A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A PILGRIM

I thought it might be interesting to see what a typical day is like during this journey....

1. Wake up, and eat a lil something (italian breakfasts suck - pastry and expresso - as does their bread) and pack bag - usually about 6-630am. It takes me about 10 minutes to pack, and it is funny, but I have an absolute system for everything (clothes in bottom, toiletries here...
2. Start Walking. Depending upon how long I am planning or walking or how hot it is, if a long walk (>18 miles) or if it is going to be hot, I try and be on the road by 7, and sometimes I even start at 6 in especially hot spots. A luxury day (or lazy pilgrim day) starts at 8, usually if I plan to walk very short or take train and do a skip. On hot or tough walks (hills), I average 2 miles an hour (when breaks included), cool times and flat walks I average closer to 3 mph.
3. Breaks: I stop about every 2 hours for 15 - 30 minutes. I take my shoes off (sometimes socks too) and eat and drink something. Normally I carry some fruit, some ham or other dried meat and cheese and some OJ. I will take a longer break around lunch and sometimes even nap. Finding a good break spot is sometimes hard - i have some pictures of not so fun ones (underpass, etc.) I prefer cafes and bars or a nice bench or picnic tale.
4. Arrival: I have tended to arrive in towns in early to mid afternoon, and I always try to find the tourist info office first if they have one, as this gives me info on computers, a map and eating and shopping. This is NOT an easy job and one of my least favorite, finding the office in a city with no map. I then usually head to the hostile (pilgrim hotel) I am hoping to stay in. Once there, i get a stamp in my pilgrim passport, I fill out a police document indicated who i am and where i am staying and get a lil tour and rules- info talk.
5. Tourist- Shopping time: Once checked in, showered and sometimes short nap, I assess my food for the next day and see if I need anything. Then I spend afternoon, evening in city - journaling, looking at cites, shopping for food for walk, eating and drinking and getting Gelati!!!
6. Bed Time: Normally between 9 - 11pm. Usually I read, I have bought several books here, in fact I bought one today, Henry James, The turning of the Screw (Only had a few classics in English).

NORMAL DAILY BUDGET:  ($29 - $59  though mstly closer to lower)

1. Food for walk (fruit, meat,cheese, juice) $5.00
2. Breaks at Cafes\ bars.  (coffee\ coke\ pastry)  - $10
3. Room for night (most are donation based provided by local churches, where i normally leave $5, or $10 if the people or place is really nice (wash machine, fan, etc). If I have to get a hotel, these usually cost about $30. In last 2 weeks, I have only had a hotel one night, all others were donation and that one cost $27, but included breakfast.
4. Dinner: If I eat out with others, this is usually about $15, if alone, its usually about $10 as sometimes I will just buy food to prepare or get something quick.                          

Oh and there is PLENTY of TIME for thinking..........

DAY 30: june 16: pontremali - Aulla (32Km - 20 miles - 420 total)

277 MILES TO ROME.....

The day was gorgeous, and I left Pontremoli about 7:00. The sky was blue, and this was one of the best walks so far. Lots of beautiful scenery, walks in the hills, walks through wonderful old towns, including places that seemed like a dead end, but as you came close to the wall you could see it opened to the left or right. It has some tough climbs and some tough descents, but not really long ones. So it was a wonderful walk.

As I was walking into Filattiera, (which by the way took 90 steps up), I saw a sign for bibliotecque (library), and since at that point I have been out of touch for 3 - 4 days, I thought I might see if they had internet. Often the smaller towns have fewer people and fewer rules (like only 30 minutes of use, etc.). I could not find it, but saw the Municipo (City hall) so went inside to ask. The security guard sent me upstairs, where I explained, "Sono Pelligrino, no computer, no telephono. Vorrei usaro computer con internet a parlo con parenti" (I am a pilgrim with no phone, no computer and like to find one to speak with my family). A nice lady ushered me into an office (hers) and sat me down. I ased if it was OK, and possibly use it for an hour, se just smiled and waved her hands as if to say, just use it. This nice lady was the MAYOR of the town and I was at her desk. While I updated my blog and answered email, she conducted her business with multiple people at the conference table across the room, always introducing them to the PILGRIM. I am still floored his occured, she was so nice.

The rest of the day was nice and later found the city of Aulla to be strange to what I have seen so far, specifically that it is ALL NEW, the priest told me that all was destroyed in WWII. But here they are so kind and have recommended a restaurant and even provide a computer, which i am on now.

DAYS 26 - 29: Fidenza > Pontremoli (91km - 46 miles - 400Total)

Sorry for so long, but no internet in awhile, but a GREAT FEW DAYS!!!

