DAYS 39 - 40: June 26-27: Sienna to San Quirico d'Orcia - 55km - 33 miles - 565 total)

DAY 39: June 26: Sienna to Ponte d'Arbia:
I fell in love with Sienna last night. Sienna by day was overwhelmingly touristy, but when I went out to find dinner about 7:00pm, the main square was bustling with locals, drinking and gathering as I have seen them do in most towns. It is funny (and wonderful) this way of life as I see it. The streets are desreted between one and four, but after 4, locals some out to shop, to hang out, etc. I see mixtures of generations at cafes and bars. I see families with children, etc. I love the social fabric of life here, and think a part of this is missing at home, how it is built into daily life. But for now, I love Sienna...AT NIGHT.

I left early from Sienna and despite last night was happy to go, and it was another strenuos day, but it feels as though the hills are smaller, or I am stronger or both. Plus I had supplies for my day (fruit, juice, meat). I found a cafe about 4 miles into the day, and I realize this is one of my favorite times of day, the first stop. I sit outside with a croissant filled with fruit or cream, a cappucino and simply enjoy the moment, the rest. I love the first stop...unless I get yesterdays croissant!

Later I was not paying attention to my guide who warned of a long loop around the villages along the way, meaning I would miss cafes and shops...which I did. Again luckily I was provisioned, but it also meant not so nice breaks. Already grumpy over past few days this just added to it...mostly I think a bit homesick and worn down, like my shoes, but I get to that later.I did have some nice moments of meditation, but these did not seem to last.

The day was overcast with light thunder occurring all throughout the day, but this actually kept it cooler and it was a pretty walk through Tuscany. As I reached a marker indicating 2km to my planned destination (a little over a mile), the thunder started getting louder and I could see much darker clouds rolling in, as well as lightning on the hills, which I never could catch with my camera. I was not worried as I was in a valley and not near any strikes. But I was worried about rain, so quickened my pace, and it seemed as I quickened, so did the clouds also moving in the direction of the village I was going to - Ponte d'Arbia. Louder it got and the wind picked up, so I picked up my pace as I enetered the outskirts of town. A few blocks later, I spied a bar ahead to my left and kept up my pace. 10 steps from the bar, I felt the first drop. Within a minute the rain was falling in buckets.

This gift of perfect timing lifted my spirits as do the many miracles and kind gestures along the way. I firmly believe people treat pilgrims better than tourists, even though we dont smell as nice. The Ostello here was self service with everyoine in town knowing the key was under the matt, a kind town with lovely people. I hope this energizes me for the nine remaining days of walking....


FRI JUNE 27: Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'Orcia:
After yesterdays rain, I awoke to a thick and heavy fog. I loved it and chose to take the hilly loop in the morning,,,,so my spirits must still be lifeted. It was a lovely and seemingly mysterious walk in the mountains in the fog where I snapped pics of sunrise, trees and spiderwebs crystallized in moisture. There is something other-wordly about fog and being alone in nature. And only an hour or two later, my favorite stop of the day - PRIMA. My cappuncino, croissant and zigarette (YES IM SMOKING - but will NOT in the USA). One of the things I hate about smoking is how bad it smells, well here it is actually an IMPROVEMENT on my smell and to me seems a part of italian life...

The day was clear and lovely later as I walked over hills and vineyards, ending up in a lovely village atop another hill...of course. Tonight there are 5 pilgrims here besides me, 3 italiand and a dutch man - who is now walking home to the Netherlands, after reaching Rome, he will be walking for more than 6 months....OH LA LA. I dont think I could do this, or rather, dont want to do this. Two of the Italians, Therese and Giorgio, I met last night and they are walking from Sienna to Rome.



I also found an amusing guide for correct toilet use, which given my earlier posts, felt sort of appropriate...HOPE YOU ENJOY!