DAYS 41 - 43: San Quirico to Belsano (77km - 46 miles - 611 total)

Now out of Tuscany and less than 100 miles to Roma! This picture is my pilgrim passport or CRENDENTIALE - each night where I stay, it is stamped by a church or Ostello. This is my official notification that I am a pilgrim and a wonderful memory for each night along the way.

 

DAY 41 - SAT. JUNE 28: Ann Quirico to Radicofani (30km - 19 miles):
Another difficult day - maybe I should just copy and paste this phrase. It started out with 3 miles uphill and ended with 5 miles uphill, the end of course being the worst as it was by now hot and after so many miles (18 total) I was tired and a bit hungry. The nice part at the end is that since I was climbing the temperature actually dropped the higher I got, the peak was over 2700 feet high. Thought at one point I found a picnc table but no shade, so I rigged up my own cafe - check out the pics online.
Look at this picture here, which I took at the top of the first 3 mile climb that little top way off in the distance is where I would walk today...it felt a bit like Sam and Frodo heading to Mordor (though with a happier destination).

But as in life, often hard work is rewarded, and so this was the case with a wonderful hilltop city and an amazing Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) staffed entirely by volunteers who have also been on pilgrimmages. In fact several there had recently done a pilgrimage with prisoners to end in Rome and had an audience with the Pope. The Way always changes one - sometimes in small ways and sometimes in big ways.

The Ostello was entirely on a donation basis including the wonderful dinner and breakfast (very early served) they served. In fact this evening is what I imagined when I planned the voyage - a family style dinner with other pilgrims. This was the norm on the Camino Compostella (in Spain), but a rarety on this pilgrimmage. Before dinner, they welcomed and honored us by a ceremonial washing of the feet.

To me, these smaller towns have a nicer flavor of Italy than the bigger attractions of Sienna and Lucca. They are still amazing in heritage andarchitecture, but not overrun by loads of tourists and tourist type shops. I highly reccomend these when you travel to Tuscana. I was also given a new way, which now makes it possible to finish the trip by foot.


DAY 42: Sunday June 29: Radicafani to Aquapendente (25KM - 16 miles):
Today I walked out of Tuscana. Being as the day started on top of the mountain, I made incredible time coming down the first 11km - 7 miles) in just under 2 hours. AMAZING views as I awoke above the clouds and then walked down into them. I love many of the pictures and views here, and I passed tens of thousands of spider webs.

 In one field, it seemed every plant was covered with them, the hedges were lined with them like a strip of Miami condos, it was so cool and I took a bucnh of pics - not sure they capture the abundance and beauty. Interesting every spider was in the exact center of his web - perhaps Italian spiders often have "siesta".

The mddle was all in vallies and quick, with the end being another climb, but not as high or as far. I arrived before noon, but since it was Sunday and a holiday (St Peter and St Pauls anniversary - of what I am not sure), not much was open (ie library for internet), so I walked about the town and read. I am reading Dicken's Great Expenctations - it is easier to find classic literaturein English here, probably for college students. But it inspires me to read more classics too. I was early to the Ostello and a bit dehydrated from going so fast and not taking good eating-drinking breaks: Upon arrival it is necessary to call the Ostello, but as I have no phone, I had to ask someone walking by. It is always interesting when I stop people to ask for directions and in this case to ask them to call for me. When I first say "Escusa mia", it is interesting to note their expressions. I feel sure this couple felt sure I was going to ask for money, so I quickly in Italian explain I am a pilgrim and want to sleep here, but it is necessary to call, but as a pilgrim I have no phone. Could you call for me (Escusa mia. Io sono peregrino e vorrei una camera questa note aqui. Besonya chiamere, mas no telephonera. Puo auotare mia?). They did help and were very kind. SInce I was early and the Ostello was not ready, they put me in a single room, which was quite nice with a double bed.

Aquapendente is another incredible town, with a wonderful flavor of history and tradition. Yet slow enough and out of the way to enjoy it more. The towns best restaurant has offered pilgrims a special meal and for $20 I received a four course meal (antipast - pasta - prima plato - dolce; appetizer sampler - pasta - main dish - dessert), wine and water. This would easily have cost $70 - $100, without the discount and was WONDERFUL and the people again so kind. Another great day!

