Day 6: June 9: Etiang >> Conques (35km)

TODAYS PHOTOS

After our brief vacation day yesterday, we needed to catch up on our itinerary, so I can catch my later flight to Munich (July 3). But we had to pay for our vacation as this made us walk late into the day, under a hot sun.

I have not slept well the past two nights, think it must be the shared rooms and getting used to it, so I have only been getting 3-4 hours/ night.

The day was beautiful and fresh and we had a challenging day in the mountains, ups and downs - both challenging in their own right.

Today we ended in Conques, a big stop along the way, and are staying in the monsatery with about 90 other pilgrims. There was a pilgrim meal tonight, followed by a blessing mass and music in the
cathedral.

Along the way, I read the history of the town and their patron saint, whose name slips my mind right now, but she was sainted for her work in healing eye maladies. Anyway she died - of course and was buried in her home town in Northern France, and years later when she was sainted, her bones being valuable RELICS, she was dug up and kept by her hometown church. As her work was done in Conques, they sent an undercover monk spy to her town to join the church, and after 10 years, he earned their trust and was allowed to guard the relics, which he stole and took to Conques. It was the popularity of the relics which earned the city enough money to grow and make a grand monsatery and church. It was the Disneyland of their time.

It was weird reading this story and thinking about the history of the pilgrimages and how the church used these to take money from people to grow in power and size. It is a bit discomforting to follow this "spiritual" route and think back to how so much of the motivation was commercial and took advantage of so many.

So not much has changed in a thousand years....something to ponder along the route...

We also had to say goodbye to several of our pilgrim friends as this was their stopping point.

Bon Nuit!

DAY 5: June 8: Espallion >> Etiang (15km)

Todays Pics Click here

The day was beautiful - perfect walking weather, though a bit overcast, especially as the morning begins with a strenuous climb to amazing views...IF CLEAR. Unfortunately me or my camera do not take such good pics if the sun is not out.

The way up was a bit treacherous, narrow muddy paths and a steep incline. It certainly got my blood pumping and kept me warm in the cool morning. But as the sayiong goes, what goes up must come down was also a bit severe.

We had a long day planned 22 km and staying in a small village with nothing but the GITES (pilgrim hotel); so we needed to pack in supplies at the midpoint, Etiang.

We arrived in Etiang at noon - a beautiful village along the River Lot. But in south france - all shoppes close from 12:00 - 2:00pm; so we either needed to move on without food for the night and next morning or stay put. As the village was so lovely we decided to stay.

We are staying at the Gites Communal - sort of like the local YMCA; and have found these city Gites to be better in most cases than the privately owned ones. Todays Gites appears brand new and is wonderfully designed with large kitchen, nice rooms with just a few beds in each, a lovely terrace/ balcomy and best yet - a dishwasher AND washing machine....a Pellerin's dream!!!!!

To give you an idea of the number of pilgrims/ hikers along the route, our Gite has 26 places and I feel sure they were all full, there are 2 other Gites in this village and one with 19 was full when we arrived, the other had 15 and I am not sure. There are also 4 hotels and we know many pilgrims stay there and also 3 HOTES -(Bed & Breakfasts). So it is likely there are close to 100 pilgrims in this village alone.

Tomorrow we must make up some mileage, and we stay in a monastery with 93 beds in a DORTOIRE (dormitory - possibly all one room).

We shall see!

Bon Nuit!

Day 4: June 7: St Chely >> Espallion (22km)

 THE REAL WORLD - Ou c'est trouve?

Today's Photos

The day was beautiful again with good climbs and better descents without so much water or difficult paths (live stream beds). I feel myself growing stronger which is nice, but am a bit overwhelmed by all the pilgrims (fellow travelers along the way).

In Italy, the entire 2 months walking, I saw maybe 20 pilgrims total, here I see at least that many a day. Although it is easy to walk alone and I do this most of the day, if I stop, at a spot to rest or reflect, maybe ten or fifteen minutes before another pilgrim arrives.

Perhaps I am just a whiney American - In Italy I was too lonely and here I am not lonely enough.

Another thing that I am struggling with is technology. I have never had any technology on previous walks - not even a cell phone. But here on this walk I have a cell phone, a kindle (books), and a laptop (I'm actually teaching an online course that began Monday).

