THE END....Day 28 Camino Primitivo (D8) O'Cadavo to Lugo- Last day

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Yesterday was my last day walking. As I've been to Santiago twice before, I hadn't planned to end there this time. 

It was a long walk,  but a rather easy one compared to other days with smaller climbs and descends. I left early and alone,  giving me a lot of time to think thru why I came and my hopes and prayers for myself and others.  

A special gift today came 150 ft after I was getting tired and needed a break, and needed water and a fountain i just passed warned water may not be potable.  I decided to stop at the next flat surface I could sit on. Another Camino miracle was just steps ahead. 

It was a donativo rest stop. Free fruit,  melon,  water and nice tables and umbrellas.  It was a true trail angel,  like most of the donativo  lodgings,  they really live the spirit of the Camino of hospitality,  giving with no expectation of return.  It's a model of pay it forward,  support other pilgrims if you can and want now or do so in your future. ❤️❤️❤️.

It's always a little sad at the end,  saying goodbye to friends you have made.  

This is my second goodbye on this trip as I transferred from one walk to another (del Norte to Primitivo). The friends shape the walk as much as the geography,  as one tends to form trail families.  Spending so much time together; walking,  stopping to eat,  arriving in early afternoon and relaxing thru the day and evening meals, you share many stories,  happy, sad, silly, tragic,  superficial and deep. 

The intimacy and friendships grow fast and being the Camino,  with many reasons people come there is an openness that often happens quickly.  I joked one time with a pilgrim friend who brought me a cerveza (beer) without lemon (radler/ cerveza con limon), that he should have known better,  thinking we had been together for days and then realizing it had only been a day and a half. 

Even after leaving the north Camino,  I continued to text and follow Camino friends there. You hear so many tales of of loss (jobs,  spouse,  death, addiction) and searching (new lives,  new work, new perspective) that it's hard not to grow close.  On this walk I got bad news in the morning that sent me spiraling through feelings and it was a Camino friend who helped me access the deep root of sadness,  by just asking me if I was OK. This ultimately led me to a level of peace that allowed me to continue and be present for the rest of my days. 

We joked that Camino might be a bit like childbirth.  That you have moments of incredible stress, exertion and pain,  that quickly after becomes overshadowed by brilliant landscape and shared triumph,  that we want to return. 

I think back to my first week,  when I thought about leaving,  struggling with the physical intensity and some loneliness. I knew I had to stick with it for at least two weeks... maybe a good lesson on life about not giving in too soon. This dissipated as my body and friendships grew stronger. No matter how strong we are,  there will always be ups and downs, that we can power thru much easier with comrades.

I came because I felt that I had been shrinking in my life,  feeling more aloof and disconnected from friends and life since covid, replacing relationships with screens and distractions. And here I found the time to go deep with long meditative walks and time to go deep socially. I found again the simple joy of playing games like cards,  that is fun and playful that also creates an atmosphere to make conversations flow. 

This is why I Camino, to step outside of my everyday life,  to create space to listen more deeply to myself without lists of to-dos, and endless distractions that waste my precious time, to challenge and feed my body with exercise,  as important as food,  that so many of us forget in the daily busy-ness/ business of our lives. 

It is easy for me to become lazy and say,  "I'll start tomorrow. " this leads me often to thinking I don't have the level of discipline I need,  but The Camino proves this wrong.  Of course, the fact that that many times I simply can't stop for miles as there is no place to do so.  But I think a deeper truth is that I simply start each day with a planned destination and simply plod on until there,  and this could happen in my world at home. 

There is a tradition on the Camino of carrying a stone (or many) for the entire walk representing a burden or struggle or wish or prayer for oneself or others. I carried stones for my struggles and past grief and regrets,  for my sons,  for my mother,  for friends who are struggling and these brought me many times to deeper feelings and tears,  that I can easily cover up and distract in my life at home. 