DAY 43: Monday June 30: Aquapendente to Belsano (22km - 13 miles):
An easier day - there you have it a new phrase, as it was downhill to start and then instead of following the normal path, I chose to walk alongside a large lake (Lago Belsano), which was lovely and had bars and cafes right on the water - Bellisimo! Belsano is another grate old city and thankfully NOT on top of a hill.  As tomorrow is a long day for me, I look forward to a lasst meal with new friend Georgio and Teresa.

DAYS 39 - 40: June 26-27: Sienna to San Quirico d'Orcia - 55km - 33 miles - 565 total)

DAY 39: June 26: Sienna to Ponte d'Arbia:
I fell in love with Sienna last night. Sienna by day was overwhelmingly touristy, but when I went out to find dinner about 7:00pm, the main square was bustling with locals, drinking and gathering as I have seen them do in most towns. It is funny (and wonderful) this way of life as I see it. The streets are desreted between one and four, but after 4, locals some out to shop, to hang out, etc. I see mixtures of generations at cafes and bars. I see families with children, etc. I love the social fabric of life here, and think a part of this is missing at home, how it is built into daily life. But for now, I love Sienna...AT NIGHT.

I left early from Sienna and despite last night was happy to go, and it was another strenuos day, but it feels as though the hills are smaller, or I am stronger or both. Plus I had supplies for my day (fruit, juice, meat). I found a cafe about 4 miles into the day, and I realize this is one of my favorite times of day, the first stop. I sit outside with a croissant filled with fruit or cream, a cappucino and simply enjoy the moment, the rest. I love the first stop...unless I get yesterdays croissant!

Later I was not paying attention to my guide who warned of a long loop around the villages along the way, meaning I would miss cafes and shops...which I did. Again luckily I was provisioned, but it also meant not so nice breaks. Already grumpy over past few days this just added to it...mostly I think a bit homesick and worn down, like my shoes, but I get to that later.I did have some nice moments of meditation, but these did not seem to last.

The day was overcast with light thunder occurring all throughout the day, but this actually kept it cooler and it was a pretty walk through Tuscany. As I reached a marker indicating 2km to my planned destination (a little over a mile), the thunder started getting louder and I could see much darker clouds rolling in, as well as lightning on the hills, which I never could catch with my camera. I was not worried as I was in a valley and not near any strikes. But I was worried about rain, so quickened my pace, and it seemed as I quickened, so did the clouds also moving in the direction of the village I was going to - Ponte d'Arbia. Louder it got and the wind picked up, so I picked up my pace as I enetered the outskirts of town. A few blocks later, I spied a bar ahead to my left and kept up my pace. 10 steps from the bar, I felt the first drop. Within a minute the rain was falling in buckets.

This gift of perfect timing lifted my spirits as do the many miracles and kind gestures along the way. I firmly believe people treat pilgrims better than tourists, even though we dont smell as nice. The Ostello here was self service with everyoine in town knowing the key was under the matt, a kind town with lovely people. I hope this energizes me for the nine remaining days of walking....


FRI JUNE 27: Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'Orcia:
After yesterdays rain, I awoke to a thick and heavy fog. I loved it and chose to take the hilly loop in the morning,,,,so my spirits must still be lifeted. It was a lovely and seemingly mysterious walk in the mountains in the fog where I snapped pics of sunrise, trees and spiderwebs crystallized in moisture. There is something other-wordly about fog and being alone in nature. And only an hour or two later, my favorite stop of the day - PRIMA. My cappuncino, croissant and zigarette (YES IM SMOKING - but will NOT in the USA). One of the things I hate about smoking is how bad it smells, well here it is actually an IMPROVEMENT on my smell and to me seems a part of italian life...

The day was clear and lovely later as I walked over hills and vineyards, ending up in a lovely village atop another hill...of course. Tonight there are 5 pilgrims here besides me, 3 italiand and a dutch man - who is now walking home to the Netherlands, after reaching Rome, he will be walking for more than 6 months....OH LA LA. I dont think I could do this, or rather, dont want to do this. Two of the Italians, Therese and Giorgio, I met last night and they are walking from Sienna to Rome.



I also found an amusing guide for correct toilet use, which given my earlier posts, felt sort of appropriate...HOPE YOU ENJOY!