The absence of technology let me truly walk outside my world and go inside to a new wold so to speak. I remember in Italy, I often found computers in the library or bureau de tourism, but these would close at 5 or so; and without technology I felt I had so much time. Even now as I walk, I am sometimes checking my phone for stupid reasons like email or facebook updates. I feel lost on the way.

I know in my own "normal" world, I have so many distractions - phone, internet,tv, work, etc. that it sometimes seems days go by without thinking or paying attention to whats around me. And that is part of the discomfort with the walks - is having nothing but time and having to fill it. I read voraciously in Italy when I could find English books - but I guess this too was another distraction. And now my kindle is loaded with like 40 classics from Thoreau to Dickens to Hugo - all free books from Guttenberg as copywrights are long ended.

So I think my challenge now is not physical, but mental and discipline - can I "turn-off" the world I know, to remember the REAL WORLD that we all carry within. It is like this picture I took today that I love. The clouds hid most of the view, but there was a tiny window to see through - perhaps this is what our distractions do - hide the best view!

Here is my plan:

•  Internet check ins/ school in morning; 
•  Turn phone off while I walk - use only for reservations
• 5 - 6 pm Internet Happy Hour (phone for facebook, etc)

Let's see how my INTERNET/ DIET goes! Care to diet with me!

Bon Nuit!

Day 3: Nasbanal >> St.Chely d"Aubrac

AMAZING RECOVERY, BEAUTIFUL DAY, REAL CAMINO (17 km)

ALL PHOTOS:

Nothing much to report today, it was a wonderful day on the camino and NOT on the road. I guess
the amazing thing is yesterday, I felt so bad at the end of the day - everything hurt and I had a slight fever, yet this morning I felt strong and well again...the healing power of sleep is weird and wonderful!

It was a beautiful sunny day and the walk was through mountain forests and fields. The ascents were strenuous for the energie, and the descents are strenuous on the knees and ankles, especially as many were down stream beds...that were not dry.So a bit muddy of a day.

I think the funniest story today was hanging out with a french guy (Jean Pierre) during a break who is in a Blue Grass Band - yes correct, supposedly bluegrass and country music are relatively popular in France - who would have guessed. But we started speaking about learning languages and we both remembered our FIRST lesson in each other's language:

JEAN PIERRE: Hello Brian. How are you? Brian, where is Jenny? Jenny isthe kitchen!
MOI: Bonjour Guy Cava? Je m'appelle  Jean Cluny!









Here is a pic of our room for the night - 12 Euros; sort of like a dorm room living, except we also have a common kitchen! A great and inexpensive way to travel!

Not much else to report, except I am looking forward to ALIGOT for dinner!

Bon Nuit!

Day 2: Aumont-Abrec >> Nasbinals (27km - 16 miles)

DIVERSION - LONGER TRAINING DAY - HEAVENLY POTATOES - KINDNESS OF STRANGERS & SELF FLAGGELATION:

Today was to be a longer day - about 16 miles, which is pushing it a bit for the second day. Funny thing is, The past few camino's I have done, I started with long walking days (>25km) for the first 5-7 days), so it would seem, that I am being a bit smarter in terms of this camino....though my body did not agree, but I get to that later.

Last night we stayed in a "Gites" (pronounced Zheetes) which is a cheaper accommodation where you share rooms and kitchen and bathrooms with other pilgrims. Our room had 16 - 18 beds. Even with tylenol PM and ear plugs, I awoke several times through the night to an assortment of sounds - who knew that different countries might have different snores. At one point, I sort of imagined I was just another animal in this barn, and that we each make our own sound...this made it a little less annoying.

Starting about 7:30 this morning after a nice cappucinno and crossant in local bar, we decided to avoid the off-road trails as there has been lots of rain, and both my book and Siggy's said these trails can become "bogs"in bad weather, so we made our own diversion and took the D987 - a nice country road that goes directly - sort of - to our planned ending spot (Nasbinal).

The morning started strong and we soon racked up about 13 km and I still felt good, though of course my feet were sore and whining from about the 4th km...which is normal for most of the walk.

The day was overcast and misty and a bit chilly. But I did not notice so much as the walking keeps me warm. One of the last villages we came to was having a Country Festival/ Market with all kinds of local products (cheeses, meats, jams, etc) as well as all sorts ofother odds and ends with lots of french fair-type food.