The Camino makes all of this easier, than something like the Appalachian Trail, as I don't need to plan for weeks just a day and I have a bed every day.  This is something really anyone can do,  as there are even tour plans that will transport your belongings between towns,  allowing you to just walk with a small pack of food and water. 

But even simpler,  I think the fact that I have only one decision to make here (what is my destination), compared to my life full of so many things to do,  like too many channels on the TV, you can't decide what to watch,  is one of the most powerful gifts of the Camino. Freeing myself to be more present and escape my life; the responsibilities,  the distractions,  the habits good and bad,  etc. 

The caminos in Spain are also wonderful because of the well marked and diverse trails and low cost.  Meals and food are quitecheap here,  whether in grocery stores or restaurants with daily menus from $11-$15 for two course meal + wine +bread + dessert.  Lodging ranged from $0 (donation which would include dinner and breakfast) to $5 - $15 for a bed in alburgue/ hostile, to $20 - $50 for private rooms or hotels.  Of course you could spend more on either of these areas. 

My estimates of costs per day:

Meals/ snacks $20

Lodging  $25

This adds up to $1350 for my one month trip.  And this is having a few expensive meals and a few nicer accommodations. 

I find much peace and lesson on the Camino.  And something I saw once in graffiti I always carry with me iamnowhere. Often when I feel a bit lost,  i am no where, the first step can be a simple shift in attitude to realizing this is just another step in a much longer Camino, I am now here.

So as I sit on a bus,  a little sad,  a little lonely,  I reflect on the laughter,  the tears; sometimes for me,  sometimes for others,  the jokes,  the games,  the beers with limon,  the struggles up and the struggles down, the frustration and the miracles of another Camino and realize, iamnowhere.

My wish for you...may you also find a way to step outside of your life. 

All Camino pics

❤️ Cowboy Pilgrim

Day 27 Camino Primitivo (D7) Fonsagrada to O'Cadavo

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Today was another challenging day,  often called the leg wrecker, multiple step climbs and long steep descents. Made more difficult by rain. 

Ed and I left early - 6am ish to try and avoid rain that was supposed to get heavier in afternoon.  

Despite rain we made good time to first open bar around 11, after a Long steep climb.. which I call Heartbreakers.

We hit rain for first few hours,  soft steady rain that on top of open hills,  combined with wind made it cold. Then it was either no rain or light drizzle. 

The bar was perfect timing after that long climb and I had one of the best tortilla bocadillos ever... an omelet on toasted bread. 

After this we skipped the last severe hill, by staying on the road for a bit,  then followed path into our stopping town. 

Time for a nap as it's raining hard now... so glad we made it early.  Later we'll hit a local bar restaurant and likely play cards with Camino friends. 

Day 26 Camino Primitivo (D6) Grandes de Salime to Fonsagrada

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Today started at 4:30am with many pilgrims getting up and heading out. I am not sure why they were heading out so early,  two theories; they wanted to get to Fonsagrada for noon mass or they were worried about finding a bed in next town... the route is becoming more populated.  Regardless it was noisy and so noisy or woke everyone up. 

I started at 7 at a nice lil cafe in town for a cafe con leche and a cake.  longer day with the usual  climbing . It's good to travel with another pilgrim,  it helps to keep your pace and conversation helps the miles move along. 

Yesterday was the last day we saw Phillip,  and we were laughing about something that happened on the big climb day...

As we were descending the peak, I was getting tired and kept stumbling over rocks. This was a bit scary as the edge was close. I was joking with Phillip about toppling over and said that if this happened my family would be asking him about my last moments and words... to which he replied, "hmm your last words were, 'One must put down the big stick to take care of the little one,' " referring to Ed who was taking a pee break. Lol I nearly fell over the side again laughing, then told Phillip to make sure he prefaced this with, Michael always the great philosopher said, one must put down the big stick....'😳 

We passed a great chorus of frogs in a small pond and it was so loud and cool, check out video and sound in pics. 

The day ended with a heart break hill of about a half mile... my heart was working hard by the top. 