DAY 38:June 25 Colle di Val d'Elsa to Sienna (0K - 0 miles - 532 total)

Last night I enjoyed strolling the streets of the OLD and NEW parts of the city in Colle di Val d'Elsa, especially after I found the ELEVATOR. The old part Towers about 10 stories about the lower level and the streets are treachourously steep....in a crazy way....it must never snow here. But the elevator is a Marvel, bored through solid rock it takes you to top or bottom in seconds, and at the bottom you exit via a cave-like tunnel. Beats the first time I went back up top....sweating all the way! I also realize I like cities like this, that are a little touristy, but not quite so busy. I stayed in the convent and had a lovely host and room....again all for free.

Viva la Providence!
This morning when I awoke at my normal time - about 5:30, it was pouring rain, so thinking I had a lighter day /(less walking - about 12-15 miles), I decided to sleep another hour and see the weather then. I woke up again at 8:00 - feeling groggy and it was not raining but a bit overcast, so I decided to take the bus to Sienna ($5 - well spent).

However when the bus arrived it got full fast and as I have a HUGE Pack and long stick, I thought maybe I should just wait 40 minutes for next bus, so I sat back down as Others boarded. I then watched as the bus driver got some other hikers off the bus and began storing their equipment under the bus - PERFECT - so I quickly ran up and stred ine to ...PROVIDENCE!

I am SO GLAD I did this as Sienna is HUGE, much bigger than I would have thought a city of 60,000 would be, but I am sure with all the tourists and they are here in busloads, the population is probably double. Getting into and out of large cities on foot is usually incredibly long and boring.


It is a beautiful city full of rich architecture, history etc., but right now it is swelling with tourists and touristy type shops - it is just not the Italy I want to see. I am staying in a convent here - again free, showered changed and walked about a bit, then found a quiet shady bench out of the way and spent a couple hours reading. A German couple asked me, why I was reading and not looking about if this was my only day here, and I pretty much shared the same - I like being out of the way, in real villages, not tourist sites.

I was planning on spending another day here, but now am happy to leave Tomorrow.,

Days 35 - 37: Lucca to Colle di Val d'Elsa (95km - 57 miles - 532 Total)

I have had big distant days and they have NOT been easy. Tuscany is all hills, so its been a bit of an up and down. I did over 67 km in two days which would normally take me three or four. So in my mind, I have gained a day or two in my plan to reach Rome. However today left me a GRUMPY PILGRIM....

SUN JUNE 22: Lucca - Fuechio:  (37K - 22 miles - longest day yet)
A pleasant surprise happened last night in Lucca, Birgit, my first travel buddy ended up in the same Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) as me, So we had dinner with 2 other German girls and caught up on each others adventure...hers being a bit more risque! The next day (today) we planned on meeting in the same city about 17k away (10 miles), but I got up early as was in this village by 11:00 am, and just felt like it would waste a day to stop, so I thought I would go to the next village with an Ostello - which was an additional 12K (7 miles). I was kind of excited because this town's Ostello is actually built into the bridge (WAY COOL). Unfortunately SUNDAYS SUCK as it is difficult to contact people and when I arrived  at Ponte a Cappiano, no one was there and no one would answer the phone, so I was stuck.

A nice lady in the bar phoned ahead to the next village (another 3 miles) and found me a cheap room in a boarding house. However she just gave me the name and address....after I walked about a mile, I suddenly realized, I am walking into a town of 30,000 people and have no idea of any of the streets and did not ask her to tell me what it was near (church, town center , etc.) SHIT! . How in the hell am I going to find this. Luckliy for the first time ever, as I walked into the city there was a city map with street index posted in bronze and the street was a major one and the street I was on would merge right into it...LUCKY PILGRIM!

It was quite lovely and had an awesome terrace. But man I was beat when there, though not as beat as the first few days, so my body is street tough! And vesides that listening to my music made me miss turns, twice, so I had to retrace steps (CATES - I take back that beer offer!). Also today, I was confirmed in my annoyance at Lucca being touristy. In Lucca, I got a small gelati which had two ping pong ball scoops in it, something I had never seen before (so smal serving), today in a small village along the way, i ordered the same small bowl and it was crammed full and about 3 inches of mound above the edge. Trust me - getting away from the tourist hot spots is way better!

