On the Road Again - Camino Santiago - LePuy Route

Note: External links are highlighted in green.

About 20 years ago, I read a book about the Camino Santiago - the ancient pilgrimage to Santiago de la Compestella - that has  such a great historical and spiritual legacy - and knew this was a journey/ challenge I wanted to take. In 2009, I got such an opportunity. Here is a short music video of my travels and thoughts along the Camino Santiago. It was one of the greatest adventures of my life and inspired me to continually seek out adventure in my life and work.

In 2014, I returned to the road on the Via Francigena,a pilgrimmage of 1200 miles from London to Rome. I walked the second two-thirds of this walk from besancon, France, over the Alps and onto Rome and captured my stories and pictures in a blog. This time two months of adventure and misadventure in the wonderful world of Italy.

In two weeks, I leave to begin my third adventure - back on the Camino Santiago, but beginning 500 miles before my starting point of 2009 - traveling along the Le Puy Route.I plan to walk from outside of LePuy to Roncevalles Spain, my last day will be retracing my first day of my first pilgrimmage - over the Pyrenees Mountains and into Spain. From there, I will travel to a well deserved month's rest in Munich.

I find these trips full of adventure, weird coincidences (synchronicity), the making of new friends, a quiet inward journey and lessons that I think we can only get by "turning off" our normal world and walking into the unknown.

And the synchronicity began even before I thought to do this trip. A pilgrim I met along the via francigena, Sigrid, contacted me in March and asked me to join her on this trip. I said I'd think about it, and within an hour, a school I teach at called and asked me if I could teach a class this spring that would end in May. The payment for this course covered my plane ticket - so I felt this was good confirmation to go...and so I'm off - arriving in LePuy June 2nd.

Care to join me for this journey? Buen Camino!

DAY 48: 5 July: La Storta to Roma (22km - 13 miles - 673 total)

ARRIVA - ARRIVA - mia ultima gioni a pelligrino 
(I have arrived - my last day as a pilgrim)!!!

Last night I had a lil adventure finding dinner. Believe it or not, I ate at McDonalds - its the homesickness thing. I saw a sign coming into LaStorta indicating it was 3 minutes away, and saw a similar sign right in front of my Ostello,. But the amusing part is it took me about an hour or so to find it and an extra mile of walking as I kept going back and forth....funny how I can walk across part of a continent, but cant find McDonalds -  which ended up being on the same road as my Ostello!!!!

I started the day early as is my custom and took a photo before I left - though in one I already look tired - perhaps as I did not have my prima colazione (breakfast - but more importantly coffe yet!). I also took a pic of my normal Italian breakfast (cappucino and croissant with crema). The walk this morning had some surprisingly lovely bits before I hit the city, then it was a bit overwhelming, but easy to follow. I walked through a lovely forested area, then on top of a hill overlooking all of Rome.

I wanted to be really present this morning, so I put on a selection of favorite songs. As I neared the end of my journey, my emotions came bubbling forth and one of the things that age has given me is recognizing that allowing these to come forth and not stifle them is a tremendous gift to me. So I focused on no one, and just let the tears and emotion come forth.

As I rounded the corner for the PORTO ANGELICA - the song BE STILL (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHlbnNUHQGI) came on which just touched my heart even more and allowed my gratitude for this adventure to overflow. I felt like a salmon going up stream to get thru the porto as crowds were walking at me. I made no eye contact and just let my eyes tear up and recall the challenges and triumphs of this journey.

But even more amazing is that as I walked thru the port and into St Peters Square, the song that helped me get up that damn mountain came on - "Can't Give Up Now" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37PCbh9KppA). This song is like 5 minutes long and I just stood in the center of St Peters Square and cried and laughed and snotted and all....it was a wonderful celebration of this journey and my adventure thru all of life. It was so perfectly timed, that it makes me believe in somthing bigger than me that has walked with me every step......

