This is supposed to be one of the biggest challenges and goes to the highest point on this camino. It goes over the mountain and was the original pilgrim route. It goes so high that in winter an alternative route was used. So it is suggested that if the weather is bad, you go down into the valley, then back up. Both climb about the same amount of meters high (1000), but the mountain route covers these over about 5 miles, whereas the valley route does this in under 2, so very steep. In looking at both routes, it seems to me the mountain was easier, however there are no towns, no water, no places to stop for food, sleep, etc., whereas the valley has many options
So when the weather forecast was for rain, most folks decided to take the valley route, whereas a few pilgrims, myself included decided to go up. The morning was foggy, with sporadic light rain for first couple hours, and I had climbed about 600m, when it started to rain heavy and constant. I got to the steepest part, going up another 300 meters in just over a kilometer, on loose rocks and gravel. It was hard and challenging, and I drank all my water. So I decided despite the heavy rain and no shelter, I needed to stop and refill my water from the extra water (I had some food too). I found a grove of trees with a down trunk and set up a lil respite there in the pouring rain.
After a 15 minute break and refuel, I continued on. It was dreary, but normally I like walking in the rain, but this was really challenging. I knew I was more than halfway done, but it was still tough, though I knew I could do it. I started meditating, maybe praying, when I thought of the Bible passage, that says that if you have the fait of a mustard seed, etc. I was thinking and praying, I got that and more. And I continued on another 10 minutes to arrive at the highest point, which had a marker with many things left by pilgrims, photos, wishes, stones, etc. And as I arrived there the rain stopped.I don't know if this is an answered prayer, or coincidence. But I do believe it speaks to the idea that we are not just victims of circumstances. That our actions, our feelings, our wishes, our prayers, pour attitudes contribute something to the world and what happens, For me, I am happy to receive a lil miracle.
I continued on for another ten minutes and the sun began to appear. Over the next 30-40 minutes the sun came out sporadically and warmed me a bit, and opened up the view for much of the lovely scenery. But this was not to last. As I was descending to where the two paths meet on a road, the wind picked up and the rain came back on full force. I saw a little building off to the left, and made a dash for it, and it was a refugio, a place to get out of the storm. There was much graffiti inside as I was not the first pilgrim there.
Ten minutes passed and another pilgrim arrived - and believe it or not, he was from San Angelo TX. How strange. Soon a south Korean and an Italian also arrived. I waited 30 minutes and when it seemed to lighten up, I continued on. I had about 9 miles to go. It did not lighten, it rained constant and hard for the next nine miles of climbs and descents. It was a hard day and at one point near the end, I had to wade through a six inch deep puddle about 10 feet long. My shoes and feet drenched for the last mile.
I had a strong pace for thoe last half, pushing forward hard to get to a warm dry spot and a coffee or drink. Though a hard day - maybe my hardest ever, it also was an accomplishment. One I shared with other pilgrims over dinner.
Buen Camino!
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