Unfortunately I ate at the first booth and missed one of the yummiest dishes, Allagot - a regional dish of mashed potatoes and cheese...OH MY GOD!!!! We were sitting in a bar eating our lunch when the table next to us with an older couple and a younger one,  brought out their Allagot dishes and we must have been looking at them longingly and pathetically - perhaps ala Oliver Twist, because the younger woman grabbed a spoonful and handed it to me - it was heavenly!!!

I have met with nothing but continual gestures of kindness here - it is one of the things I love about the being "a pilgrim.".

The rest of the walk was a struggle, perhaps due to the increased mileage as well as the cool temperatures, constant mist and a few light rainstorms. That by the time I reached Nasbinal, my butt was dragging. It is funny, but as soon as I passed the sign for the city, Bienvenue a Nasbinal, my body decided it was done -- funny how psychological physical things can be.

Almost immediately after the sign, I felt like I had a fever, my feet were dragging and my shoulders were sore from the weight. It was another km into town center, and I hardly made it. Even though the best weather of the day happened at the end with sunny skies finally. Even so, my sholders hurt so bad, I feel like a pilgrim of old who whips his back with every step he takes. I had adjusted my backpack this morning and am unsure if it is this or just the fact that I am carrying so much weight - about 30lbs,

Checking into our Gite for the night, I took a hot shower and fell deep asleep for about 45 minutes, I woke up stiff and with a slight fever. After hobbling to the local bar, a coffee and a beer, I feel a bit less stiff and hopefully a good nights rest - in a new barn - will bring more healing. Something I have
learned from these trips is how amazing sleep is for restoring the body - many days I felt like I could NOT go on the next day and surprisingly was in good shape in the morning.

Tomorrow - a lighter day - only 17km, but some steep descents and I think better weather!

Bon Nuit!

Day 1: June 4 St Alban >> Aumont LaBrac (15km)

I seem to forget that the first days of the pilgrimmage are always difficult, but today was a good day, yet still tough -- as I never train before even though I have good intentions.

I awoke early to take the bus to Aumont LaBrac to meet Siggy at end of day, but realized as we were driving that as it was so early, I could get dropped off at St Alban and walk today. This is the city we were supposed to meet in yesterday. The driver was very kind to change my route and an hour later at 8:30, I arrive in St Alban. I thought for sure, Siggy would be gone, but as soon as the bus pulled away, Ihear a voice, "Michael!"

Siggy had not left and we began walking immediately. It was a mostly lovely walk through forests and fiels with sun and cloudy skies, and just a bit of rain - which kicked in at the end. We only walked 15 km today (about 9 miles) so a good training start, but i am sore and tired and looking forward to bed as tomorrow we double the mileage (27km - 17 miles), as we head to Nasbinals.

So good to reconnect with my pilgrim friend from Italy - we met the night I stayed in the BATES MOTEL - another story for sure. We laughed our way through the day and now settling in for a beer and dinner...and excited to have wifi.

Bon Nuit! Bon Chemin!

DAY 0.1: June 3 Le Puy to Le Puy

I knew when I went to bed that breakfast was at 8, so when I awoke at 5; I went back to sleep for just

a few minutes until 9:45...OOOPS! I went downstairs in the now very quiet hotel, and the amazing Hotelier, Amir made me breakfast and a HUGE cup of Coffee - He is now my hero!!!

He also informed me of many things, one being I could not catch the bus to St Alban - my intended meeting spot today with my perregrin (pilgrim) buddy, Sigreid, as it leaves early in morning and one needs a reservation -- oops!

So the up side is I get a day in LePuy which I had planned anyway, thinking I would arrive about 1pm the day before not at 10:30pm. So today was a lovely day in LePuy visiting the Cathedral and Rocher St. Michel - which was sort of like climbing the stairs to my hotel room about 4 or 5 times. And it seems fitting, to start with my namesake saint's place in town.

At the top I lit a candle for a dear friend, Tanya undergoing bypass surgery today. Be well Tanya!

On the way down I also met another pilgrim who also happens to be a clown - but actually gets paid for it; Sandrine Hooge. Click on her name - she is the one with red hair! She was quite lovely and this is part of what I love about the voyage.

Finally I bumped into a Model T Ford on my way home - which of course makes me thing of home - that's a shout out to you pops!

So a relaxing day in town - still clocked about 4-5 miles, so maybe a good thing. And reservations for the bus at 7:15 tomorrow morning...NO OVERSLEEPING!!!

Bon nuit!