DIVERSION - LONGER TRAINING DAY - HEAVENLY POTATOES - KINDNESS OF STRANGERS & SELF FLAGGELATION:Today was to be a longer day - about 16 miles, which is pushing it a bit for the second day. Funny thing is, The past few camino's I have done, I started with long walking days (>25km) for the first 5-7 days), so it would seem, that I am being a bit smarter in terms of this camino....though my body did not agree, but I get to that later.
Last night we stayed in a "Gites" (pronounced Zheetes) which is a cheaper accommodation where you share rooms and kitchen and bathrooms with other pilgrims. Our room had 16 - 18 beds. Even with tylenol PM and ear plugs, I awoke several times through the night to an assortment of sounds - who knew that different countries might have different snores. At one point, I sort of imagined I was just another animal in this barn, and that we each make our own sound...this made it a little less annoying.
Starting about 7:30 this morning after a nice cappucinno and crossant in local bar, we decided to avoid the off-road trails as there has been lots of rain, and both my book and Siggy's said these trails can become "bogs"in bad weather, so we made our own diversion and took the D987 - a nice country road that goes directly - sort of - to our planned ending spot (Nasbinal).
The morning started strong and we soon racked up about 13 km and I still felt good, though of course my feet were sore and whining from about the 4th km...which is normal for most of the walk.
The day was overcast and misty and a bit chilly. But I did not notice so much as the walking keeps me warm. One of the last villages we came to was having a Country Festival/ Market with all kinds of local products (cheeses, meats, jams, etc) as well as all sorts ofother odds and ends with lots of french fair-type food.
Unfortunately I ate at the first booth and missed one of the yummiest dishes, Allagot - a regional dish of mashed potatoes and cheese...OH MY GOD!!!! We were sitting in a bar eating our lunch when the table next to us with an older couple and a younger one, brought out their Allagot dishes and we must have been looking at them longingly and pathetically - perhaps ala Oliver Twist, because the younger woman grabbed a spoonful and handed it to me - it was heavenly!!!I have met with nothing but continual gestures of kindness here - it is one of the things I love about the being "a pilgrim.".
The rest of the walk was a struggle, perhaps due to the increased mileage as well as the cool temperatures, constant mist and a few light rainstorms. That by the time I reached Nasbinal, my butt was dragging. It is funny, but as soon as I passed the sign for the city, Bienvenue a Nasbinal, my body decided it was done -- funny how psychological physical things can be.Almost immediately after the sign, I felt like I had a fever, my feet were dragging and my shoulders were sore from the weight. It was another km into town center, and I hardly made it. Even though the best weather of the day happened at the end with sunny skies finally. Even so, my sholders hurt so bad, I feel like a pilgrim of old who whips his back with every step he takes. I had adjusted my backpack this morning and am unsure if it is this or just the fact that I am carrying so much weight - about 30lbs,
Checking into our Gite for the night, I took a hot shower and fell deep asleep for about 45 minutes, I woke up stiff and with a slight fever. After hobbling to the local bar, a coffee and a beer, I feel a bit less stiff and hopefully a good nights rest - in a new barn - will bring more healing. Something I have learned from these trips is how amazing sleep is for restoring the body - many days I felt like I could NOT go on the next day and surprisingly was in good shape in the morning.
Tomorrow - a lighter day - only 17km, but some steep descents and I think better weather!
Bon Nuit!
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