At the end of the song, I found the stones I carried the entire journey (its a pilgrim thing - about letting go of the burdens you carry or something like this) and the stones I carried for one of my greatest mentors in life - my first boss after college, Pam Watson, who taught me so much about what it means to be a leader and this does not stop us from being human and kind and ourselves....I would carry a BOULDER FOR HER!!! So with prayers for me and Pam, I placed my stones and her's near the center tower in St Peters Square - except for the one with the heart - this I bring home to Pam!

The line to visit the Basilica of St Peter was about a 1/4 mile long, but for Pilgrims, we get to go around back so to speak. After my rucksack was scanned (like the airport), I was taken in  a back gate passed thru the Swiss Guard and then led into a private office, where I took a quick selfie and was worried I might get arrested - so I did it quick. Then I received my official Testimonium and my stamp. I was hoping to get in to the Basilica too, but this did not happen.

Upon leaving, I went to find my hotel -- amusingly this took me almost as long as to get to Rome...its a huge and confusing town. I have just arrived at the hotel - with computers and my own room and bath.

It has been an amazing journey - one I will never forget....in a couple of days, I will write one more time...a reflection of this, but for now...a shower, a nap, some trendy (and NON STINKY) clothes and a lil exploration.

Ciao!

DAY 47: Juy 4: Campignola di Roma to La Storta (28km - 17 m - 660 total)

I feel like I am in Rome already - there is much more going on here as LaStorta is on one of the main highways into Roma, so really is like a suburb. In fact, I walked right past it and had to back track as there was no clear indication of a town, but I get ahead of myself....

Yesterday was typical italian Pelligrino day for me. After arriving in town and finding Ostello, a community service building - not so nice, but sfficed. I walked about town, found internet, updated blog, had a lil refreshment, a lil nap back into town for cena (dinner - pronounced Chain-a), I finished my Henry James Book (Turning of the Screw) and realized I am not a fan of Henry James, but love his brother William James, one of Americas foremost philosphers of his age. He also wrote one of the first scientific journal on psychology, but I digress.

I awoke this morning with more bites (many), and ths has been gong on for the last few days. If they are mosquito bites, then the mosquitos near rome are quiet and stealth - much like the pickpockets Rome is famous for....I will be holding tight to my wallet and my bag!!!! My fear is that they are bed bugs I have picked up along the way and may now live in my sleeping bag - so no more sleeping bag...luckily tonight is my last night in Ostello...4 star hotel in Roma for Saturday and Sunday night!

The walk today was long and difficult - mainly due to a stretch of 8 miles with no services and little shade and today was hot and still - very little breeze. But there were many lovely parts - including having to cross a river and a tunnel thru the forest. The morning walk started with a 2 mile climb, then I thought I might bypass more climbs by sticking to the road. This I did, but added another 2
miles to my day....AAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!

After this LONG short-cut, I decided to stick to the path and follow the guide and waymarks. It was more climbs, but some great views and occassional shade. In the middle of the 8-mle stretch, I passed a model airplane club's flying spot, which had a covered area and some chairs, so with the coke zero I brought along, I made my own cafe. Smart thnking.

The end of the 8 mile stretch wasa mile walk up. By this time my water was depleted - only about 1/4 bottle left and very warm. When I reached the top I was spent -  looked at my hands and my fingers were wrinkled from slight dehydration and I was spent (with still 3 more miles to go). I desprately needed a shady spot to sit and at this point there is a suggestion to deviate from the route and climb a hill to see a church (Are you fricking kidding me?!?), but I noticed in that direction was some stairs in the shade and I thought perfect - when I got to the stairs - about 50 feet away and up - I realized this was the church with a lovely shaded square, benches - and even better a fountain...and its water was SO COLD. PILGRIM RESCUE. I sat - drank a LITER of COLD water and had an orange. 3 miles to go.