Its also funny the lessons that come to  me on the walk, sometimes they seem like major life questions or challenges and sometimes, just practical walking advice. Todays tip is do NOT tuck your shirt in your underware. Because my pack is tight against my back, my shirt back is always wet with sweat, and when it was tucked in me undies, it created a nice flow to my, how should I say, rear attributes, which created the perfect storm for chaffing. OUCH! The last four miles were hell, as was sitting in the pizzeria waiting for dinner.

Another good lesson however is the restorative power of sleep, the next morning fett and butt were happy and ready for another day!

MON JUNE 23: Fuecchio to Gambassi Terme (31k - 19 miles):
Today was to be the TRI-FECTA of difficult days: 1. yoyo path (all ups and downs), 2. Long Distant (though originally this was my 36K day, but yesterdays misfortune (closed Ostello) reduced the mileage, and 3. Fa caldo (HOT)! This was a tough day, taking me 10 hours to do the entire walk, though I did take a long lunch-nap break (about an hour). Please enjoy these pics as I WORKED HARD FOR THEM. it was an amazing day with incredible views the entire time as I walked along (up and down) a ridge in Tuscany! What added to the toughness is that for the almost last 12 miles, there were no cities, shops or cafes, so first there are no good breaking points and second, you dont ever know how far you've gone and how much is left. 1 mile before the Ostello, there was finally a bar, and I have never been so happy to see a bar in my life!

This day made me really realize how not only physical this journey is, but also mental, because though my energy was good all day, my mental energy went down at end, making me even slower. The Ostello is Gambassi was nice and there were alot of pilgrims there, I had dinner with about 12 people - five of them Italian guys who walk together and like to sing...they sang throughout most of the dinner....it was odd and interesting. And then there was the Spanish lady whose laugh shattered glass,,,,hysterical. I just wish my italian was better as I dont think I got all the jokes.

TUES JUNE 24: Gambassi Terme to Colle di Val d'Elsa (28K - 17 miles)
I got a really early start today as I could not find my clock when i awoke, so I think I left at about 5:30. I also made some individual choices about routes and probably saved myself a mile or two of hill climbing. I am beginning to think that part of the NEW mapping of the camino, is for tourist reasons and they want you to hit many towns. I was a little disappointed when I passed this really nice hotel cafe at 7:30 - the first I saw all day only to realize it was closed until 8am. and I did not want to waste 45 mins of walking time early. It was a nice crisp morning and I got to see the sunrise...i probably took way too many pics. Then I passed through an amazing old city San Gigmiano, where I had a nice coffee on a terrace overlooking the hills. I also worked hard to get to this city as it was high on a hill. I made great time and made it into Colle, about 1:30pm, but as usual my worst part of day - finding Ostello and finding Tourist office. And italy is like Spain in that many places close from 12:30 - 3 or 4, which both the Ostello and Tourist office were, so I ended up walking back and forth a couple of times. Adding to my already general grumpiness.

I think I am ready to leave, its not easy being a nomad, a different city every day. I dream of my own bed now and air conditioning, though I did have it on the two nights previos (Lucca and Fuecchio) and unexpected pleasure. i took a picture of the CLIMA maching. But I have less than two weeks left, I know, but it is beginning to feel less like an adventure and more like work or something I have to check off as having been accomplished. But then there are moments like today as I was nearing my end city, a van just pulled over right in front of me - which first made the GRUMPY pilgrim even grumpier, because I was going to have to walk way out in the highway to get around it, As I passed the driver he reached out and handed me three apricots, and said they were for the pilgrim going to Rome. Its these moments that encourage me, and allow me to lessen the GRUMP. A farmer waving his fist in triumph as he passes me, a nicely dressed lady in a city, saying COMPLIMENTI COMPLIMENTI.

I know I can do this, and enjoy it, but I do miss home.....

Day 34: June 21: Camaoire to Lucca (24 km - 15 miles - 475 total)

Last night I stayed in an Osteria - which best as I can tell is like a religious school and community center. It was not so nice, but a free bed and shower, one should not complain and the people were very nice  (Molto gentile).