Looking forward to a seafood dinner,  likely pulpo and a better rest.  Last night not only did they wake everyone up early but had some stupid snorers in room🤬

Just two to go. 

Day 25 Camino Primitivo (D5) Berducedu to Grandes de Salime

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Today's walk was a recovery day for yesterday.  Shorter but no less spectacular,  beginning with a nice climb then a beautiful walk around a valley. 

Of course followed by another big climb than a crazy 4 mile descent into another beautiful valley around a river. Then a final shot climb 3 miles to end. 

Today was a big workout for the knees,  but this Camino I have had no injuries just soreness from over use.  Just the more days to go,  so hope that continues. 

Small village here with great restaurant.  Had amazing scallop dish for lunch.  Just chilling for afternoon and evening. But I think I have been banned from card game as I was big winner yesterday. 

The three amigos lost one today,  Philip (Austrian) had to move on as he has a hard deadline for leaving Santiago.  But he's strong and tall so can easily do longer days.  In fact when we compare number of steps each day,  his is like 10000 less because of his long stride. 

I also will be leaving soon,  three more days to go.  I will send in lugo on Tuesday then had to madrid for a couple of days before returning to munich.

Buen camino!

Day 24 Cam Primitivo (D4) Campiella to Berducedo

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Great day,  challenging day. 

Yesterday afternoon and evening was a fun time, relaxing,  reading,  hanging out and playing cards,  only 40 cards in Spanish deck. Many Americans I've met now, mostly younger. 

Arose early at 6:00 and walked with some Primativo mates, Ed from UK&Spain and Phillip from Austria. Both in late 20s and about to start new jobs.  They've been good fun,  remarkable how quickly you make friends here... and form a trail family.  

Aiden,  a teacher from Virginia and the young Americans (early 20s) from Nebraska,  Georgia and Brooklyn joined us for cards and dinner. 

Today was"the toughest" climbing day on the trail,  the hospitale route climbs for the first ten miles to over 4000 feet.  The last seven were also a challenge with steep descents and more climbs. 

As we were descending the peak,  I was getting tired and kept stumbling over rocks.  This was a bit scary as the edge was close.  I was joking with Phillip about toppling over and said that if this happened my family would be asking him about my last moments and words... to which he replied,  "hmm your last words were,  'Ed put down the big stick to take care of the little one,' " referring to Ed who was taking a pee break.  Lol I nearly fell over the side again laughing,  then told him to make sure he prefaced this with,  Michael alway the great philosopher said,  one must put down the big stick....'😳

The pics are amazing from today,  including one of a tree more than a 1000 years old that had a long tradition here... people worshiped under the tree,  they held town meetings and in old times warriors wore a necklace of its poisonous fruit in case captured by another tribe to commit suicide. 

I took two selfies today one by accident when searching in my bag and one after the big climb... in which I don't look very happy. 

There was a forest for thru the region on April which you can see in much of the photos by zoning in our by the brush in the following.  Weird to walk thru this. 

Tomorrow should be a lighter day.

Day 23 Camino Primitivo (D3) Porciles to Campiello

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Today was like the take of two cities,  it was the best of times,  it was the worst of times.

While it was an incredibly beautiful walk,  I got some upsetting news just as I started the day.  And I realize now that a long beautiful walk can be incredible therapy. 

“Perhaps/ The truth depends on a walk around the lake,”

Wallace Stevens

As I began the day I was angry and frustrated to the point that I walked up a huge climb and did not even realize it until I was at the top wiping sweat from my brow.  I guess the anger fueled my steps and kept me distracted. 

But at the same time this allowed me to work of some of this energy and also to remember lessons or metaphors for the walk.... when going down,  slow down,  play attention to each step to avoid causing injury. 

These words ran thru my head as I leapt forward with multiple thoughts of action. 

Later in noticing the beauty around me,  the anger dissipated into incredible sadness and grief. Tears flowed easily from my sense of loss. The continuing astounding beauty and quiet of the walk, allowed me to move into a place of peace and leave the negative self talk.

