Camino Primitivo Day 1 Oviedo to Samarciellu (Days 20 & 21)

All pics

Yesterday  was really a rest day again as I took the train from Ribadesella  to Oviedo. 

Oviedo is where the Camino Primitivo starts this is a cross country Camino from the coast on the Camino Del Norte to Spain. It's called the Primitivo cuz this is the first way that pilgrims would come to Santiago they would land on boats on the coast and then they would walk the Primitivo path through nature and over mountains to get to Santiago. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful routes and one full of nature and some difficult climbs

I woke really early and was on the way by 630. I was a bit worried as the weather forecast was for rain all day thru the region and I had planned a long walk day to stay in a special donativo alburgue (free,  with all meals provided) which is also an ecological  alburgue... we actually have an outhouse. 

These donativo alburgue tend to be the best,  fewer beds,  great hosts and great food.  

It was a hard decision whether to leave the coast or to walk the Primitivo but so much of the walking on the coast seem to be on roads and very busy and I really wanted to find more natural Camino to walk on and today was great example of this.

 As soon as I got out of the city of Oviedo it immediately went into Forest paths and smaller country roads really Farm Road sometimes just two wheel paths through forest and farmland it's great scenery. I didn't think it was going to be very strenuous but then it seemed like today mostly I was either going up or going down which of course takes a lot of energy going up and your knees and Joints take the beating going down. But it was a lovely walk.

 I finished the first 12 miles out of 20 without any rain and since I left so early I'd pass several bars but they were all closed and immediately as it started to rain I Came Upon the first open bar and sat down for a bit. I checked the weather again and looked at the radar and it looked like it was going to rain and maybe even thunderstorms and throughout the whole region until later in the afternoon when I would of course be finished. So I only stayed there about 30 minutes had a grande cafe con leche, a big hot coffee which was lovely and an orange soda for some sugar and headed back out.

 Interestingly it only rain for about the next 2 miles and then the sun started to come out. And of course the sun Shone brightly at the very end of the Camino which had the longest and steepest climb of the day right before I arrived at the alburgue 

I'm still somewhat amazed at the difference in my strength and stamina especially when I'm climbing even more so when I'm climbing in Sun. It's amazing what sleep food and exercise can do so quickly and the bgrowth happens.

Day 18 & 19 Cam del Norte Nueva to Ribadesella + Break day

 Pictures

It's funny how you can get close to people in such a short time but yesterday's walk was a mixed blessing, a shorter day which gives me a rest but also a day I lost connection with the group I've been traveling with for the last week as they moved on further and I'll be taking a different route. In some ways it reminds me of road trips I used to take in college where when you spend a whole bunch of time with the group of people often Friends of Friends and have some shared experiences and adventures it's easier to develop a Stronger Bond. Here we spend hours and days on end together and often end the day with a communal meal and sometimes quite often some deeper discussions come to the surface which also creates a higher level of intimacy.

I knew yesterday's walk was short and so I walked really slowly in fact I think too slowly because it made me actually feel more tired than energized but it was a lovely walk through Forest and on Trails instead of the road bringing me to a Seaside town, Ribadesella where a cave was discovered in the late 1960s that had some fascinating cave art from prehistoric times 10 to 15,000 years ago. 

I find this really fascinating and had the opportunity to take a tour of the cave and to see the art first hand that is some of the very first artworks by people. 

Not only were there images that were easily recognizable like horse and reindeer and ancestors of today's cows but also there were symbols and signs that indicated human forms and then some just Mysteries symbols that were repeated but no one really knows what the symbols man including some that look like fertility symbols and parts of the cave that resemble reproductive organs it's just a fascinating mystery and it was a wonderful experience to get to see them firsthand something I've wanted to do for a long time. Probably because one of my favorite book series is something called The Clan of the Cave Bear.

 Reading has always been something I've enjoyed and as I look back over my life it's really been an important part of helping me through difficult times and helping me to figure out what my own life philosophy is. I mean I'm not even sure I would be on the Camino if it were not for the Brazilian author Paulo Coelho whose first book on the Camino I thought was just all fiction until I read that people were actually walking it and it became something on my bucket list that I waited more than 20 years to ever do. And now I'm on number 5.

So while yesterday I had a short walk and a nice relaxing time in the city today I got to go and see the cave art and had lots of free time and created some silly videos (here with south African friends Jessie) which are also in the pictures linked above. Plan on treating myself to some good seafood for dinner as I'm about to head Inland for the next part of my Camino.