As I started to walk, back in the sun, I realized I was better, but still fatiqued, so I thought I would listen to music to hopefully incentivize me. It helped a little, then my friend from Dallas who is a singer song-writer, Kerri Arrista came on. Kerri's song "Walk Beside Me" (which is really called Michael's song - because she wrote it as an assignment for a class I led in creativity - how we met - but I digress again). Check out Kerri's song with my thoughts and pics of my last pilgrimage at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP2-SCh2B0Y.

 When Kerri's song came on, I happened to look up and a house about 100 yards in front of me had the laundry out and flapping in the wind was a Hello Kitty towel - Kerri is a HUGE Hello Kitty Fan. And this little bit of connection inspired me and charged me. It is amazing the power of the mind. I suddenly was full of energy - that led to me realizing how close I am, how far I have come and I kid you not, I DANCED the last 3. Actually I danced the last 3.25, as I was so busy dancing that I walked right past the town.

Turn around, find a bar, have a celebratory Pelligrino Lemon (an Italian Lemon malt drink) much more refreshing than beer. Got directions to the Ostello and was happy to find a park-like Oasis in this busy lil town. I took a shower and fell dead asleep fr an hour as my head hit the pillow.  So now I am up for the evening, and though you have seen the Plgrim Mikelly many times, I thought I would show you the new, stylish touristy version! I am saving the REAL CHIC stuff for Roma...




Finally as I was walking to Internet, I saw this sign for Roma - the lil circle means the "center"....

NEXT STOP ROMA and the Vatican!

OBSERVATION: Convenience over Community?

From my blogs, you probably have gotten the sense that the Italy I have grown fond of is more in smaller and medium villages and cities, than in the larger ones and that I have become fascinated by the social nature of the people and how their architecture and business supports this (piazzas, fountains, cafes, etc.). And I wonder if we have traded convenience for connection and community.

When you walk through most villages, you pass small shops - paniteria (bakery), cafes, bars, gelateria (ice cream - my favorite), macileria (sp? - butcher), alimentaria (gen grocer), tabacherie (misc & bus tickets), among others. None is overly busy, though sometimes about 4:30 the pharmacia seems to always get a line. But even the nature of businesses being locally run and owned contributes to supporting this social life.

I remember as a young boy in the early 70's, my hometown of less than 500 had two general - grocery stores - Buckworths (which also had a meat dept- butcher in the back) and Berthas. I loved buckworths, because they had a large glass case that was the checkout counter full of candy. To my eyes this was the world and I loved going in there and always hoped my mom or dad would relent and allow me one - most times they did (as I was always better behaved than my siblings!) I also remember a boyhood friend, Earl Pierce, who I thought was the luckiest guy in the world as he lived just 2 blocks from Buckworths and could go there EVERYDAY, while we lived so far away in the country (about a mile - funny how a mile aint so much to me right now!!!).

Berthas is a little store, I always remember as no one ever being in there, and Miss Bertha being an ancient large woman. She had candy, but not quite the display of Buckworths. I remember my mom and dad each on their own stopping at Berthas to buy bread or milk or something - whether we needed it or not, not because they are SOCIALISTS, but because they were Bertha's NEIGHBOR and friend and wanted to support her as much as they could.

In the 1960's, my grandfather who was a farmer and who sold fish out of his truck on  Saturday mornings to make ends meet, somehow found the capital and drive to open his own place - Bailey's Little Market - which was a general store that also carried fish and seafood (and in winter muskrats and coons). I remeber this store fondly - buying a quarters worth of candy and getting a dime in change from my grandpa. I see him sitting in the back of the store with four or five older men, just hanging about. By the 80's the store had largely changed into a seafood market and restaurant, not so much hanging out.

All of those memories of mine are now history - none exist anymore, and a Walmart Supercenter is now about 5 miles away.  When I walk thru Italy, I see community, and sturcutres that support community, and I see my past and what I believe is largely the past of the USA. When I sit in a cafe in the evening, I am alone usually - and it feels lonely. And I think how wonderful if my town at home was like this - whenever it was evening, I could just stroll out and bump into friends and family and catch up. But its not so easy now...ever tried to find something (let alone someone) in a Walmart?