It was a nice evening, I notice that a narrow street with high buildings creates shady sèpots most of the day, and the main street was one long street through the entire village allowing a nice breeze throughout the day.

My guide warned me that the second half of today would be without any shops or cafes, so I packed heavy with food and drink, but the second half was just 12 km and mostly flat. Meanwhile I added about 5 lbs to my sac which did not feel so good. Especially as the first hour was a climb of over 1000 feet. Its not so much the height, but the paths, mostly narrow and stony. Going up is strenuous and going down treachorus. But I did well.

And I guess I am getting much stronger as it was a quick day, arriving just aftern noon. I also seem to be more comfortable using the great outdoors - hell it aint much different than using one of those men,s toilets. This cracks me up as I dont feel all that outdoorsy, but today I didnt even think about where next village was, justy hopped in the woods and took care of business.

Some nice views and good timing today on my walk, as I said I am definitely getting stronger. Lucca is an incredible city totally walled around, but overrun with tourists - though this did make it easy to find the Tourist Office, there is three!. I guess I really am opne too, but in my mind I am Michele (Mi-Kel-ee) the peregrino. It is completely walled in, and packed with shops and restaurants - tonight I think I splurge a little and eat some nice pasta and wine...I still cannot imagine eating the italian way with 2- 4 courses....I would not be able to walk.

The Ostello here is amazing it is a 3-bedroom apartment, fully appointed, and again all siimply for donation. They tell me it is full tonight (4 people), but I have my own room which I like. I also did some laundry (in the sink) as my shirt today started walking without me. The Stinky Tourist lives on!!!

And also finally I find a city, Lucca,  that gives me the credit I deserve, the largest and central piazza is for Saint Michael - - naturally. Tomorrow I walk only 16 km to Abbadia di Pozzeveri, but as it is Sunday, this always poses a problem in finding a bed.

Ciao!

DAY 33 - June 20: Massa - Camaiore(25km - 15 miles - 460 Total)

Todays walk was GORGEOUS again, leaving Massa with a street lined with Orange Trees, I thought of grabbing one, but was not sure the etiquette. I left early and had to climb into the mountains, and so had some amazing views of the sea. Early on a came across a WITCH bar, then later had to absolve myself to use a pilgrim toilet.....a hedgerow! After this I thought maybe Sigrid had cursed me, given her earlier episode. Not sure where she is, but thought these were all omens for running into her. Morning walking is good, afternoon, it gets tough as the heast kicks in. I am a lil worried once I leave the mountains again.

Today I thought of my father alot, the first was when a truck passed me by with a loud speaker on top announcing, "Pesce" (fish) as it drove thru neighborhoods; and later a mailman drove up on a scooter while I was at a cafe. Miss you Pops!

Camiore is a lovely village, of about 30,000 -  just about the right size in my mind...lots of restaurants, shops and cafes to feed me and not so much that it makes it hard to get into or out of town. And right now I am in the library, so I get internet too.

Tomorrow another long day into Lucca, a much bigger town, so am hoping to upload recent pics.

Oh I also invented a new Italian word...Benella  - for something that is good (bene) and beautiful (bella). I like it and these Italians better give me credit...YESTERDAY was definitely a BENELLA DAY.

Pictures soon....CIAO!

DAY 32: Massa - Pilgrim Vacation

Best day yet. I took train from Sarzanna to Massa in early morning, found tourist office (ALWAYS A PAIN). Found internet for quick updates with pics and blòog, found a room in lovely church with lovely franciscan monk, Eugenio, and loaded a lighter day pack to go to the beach.

About a 3 mile walk...nothing for me now, I found the beach. In Italy most beaches are private and are sort of like country clubs. The club I found costs $1500 per season, but being it was Thursday was not crowded and they rented me a primo spot for $13. There was a nice restaurant, and I got a chair, umbrella, beach bed...it was fabulous day off.

A nice light salad with white whine (I am becoming italian I think...call me mik-el-eee), I napped, read (a book I found in the last Ostello, and had the best time. In fact I almost cried when I had to leave...it was so nice. Making me think I will need a vacation from my vacation. At dinner I sat next to some Americans, but never let on I was one....after all, now I am Mik-el-eee.

And I so want this paddle boat with slide for my lakehouse that I saw here