I've been following the Camino Del Norte so far which is all along the coast and I've gone about halfway. This Camino still continues along the coast and then wraps around and heads down to Santiago. Tomorrow I move ahead to a city called Oviedo which cuts across the interior of the country for the Camino Primitivo which is a much more Rural and nature type of hike and it's quite challenging with a lot more climbing. But I shouldn't have much time left probably about 10 days of hiking before I head back to friends in Germany for an extended vacation.

Day 17 Cam del Norte Pendueles to Nueva

 Today's pics

I actually did 19.5 miles,  once again i forgot to turn my app on for the first three miles.

I had planned on doing a shorter day today maybe around 12 miles but my current Camino family wanted to go further and shamed me into walking 20 miles today. I thought I had an out when there weren't enough bed so I volunteered to be the one without a bed there and that I would find my own but they wanted me to be in the town that they're staying at which is quite sweet when you think about it.

It's one of the things that happens on these Trails just like it does on the Appalachian Trail that you sort of develop relationships and friendships and acquaintances along the way. For the past 5 days I've been walking with the group of about five to seven people on and off. There's two women from the Netherlands one from Austria another from the Czech Republic a guy from Belgium and a couple French people. It's nice to travel with people over a few days you get to know them a little bit better especially when over dinner together to talk goes a little bit deeper as it did last night around our albergue table.

 It's like Dolly Parton says laughter through tears is her favorite emotion and that's certainly happened last night around the table. It's interesting to see the many reasons that people come to the Camino to find some Solitude and to find some grounding in their life there were multiple cases of people looking to change the way they live maybe the way they work grieving children that had passed, grieving spouses and Friends that had passed and other reasons.

Even the lady that runs the alburgue just returned the day before from her father's death in the Netherlands. It's interesting how it can go deep and light I guess that's kind of like life.  We are all searching for something and here it's just brought more to the surface and maybe people are more willing to share with strangers who have become friends or maybe we're just tired after a Long Day's walk in a little bit too much wine🤔🤪

Despite it being a long walk of 20 miles it was a lovely walk finally after days of almost all Street walking we had mostly Trails this morning and a light rain. I love walking in the rain as long as I'm not wearing a poncho I don't know what the hell those things are for I've only used one on the first walk and it's like being in a sauna the outside soaking wet the inside you're soaking wet and you're burning up. Since then I just carry an umbrella I'm much happier and I have a cover for my backpack when it rains.

Most of today was on trails that ran through valleys and forests and down to the beach and then back in land a bit through farmland and we hit a nice size city and just before lunch and I was able to get a really nice sandwich and refueled in the middle of the day to continue on. I actually knew where there were buses along the way in case I wanted to stop walking I'm to really have a rest day but it was a lovely day the walking wasn't too severe as far as Hills or go but the rest of the day was a lot on pavement which really tires out your feet. I did have the best brake spots today several times I was able to break right on the beach I have a drink and relax for 15 to 30 minutes before going on.

So another day is gone and another Journey finished and since I volunteered to give up my bed in the small albergue I decided to treat myself to a four-star hotel which is Major in Europe and the room was only $47.

 I actually felt a little embarrassed walking into it as pilgrims were walking by thinking what the hell is he doing. I imagine maybe even the reception thought that too I don't know if it's policy to take a guess to their room but she took me to my room on the second floor but she opted not to ride the elevator with me?? I'm not sure if it was because I was stinky or that's just their policy. Anyway off to get a cerveza con limo then a little bit later Pilgrim mail right across the street for 12 bucks.

I only have one or two days left to decide whether I'm going to continue on the Camino Del Norte which continues along the North Coast or if I'm going to take the Camino Primitivo which Bears off Inland and is much more of a nature trail. I'm kind of leaning towards the nature trail for getting off roads but the Food and Seafood especially has been so good on the Norte I'm wondering if I want to stay and continue.🤔

Buenos Noches!

Day 15 & 16 Caborredondo to San Vincente to Pendueles

Day 15 pics

It was a wonderful evening in the alburgue with a hostess,  Giulia who truly embodies the Camino spirit.  She washed our clothes, prepared dinner and was delightful.  She said it was her gift and that it was on to leaven nothing,  which I accidently did do... or not do.  I left early and forgot to make a donation.

Layer I texted her to find out how to send to her and she said give it to next alburgue or help Simone on the way.  😲 a rare qualityin today's world. 

The day was long hilly and a pretty walk ending with a walk along the beach. I also stayed at really fast pace,  not sure why but I seem to have forgot lessons from week one ... slow a and steady.  