There's an old story that goes if you put a frog in boiling water, he jumps out immediately, but if you put him in cool water and slowly heat it, he relaxes and then gets cooked. I feel sad, because I do think in someways, we are COOKED. And as I walked thru Italy's towns and villages - all too often I see new SUPERMERCARDOS (Coop, Conrad, Gulliver) popping up, and I hope that 50 years from now an Italian boy is not writing of his Bertha!

DAYS 45 - 46: Viterbo - Campagnano di Roma (33km - 20 miles - 643 Total)

Tuesday I passed the 100KM (60 miles) Marker for Rome in Montefisciano.





WED. JULY 2: Viterbo to Sutri: Mini Vacation:
Last night, Once again I fell in love with the big city at night. And Viterbo is extra special because being a fortified city (walled), the old city is really cut off from the new part. But true to form wondering around in the afternoon, the city piazzas and cafes are largely vacant. Most shops are closed from 1 - 4pm, and everyone  does something...you know I am not really sure what they do...I would guess rest for the evening. But about 4:30, people start reappearing first the shoppers, then the cafe and restaurant goers, though dinner is NEVER before 7:00 and really not before 8:00. The other cool thing about Vitterbo is it is a frickin maze of streets in the old part, I felt like I was a rat in an experiment and got lost multiple times.

Today, I had the choice of a VERY LOONG DAY (24 miles) with an unmarked path and two very different directions from Ostellos or take the train out of the city and do a shorter walk. I took the vacation option and did a lil shopping before I left. I sort of have two identities here. When I walk into town, I am an oddity and most people stare a little. They know I am a pilgrim, but I am this hodge-podge of images that stick out - specifically my bright shirt, cowboy hat and "bastillion" (walking stick that I picked up in the forest on my first days of walking). One I get to the Ostello and shower, I become the TOURIST, again sticking out a little less, as I have no street clothes. So today, I picked up a trendy pair of shorts and a shirt - that I think make me belend a lil more...and these become my souvenirs.

So after shopping (and almost going to McDonalds - homesick), I took the train out of the city and then walked about 10 miles to Sutri, another hilltop city - the benefit though I realize is the nights are cooler and the views better. I stayed in an Ostello run by nuns and interestingly the entire transactions were done at the drive up nun window - so to speak. I had to speak to the nun through an enclosure and exchange money and my credentiale through a window that had like a rolling barrel - I judge the precursor to drive thru banking. I was given a private "cell" - a small room which is normally the space for a nun or monk. It was very nice.

As the Ostello did not open til 3:30 and I arrived about 1:00, I had a nice salad for lunch at a restaurant with a wonderful terrace overlooking the mountains and valleys. I later returned for a pizza for dinner and watched the sun set. BTW PIZZA IS THE ITALIAN THING. Pizza is to Italy what burgers are to the USA. Everytown has multiple pizzerias and they are all like the ones at the beach - ultra thin crust. After lunch I sat in the central piazza - largely vacant and read awhile - just finished GREAT EXPECTATIONS - loved it (and losing the 2 lbs from my pack). Later in the evening when I came out, of course the square is full. I love these social people and wish we had some of their habits....




THURS JULY 3: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma:
Despite being sluggish this morning, I seemed to get my Pilgrim feet back - or rather my pilgrim mindset and throughout was present for the morning walk. Over the past week or two, I have either been focused on getting to Rome - losing sight of the journey for the focus on the destination or just homesick and ready to finish - more focused on counting miles or days, than paying attention to THE DAY or MOMENT. Some days, my adventure felt more like a job than a vacation. I think both these sentiments are normal in all our lives, and for me the key was to give myself a break - either an actual break (day on beach; shopping; a train or bus day; etc.) or just a break and let me mentally whine for awhile. I think this is equally important to do in our "REAL" lives - pay attention to when our stress is high or our routine has become too routine, and give ourselves a break.