It was from this place that I was able to find grounding again and discern some actions that I think I must take when I return home. 

All of this was aided by support and love I have at home,  allowing me to continue the walk and leave much of the stress and distress behind. ❤️❤️❤️

Today was one of the most beatific days I've had here. A challenging but beautiful day. I was able to share some of this story with fellow peregrino, which also helped the processing and to be present for the walk. 

One cool question arise from the pic below, is that the ocean that appears in background? It seems so because of perfect horizontal line,  while seeming weird because it appears as though it is above the mountains....🤔

Most curious...

While not totally at peace,  I am glad for the walk,  the support at home and my fellow pilgrims. 

Tomorrow is the BIG DAY of this Camino,  17 mile hike over a mountain. 

Courage does not always roar. Sometimes it's the quiet voice at end of day that says I will try again tomorrow. 

Day 22 Camino Primitivo (D2) Samarciellu to Porciles

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Yesterday's alburgue was an ecological alburgue and provided a vegan dinner which was exceptional.  Breakfast was a fully stocked kitchen that we could choose what we want. 

Today was another great trail walk. One of the nicest things is when you're in the forest and all you hear are sounds of nature there are no sounds of civilization. I recorded a video today to kind of share some of that. I often try to stop and just really enjoy the remoteness and nature. It's really hard in my own life to get away from the pollution of civilization more than noise than anything else.

It took some interesting pictures today wanted a cafe with the saucer that was designed to look like the coffee had already spilled, some Wildlife along the trail and some crazy home decorations.

Speaking of noise pollution yesterday I bought a packet of mints like a container of tic tac sort of and put it in my pocket they're quite nice to have when you're walking or climbing it kind of helps your thirst and I don't know but with every step it was like having a rattle in my pocket it was driving me crazy so I had to put them in my bag and of course today I wanted one LOL

I woke early at 6 and made a lot of coffee in the Italian percolator,  I think they are called military. It is really strong coffeeso I added a lill water and honey. Yesterday I made one at end of day and added salt.. not a good move. 

A lighter day but still with significant climbs.  I met a new pilgrim who is British but with Spanish family, Ed and we walked into last big town before my stopping point right around noon. He asked if it would be okay to walk together into town after I said I wanted to stop at a supermarket and grab some lunch. It's quite common to ask other pilgrims if they mind walking with you cuz some people want to walk alone.. 

So we walked into town did a little bit of snack shopping and I told him about the alburgue I was planning on going to that it had been highly recommended so he decided he was going to stop there too about 3 km before he had planned to stop. We found a nice bar got a pincho and a young Austrian walked up that he had met and joined us as well. Philip

Phillip had walked 34 or 36 km yesterday which is about 22 miles and planned on doing something similar today. He didn't realize that the big mountain pass called Hospitale is coming in 2 days and if he walked that far it would mean he would have a really short walk tomorrow or you have to walk over 40+ km which is getting closer to 25 to 28 miles, so he also decided to join us.

There was a pretty significant climb after lunch but it was really nice that it was on trails and mostly in Forest so it was shady but it was still an exhilarating climb what I call a heartbreaker luckily by now my heart is strong. When you walk with others it really does help you keep your pace and Phillip with definitely driving us on. So we arrived at the alburgue that the last night's hosts recommended 

We made a reservation close to the start of Hospitale for tomorrow and so will likely walk together for a bit.  

Tonight the alburgue is again donativo and will provide dinner and breakfast.  Such wonderful hosts providing beers and doing our laundry... all donation based.  It is such a great spirit here. And dinner smells great. 

Buen camino!

Camino Primitivo Day 1 Oviedo to Samarciellu (Days 20 & 21)

All pics

Yesterday  was really a rest day again as I took the train from Ribadesella  to Oviedo. 