Ending in San Vincente we stayed in the local alburgue which had 38 people in two rooms... not something for everyone,  and sometimes hard for me,  but good spirit and meeting tons of people and also reconnecting with others from along the way.  Sleeping can be difficult (chances are high for loud snorers in such a big grouping.

Tomorrow staying in small family type alburgue... only 10 beds 

Day 16 pics

Another long one but with a sure and stay pace arrived at the alburgue by 2, so had a relaxing afternoon. 

Was a another long day and now seem to be traveling with a pod. It's not unusual to travel together for weeks with folks and go a lill deeper

Tonight's alburgue is also top notch and"free" including dinner and breakfast.  I already put something in the box., to be sure not to repeat my last mistake. 

The house cat has decided I'm the first she sleeps with or at least naps with. 

Great dinner,  great stories and another nice day on the Camino

Day 14 Cam del Norte Boo to Caborredondo

 Today's pics

Today was a great day, so much so that I decided to change my name to the the name of the village I ended in,  Caborredondo. And whenever you say it you should have this background music.

Last nights alburgue in Boo was wonderful, great place,  great food,  wonderful pilgrim company. 

Today was one of my strongest walking days,  even though many hills and sun,  I didn't really notice much of a change when climbing and finished strong. 

Started with a short train ride as you are no longer able to walk along tracks and over train Bridge... think the scene in Stand by Me.

I walked with a Dutch lady,  who became my pace horse... each helping the other stay strong and steady.  As we finished up the day with the last three miles to Caborredondo, it became our inside joke that this was my new name and this helped us finish strong even with big hills at end. 

Came across this weird snail phenomenon where they were congregating on posts and electric lines.  Not sure why🤔

Walked through beautiful ancient city, Saltillo del Mar, but a bit touristy now,  but still beautiful. 

The downside was the entire way was on paved roads though some with nice views. This tends to help the climbing (not so steep), but is hard on the feet. 

By chance, got the last bed in the alburgue here which is the family home of a Swiss man and Italian lady who really embody the spirit of the Camino.  Lovely home with dinner,  breakfast included and they also washed All our clothes! 😲 All for free with a non descript donation box. 

The reviews are stupendous and I look forward to dinner and another good walk tomorrow. 

Ciao from Caborredondo!

Day 13 Cam del Norte Playa de San Juan to Boo de Pielagos

 Today's Pics

Murphys law day

Today was intended to be a medium walk continuing along the coast back to main Camino in Boo, about 8 - 13 miles,  but The Way had other plans. 

Several thoughts come to mind...

Murphys law

Be careful what you wish for

Things are not always as they seem 

The best laid plans often go awry

The Way always provides...

I woke early to another lovely sunrise and planned to relax and leave two hours later than normal (7am) as my phone indicated thecafe bar across the street opened at 9.

So an enjoyable morning just reading and relaxing.  When I left the bar was still not open,  but they had a soda machine outside so I bought an energy water with naranja juice in it. (Best laid plans...)

I began a nice climb to the coast path.  A lovely walk quickly turned awry,  as I took a left along a wider path which was the wrong one. I continued for a bit but was getting further from the main path. Being unsure where it would lead,  I made several attempts to cross field of wild flowers with some evergreen shrub type plants with stickers.  Each time I tried I would get close but then think maybe there is no path as this route is not heavily traveled.  It's an alternative path much longer along the coast.  

As the path I was on kept getting further away I decided I really needed to get back to the path and again attempted to cross a now wider field,  with more of these evergreen shrubs and a few blackberry looking plants with big stickers.  Even though warm here I always wear hiking pants not shorts because of plants like these, as often the path is narrow all along the Camino. 

This field was wide and on an incline down.  My Pilgrim GPS looked like the main path was just 50 - 70 feet away, so I decided to try again and not give up until there.  This time the flowers and plants and shrubs were thicker but still only about 2 - 3 feet tall but with pants and stick I could get over or thru but with just a bit more difficulty,  often my stick getting stuck on a plant. 

As I got closer,  I could finally see the path just another 20 feet ahead,  even as the shrubs were seemingly thicker.  I was basically high stepping to get on top of the shrubs and stickers, each step landing om a stickery cushion of plants. I was sweating with the extra effort but seeing the path goaded me on,  plus the thought of climbing back the way I came thru the dense plants, really left little alternative. 

I took a step and where the cushion should have become firm,  was not.  I had stepped into a small ravine about 2 feet deeper,  likely a path cut by water runoff.  I went face first into the ravine,  twisting my sore ankle, but cushioned somewhat by the sticky plants.  The sight line as i trapsed thru jungle made it look like one solid terra, As all the plants were the same height the ravine was camouflaged. (Things are not always as they seem).

