Day 12: June 15: Lascabanes >> Lauzerte (24 km)

TODAYS PICS

Such a strange day...a day of little bits of magic, little bits of kindness, moments with new friends and one of the messiest and hardest days I have had on "The Way."

I slept well and late (6:00) and for the past 4-5 nights we have been in quiet rooms - few to no snorers, which is a blessing in itself. Today is a wee long day, made more difficult by the constant climb and descents. The other element that added the difficulty as these were certainly not the highest, Ive had is the amount of mud present from all the constant rain.

Although today was largely clear, I did not hit any rain at all, the way was muddy, so even flat paths through fields and forests were difficult to manage. This is NOT about staying clean, but about not having solid footing. The best way to walk a continuous walk like these is to have a good and steady pace - and with mud, you either slip or sink causing constant changes to your pace and also draining some of your energy.

I crossed paths with Damien and Agnes on the way and we stopped for our lunch together - sitting alongside the road. Agnes (AN-YES) is amazing, she is in her 70s, had both feet operated upon (she told me she is walking on new feet) and is walking all the way. It reminds me how life is often more about our will, than our circumstances...a lesson perhaps we all should heed.

Several times today, I was treated with what I call little magic moments. Once as I walked out of a forest path and into a field, I could see a horse and rider a good ways away as they were black against a pale yellow field and they were not riding but dancing...like horses you see in a circus or show - it was aquite unique show for me alone. Later I passed them on the route and I guess he was training it to walk in different ways. About 30 minutes later a small owl landed about 15 feet from me on a fence.

Later as I approached the Lauzerte, where I would sleep tonight, I could see it was atop the hill/ mountain and my heart sank a little realizing I would have to climb this to get there. This was a regular thing when I walked in Italy as it seems all the villages practically were on top of hills and mountains - which makes a tough end to the day. As I approached the bottom of thie city and was about to begin climbing, a young man stopped his car and asked if I was going to the top and then gave me a ride. This was a treat.

Unfortunately later when I arrived at the Gites for the night, I found I had no reservation - I am not sure exactly what happened, but the lady I spoke to in the morning did not tell the Gites and it was full. They let me stay by putting a mattress in the lounge - which suits me fine as I have a room alone tonight, but Siggy had to find another place and so now we have to find each other again.

The day ended with an awesome storm that was cool to watch roll in from such a great vantage point.  Bon Nuit!