Oviedo is where the Camino Primitivo starts this is a cross country Camino from the coast on the Camino Del Norte to Spain. It's called the Primitivo cuz this is the first way that pilgrims would come to Santiago they would land on boats on the coast and then they would walk the Primitivo path through nature and over mountains to get to Santiago. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful routes and one full of nature and some difficult climbs

I woke really early and was on the way by 630. I was a bit worried as the weather forecast was for rain all day thru the region and I had planned a long walk day to stay in a special donativo alburgue (free,  with all meals provided) which is also an ecological  alburgue... we actually have an outhouse. 

These donativo alburgue tend to be the best,  fewer beds,  great hosts and great food.  

It was a hard decision whether to leave the coast or to walk the Primitivo but so much of the walking on the coast seem to be on roads and very busy and I really wanted to find more natural Camino to walk on and today was great example of this.

 As soon as I got out of the city of Oviedo it immediately went into Forest paths and smaller country roads really Farm Road sometimes just two wheel paths through forest and farmland it's great scenery. I didn't think it was going to be very strenuous but then it seemed like today mostly I was either going up or going down which of course takes a lot of energy going up and your knees and Joints take the beating going down. But it was a lovely walk.

 I finished the first 12 miles out of 20 without any rain and since I left so early I'd pass several bars but they were all closed and immediately as it started to rain I Came Upon the first open bar and sat down for a bit. I checked the weather again and looked at the radar and it looked like it was going to rain and maybe even thunderstorms and throughout the whole region until later in the afternoon when I would of course be finished. So I only stayed there about 30 minutes had a grande cafe con leche, a big hot coffee which was lovely and an orange soda for some sugar and headed back out.

 Interestingly it only rain for about the next 2 miles and then the sun started to come out. And of course the sun Shone brightly at the very end of the Camino which had the longest and steepest climb of the day right before I arrived at the alburgue 

I'm still somewhat amazed at the difference in my strength and stamina especially when I'm climbing even more so when I'm climbing in Sun. It's amazing what sleep food and exercise can do so quickly and the bgrowth happens.

Day 18 & 19 Cam del Norte Nueva to Ribadesella + Break day

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It's funny how you can get close to people in such a short time but yesterday's walk was a mixed blessing, a shorter day which gives me a rest but also a day I lost connection with the group I've been traveling with for the last week as they moved on further and I'll be taking a different route. In some ways it reminds me of road trips I used to take in college where when you spend a whole bunch of time with the group of people often Friends of Friends and have some shared experiences and adventures it's easier to develop a Stronger Bond. Here we spend hours and days on end together and often end the day with a communal meal and sometimes quite often some deeper discussions come to the surface which also creates a higher level of intimacy.

I knew yesterday's walk was short and so I walked really slowly in fact I think too slowly because it made me actually feel more tired than energized but it was a lovely walk through Forest and on Trails instead of the road bringing me to a Seaside town, Ribadesella where a cave was discovered in the late 1960s that had some fascinating cave art from prehistoric times 10 to 15,000 years ago. 

I find this really fascinating and had the opportunity to take a tour of the cave and to see the art first hand that is some of the very first artworks by people. 

Not only were there images that were easily recognizable like horse and reindeer and ancestors of today's cows but also there were symbols and signs that indicated human forms and then some just Mysteries symbols that were repeated but no one really knows what the symbols man including some that look like fertility symbols and parts of the cave that resemble reproductive organs it's just a fascinating mystery and it was a wonderful experience to get to see them firsthand something I've wanted to do for a long time. Probably because one of my favorite book series is something called The Clan of the Cave Bear.

 Reading has always been something I've enjoyed and as I look back over my life it's really been an important part of helping me through difficult times and helping me to figure out what my own life philosophy is. I mean I'm not even sure I would be on the Camino if it were not for the Brazilian author Paulo Coelho whose first book on the Camino I thought was just all fiction until I read that people were actually walking it and it became something on my bucket list that I waited more than 20 years to ever do. And now I'm on number 5.

So while yesterday I had a short walk and a nice relaxing time in the city today I got to go and see the cave art and had lots of free time and created some silly videos (here with south African friends Jessie) which are also in the pictures linked above. Plan on treating myself to some good seafood for dinner as I'm about to head Inland for the next part of my Camino.