The morning was lovely and the paths were not overly strenuous, and before i realized it I had walked over 10km (6 miles) in under 2 hours - which amazes me as I felt I was "strolling" at a relaxed pace, yet this is one of my quickest rates. I walked between two olive orchards, and loved how the owners planted flowers sporatically along the fence line as well. And so I rewarded myself with a cream-filled croissant and a second cappucino!

Not doing a long day - 0nly 23km - 14 miles - I arrived soon after 11, to a city on a hill, so the ending was a bit more strenuous. A nice shower, a not so nice room, but it will do, a sporty new outfit and a tour of the town. Looking forward to dinner tonight - the local restaurant does a pilgrim meal for 9€ ($12).

Tomorrow I head to La Storta, my last stop before Rome. And sadly I read the last day walking is not very nice - but I guess to be expected - walking into a large city. If it was not my last day...I'd take the train!!! Even so, I should arrive in Roma, before noon on Saturday.

I booked a nice hotel throu the internet for Saturday and Sunday nights, so tomorrow night is my last Ostello also - which is fine by me - I keep being the subject of bites, even though I am not sure when or where they get me, just everyday I discover a new itch or two!

DAY 44: Bolsena to Vitterbo (20km - 12 miles - 623 total)

 Before we left the Convent we were staying in for dinner, Sister Josephina grabbed me and pulled me aside, and using two fingers she kept putting them to her mouth and taking them away.  As the italians are known for hand gestures, I asked if she was offering me a wish for a good trip. She looked like a scornful mother, she was warning me not to smoke in the room - which I had NOT done, but evidently the smell traveled. It was an amusing and charming exchange.

Last night I had a farewell dinner with Giorgio and Teresa, the Italian couple that I met the day I left Sienna (and raced the thunderstorm).We have been traveling to the same cities and staying in the same Ostellos for the past five days, but as I need to reach Rome by Saturday, I needed to do more mileage today. It was nice, and true to form, Giorgio snuck off and paid the bill.

Today was a relatively easy walk from Bolsena to Montefiascone, and I wish I could have stayed there - it was really lovely, and guess what...ON TOP OF A HILL!!! I think the people who plan the routes want pilgrims to suffer or earn their testimonium. I did mention that former pilgrims were honored with a place in heaven - right? Something like reserved seating I think. Also one day I passed a cross that indicated if you said the Lords Prayer and an Ave maria, you got 28 indulgences - which I read to mean something like 28 "Get out of jail free" cards. I have been trying to think of some good sinning I can use these on!!!

Anyway, I chose to take the bus from Montefascone to Vitterbo (about 10 miles), and again am happy with the choice, as Vitterbo is even bigger than Sienna and would have been a nightmare of a walk thru industrial and suburban areas to reach the center. I am already ready to leave. It is a lovely walled city, though not as lovely as Sienna, but it is just too busy - to the degree that you cannot possibly greet everyone and so no one greets anyone and most people look angry.

Tomorrow is another long day of 28km, but with only four more days of walking and a new route thanks to my friends in Radicofani, it promises to be a pretty route thru forests and by a lago (lake).

Sorry no pics, but am on an old computer with no USB port. Ciao!

DAYS 41 - 43: San Quirico to Belsano (77km - 46 miles - 611 total)

Now out of Tuscany and less than 100 miles to Roma! This picture is my pilgrim passport or CRENDENTIALE - each night where I stay, it is stamped by a church or Ostello. This is my official notification that I am a pilgrim and a wonderful memory for each night along the way.

 

DAY 41 - SAT. JUNE 28: Ann Quirico to Radicofani (30km - 19 miles):
Another difficult day - maybe I should just copy and paste this phrase. It started out with 3 miles uphill and ended with 5 miles uphill, the end of course being the worst as it was by now hot and after so many miles (18 total) I was tired and a bit hungry. The nice part at the end is that since I was climbing the temperature actually dropped the higher I got, the peak was over 2700 feet high. Thought at one point I found a picnc table but no shade, so I rigged up my own cafe - check out the pics online.
Look at this picture here, which I took at the top of the first 3 mile climb that little top way off in the distance is where I would walk today...it felt a bit like Sam and Frodo heading to Mordor (though with a happier destination).