 I was stuck in more ways than one.  The plants scratched up my arms and being in a more horizontal position with my pack on top pushing me down,  i found it difficult to right myself and then even more difficult to get out of ravine as I did not want to crawl on my hands with all the stickers.  

My stick helped me to right myself and then plant one foot really high and then I was able to step out. Then carefully testing the depth moved away from the ravine and made it to the path.  Luckily I also had an antiseptic wipe from a past united airlines flight which I washed the scratches on my arms... nothing major.  I always save these wipes and throw in my backpack for the next Camino. 

About 30 minutes later I realized my sleeping bag was gone,  it had obviously fallen off in the ravine,  as it was strapped to the back of my pack. This morning was the first time i did not slide the strap thru the sleeping bag string and thought,  i am not going to redo (10 second job) as surely i would notice if it slipped out 🙄.

 Weirdly,  I was just talking the day before about how I had only used it twice in the past two weeks (most alburgue provided sheets and blankets) and in future would not bring it,  instead just bring a sleep bag liner- sort of like a pillowcase shaped sheet used inside of bags. It made my pack heavier and worse bulkier and i even mentioned i wish i could get rid of it.  I knew I had little to no chance of finding the ravine as I would not remember where I entered path and plus had no desire to go back into the jungle. (Be careful what you wish for).

I worried how I would find something to replace as most towns are small and wondered if I should deviate route to go to a bigger city a little off the Camino. 

As I neared the next town,  I decided to deviate from the coastal path and take a more direct street route to Boo, to get back on main Camino.  Luckily walking on more solid surface,  my twisted ankle was not injured and the gentle walk stretched the tendons so all seemed well. 

Coming to an intermediate town I stopped at my first bar of day and had a lovely and well needed Cafe con Leche and yummy half BLET sandwich (blt with egg). 

Still feeling a little off after the morning adventure,  I headed to Boo worrying about my need for bedding. 

I came upon a tiny supermercado on the outskirts of town and wanted to replenish my fruit.  Love the peaches here and always a banana. 

 The outside was deceiving, as inside the store was deep and run by Asians,  who tend to have markets more like lill Walmarts. There was a section that had sheets and sofa blankets for about$18. But then I saw a small beach blanket,  much cuter and cheaper $7. So bedding problem solved.( The Way always provides).

I went across the street to a shady spot to pack my new purchases and was about to leave when I realized I left my stick in the supermarket.... again!!! Luckily just had to cross street to find. 

I continued to Boo along a busier street but it actually was rather nice, obviously frequently walked as it had little parks and ocean overlooks every 1/2 mile. 

I decided to just get to the alburgue in Boo and call it a day.  Arriving here found a beautiful alburgue with a brand new cafe just opened last month.

It seems the Way wants me to have a lighter pack and a real rest day!!!

Courage does not always roar  sometimes it is a quiet voice at the end of the day that says I will try again tomorrow. 

Buen camino!

Day 12 Cam del Norte Guemas to Playa San Juan

 Today's pics

You need to add an hour and two miles to my walk as I forgot to turn on until an hour into the day

I didn't expect to do another long day... but did well and though tired had no mishaps like two days ago. 

I just agreed to walk with a south African woman along the coast to the place im staying and did not think it was going to be so far. 

But it does prove that I'm definitely stronger. 

Lovely night last night in an alburgue that converted his great grandparents family house (with cows living on first floor and people above - not uncommon in Europe in  19/ early 20 century). 

Today's walk was meant to be short and then chill on the beach...oops. so instead of walking to hotel,  I took the long way along the coast.... the really long way. 

Was so glad to finally arrive at another beautiful place... this time another lill apartment on the ocean. 

This Sunday morning started with a sublime walk on the coast,  reminding me that the most beautiful cathedrals are really the natural ones. It really reminded me to slow down,  enjoy the wonder,  and why I love the caminos.  I just had to stop while listening to chill music and fully feel the Gratitude. 

While sitting on top of the mountain just chilling this Pilgrim came by that I've been hearing about who's got a little wagon and a dog and he's walking the whole way to Santiago with both and the wagon is so when the dog gets tired he puts him in it. You definitely want to check out that picture.

Followed by a ferry to santander.  From there just a short walk to my hotel.... that changed when a new friend,  Jessie suggested we walk the coast some more. 

Tired but strong. 

Buen camino