I've been following the Camino Del Norte so far which is all along the coast and I've gone about halfway. This Camino still continues along the coast and then wraps around and heads down to Santiago. Tomorrow I move ahead to a city called Oviedo which cuts across the interior of the country for the Camino Primitivo which is a much more Rural and nature type of hike and it's quite challenging with a lot more climbing. But I shouldn't have much time left probably about 10 days of hiking before I head back to friends in Germany for an extended vacation.

Day 17 Cam del Norte Pendueles to Nueva

 Today's pics

I actually did 19.5 miles,  once again i forgot to turn my app on for the first three miles.

I had planned on doing a shorter day today maybe around 12 miles but my current Camino family wanted to go further and shamed me into walking 20 miles today. I thought I had an out when there weren't enough bed so I volunteered to be the one without a bed there and that I would find my own but they wanted me to be in the town that they're staying at which is quite sweet when you think about it.

It's one of the things that happens on these Trails just like it does on the Appalachian Trail that you sort of develop relationships and friendships and acquaintances along the way. For the past 5 days I've been walking with the group of about five to seven people on and off. There's two women from the Netherlands one from Austria another from the Czech Republic a guy from Belgium and a couple French people. It's nice to travel with people over a few days you get to know them a little bit better especially when over dinner together to talk goes a little bit deeper as it did last night around our albergue table.

 It's like Dolly Parton says laughter through tears is her favorite emotion and that's certainly happened last night around the table. It's interesting to see the many reasons that people come to the Camino to find some Solitude and to find some grounding in their life there were multiple cases of people looking to change the way they live maybe the way they work grieving children that had passed, grieving spouses and Friends that had passed and other reasons.

Even the lady that runs the alburgue just returned the day before from her father's death in the Netherlands. It's interesting how it can go deep and light I guess that's kind of like life.  We are all searching for something and here it's just brought more to the surface and maybe people are more willing to share with strangers who have become friends or maybe we're just tired after a Long Day's walk in a little bit too much wine🤔🤪

Despite it being a long walk of 20 miles it was a lovely walk finally after days of almost all Street walking we had mostly Trails this morning and a light rain. I love walking in the rain as long as I'm not wearing a poncho I don't know what the hell those things are for I've only used one on the first walk and it's like being in a sauna the outside soaking wet the inside you're soaking wet and you're burning up. Since then I just carry an umbrella I'm much happier and I have a cover for my backpack when it rains.

Most of today was on trails that ran through valleys and forests and down to the beach and then back in land a bit through farmland and we hit a nice size city and just before lunch and I was able to get a really nice sandwich and refueled in the middle of the day to continue on. I actually knew where there were buses along the way in case I wanted to stop walking I'm to really have a rest day but it was a lovely day the walking wasn't too severe as far as Hills or go but the rest of the day was a lot on pavement which really tires out your feet. I did have the best brake spots today several times I was able to break right on the beach I have a drink and relax for 15 to 30 minutes before going on.

So another day is gone and another Journey finished and since I volunteered to give up my bed in the small albergue I decided to treat myself to a four-star hotel which is Major in Europe and the room was only $47.

 I actually felt a little embarrassed walking into it as pilgrims were walking by thinking what the hell is he doing. I imagine maybe even the reception thought that too I don't know if it's policy to take a guess to their room but she took me to my room on the second floor but she opted not to ride the elevator with me?? I'm not sure if it was because I was stinky or that's just their policy. Anyway off to get a cerveza con limo then a little bit later Pilgrim mail right across the street for 12 bucks.

I only have one or two days left to decide whether I'm going to continue on the Camino Del Norte which continues along the North Coast or if I'm going to take the Camino Primitivo which Bears off Inland and is much more of a nature trail. I'm kind of leaning towards the nature trail for getting off roads but the Food and Seafood especially has been so good on the Norte I'm wondering if I want to stay and continue.🤔

Buenos Noches!