But as in life, often hard work is rewarded, and so this was the case with a wonderful hilltop city and an amazing Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) staffed entirely by volunteers who have also been on pilgrimmages. In fact several there had recently done a pilgrimage with prisoners to end in Rome and had an audience with the Pope. The Way always changes one - sometimes in small ways and sometimes in big ways.

The Ostello was entirely on a donation basis including the wonderful dinner and breakfast (very early served) they served. In fact this evening is what I imagined when I planned the voyage - a family style dinner with other pilgrims. This was the norm on the Camino Compostella (in Spain), but a rarety on this pilgrimmage. Before dinner, they welcomed and honored us by a ceremonial washing of the feet.

To me, these smaller towns have a nicer flavor of Italy than the bigger attractions of Sienna and Lucca. They are still amazing in heritage andarchitecture, but not overrun by loads of tourists and tourist type shops. I highly reccomend these when you travel to Tuscana. I was also given a new way, which now makes it possible to finish the trip by foot.


DAY 42: Sunday June 29: Radicafani to Aquapendente (25KM - 16 miles):
Today I walked out of Tuscana. Being as the day started on top of the mountain, I made incredible time coming down the first 11km - 7 miles) in just under 2 hours. AMAZING views as I awoke above the clouds and then walked down into them. I love many of the pictures and views here, and I passed tens of thousands of spider webs.

 In one field, it seemed every plant was covered with them, the hedges were lined with them like a strip of Miami condos, it was so cool and I took a bucnh of pics - not sure they capture the abundance and beauty. Interesting every spider was in the exact center of his web - perhaps Italian spiders often have "siesta".

The mddle was all in vallies and quick, with the end being another climb, but not as high or as far. I arrived before noon, but since it was Sunday and a holiday (St Peter and St Pauls anniversary - of what I am not sure), not much was open (ie library for internet), so I walked about the town and read. I am reading Dicken's Great Expenctations - it is easier to find classic literaturein English here, probably for college students. But it inspires me to read more classics too. I was early to the Ostello and a bit dehydrated from going so fast and not taking good eating-drinking breaks: Upon arrival it is necessary to call the Ostello, but as I have no phone, I had to ask someone walking by. It is always interesting when I stop people to ask for directions and in this case to ask them to call for me. When I first say "Escusa mia", it is interesting to note their expressions. I feel sure this couple felt sure I was going to ask for money, so I quickly in Italian explain I am a pilgrim and want to sleep here, but it is necessary to call, but as a pilgrim I have no phone. Could you call for me (Escusa mia. Io sono peregrino e vorrei una camera questa note aqui. Besonya chiamere, mas no telephonera. Puo auotare mia?). They did help and were very kind. SInce I was early and the Ostello was not ready, they put me in a single room, which was quite nice with a double bed.

Aquapendente is another incredible town, with a wonderful flavor of history and tradition. Yet slow enough and out of the way to enjoy it more. The towns best restaurant has offered pilgrims a special meal and for $20 I received a four course meal (antipast - pasta - prima plato - dolce; appetizer sampler - pasta - main dish - dessert), wine and water. This would easily have cost $70 - $100, without the discount and was WONDERFUL and the people again so kind. Another great day!

DAY 43: Monday June 30: Aquapendente to Belsano (22km - 13 miles):
An easier day - there you have it a new phrase, as it was downhill to start and then instead of following the normal path, I chose to walk alongside a large lake (Lago Belsano), which was lovely and had bars and cafes right on the water - Bellisimo! Belsano is another grate old city and thankfully NOT on top of a hill.  As tomorrow is a long day for me, I look forward to a lasst meal with new friend Georgio and Teresa.