Amazing pics and views: https://viafrancigenawithmichael.shutterfly.com/pictures

FRI JUNE 13: Fidenza to Medasson; A beautiful days walk after an interezsting night...the hills are back

and I love ith it was a challenging day. Last night I had a beautiful room in a monastery facing west, so after sunset I opened windo to let in the air, but within a gfew minutes was attacked by mosquito, so decided I would try and face the night with window closed. Two hours into sleep I awoke sweating and very hot, so I thought maybe I open just a little...another hour, no sleep, so I think I brave the mosquitos. As soon as I open the window and set back down,,,within seconds a storm blew in and cooled off my room...MAYBE I DO HAVE PILGRIM OR COQWBOY MOJO!!!! It was so cool listening to all the shutters bang against the walls, etc.

Later in day I was forced to do some CIRQUE DE SOLEIL BALANCING ACT at the mens toilet again...I JUST DONT GET IT...but I scored well!!!!!

 

SAT JUNE 14: Medesano to Cassio:

This was my longest day yet at 32 km, about 20 miles. The morning was good and I made amazing time, but the afternoon was all climbing and I had not eaten well or prepared good for this. One stage had a stone stream bed rising up at the steepness of a stairwell for over a mile...imagine going up a mile of steps!!!

When i got here, i was taken a few steps and then stopping,,,it was crazy, and I realized more than physically tired, I was PSYCHING MYSELF OUT...I kept looking up and thinking I CANT DO THIS. When i realized this, I was sitting looking out over 50 - 75 miles of Italy that I had already walked through and I thought to get my music player. The song that came on was a spiritual song called "I just cant give up now"  whose first line is "there will be mountains that I need to climb", I almost cried. at the serendipity. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37PCbh9KppA ). A huge shout out to my colleague at brookhave Jason Cates for pushing me to bring my music, when i told him I just wanted to listen to me....now I realize that often what is in front of me is not what causes me the biggest problems, its whats going on inside of me.

Later at the top was a beautiful bar, with a woman who treatemet me as her child and made sure I had food and drink, a lovely salad and beer. Then even more fun, as I began walking the last 4 miles to the village I was staying in, I saw ahead of me two hikers, a little woman and tall man. I could tell they were tired as the woman tried to flag down cars and then they almost veered off the road when it was close to where we needed to go, as I came upon them, they turned around and said, "Are you Michael Bailey?"

What the hell???? It seems they had been following me by a couple of days and seen my entries in the quwst books, where I always sign with a lil smiley face with cowboy hat and the label of cowyboy pellegrinni, They had also met several people I had met along the way. Annette and Charlie are from England and have done may walks, we would walk together for the next few days as well as Sigrid from germany, who we would meet later that night in the Ostello in Cassio...which has another fiunny story!  I forgot how wonderful it is to have company and would greatly enjoy the next few days.

SUN JUNE 15: Cassio to Cissa Pass:

The weather was overcast and rainy all day, evidently, Northern Italy is experiencing floods...OOH LAA LAA what an experience. so I stuck to the road, and truly did not mind it. It was a bit cold, but I like walking in the rain and there was little traffic. I AM ALSO NOW IN TUSCANY!!!

Sigrid and I met up in a bus stop and sat out a hard rain and later a bar in the afternoon, and she told me a funny story about the house manager from our place the night before. Andrea was so kind and had tons of food for guests to prepare on their own and then pay on the honor system. Sigrid and Annete made a lovely

salad and pasta, we had wine and it was lovely and fiun to be with pilgrims again. It also was the second night I could sleep well with windows open, cool breeze and no mosquitos. in fact last night I got cold!!

Anyway Sigriod saw our house manager having a lively conversation in the garden with this old lady manaquin that he had sitting in a chair....she said it was very odd...remind you of anyone...maybe NORMAN BATES!!!!!! Glad she did not tell me the night before. Again we all end up in another lovely hostile and they prepare us dinner which was wonderful!

MONDAY June 16: Cissa Pass to Pontremoli:

Another overcast day. An easy walk energy wise as it was all downhill on road surfaces, but again tough on the legs. But it eneded in a beautiful village Pontremoli that was incredibly charming and Sigrid, Charlie and Annette and I shared what I believe is our final meal as they move onto to visit family. A great few days!

DAY 25: June 12: Fiorenzuola - Fidenza (20km; 13 miles, 354 total)

Yesterday with a lot of afternoon time, I decided to plan the rest of my time and decided I will NOT be able to walk all the way to Rome, not the way i wish too...that is I dont want to walk 20 - 30 miles per day. I will end each day exhausted and be moving to fast to enjoy. So I have chosen to slow down through Tuscany and skip some sections later as I near Rome, thinking these to be more hot.

I pass a lovely villa with a pool and so want to stay here a day or two, or even just 30 minutes to swim and relax...I imagine a cafe by the pool....This morning it feels not as hot and the walk is lovely again with a few hills and some paths that are not busy highways. The day is lovely and quickly I see a range of hills and small mountains, called the little Alps (Alpinees)



I also am forced to use the MANs TOILET in a bar this morning, which to me feels like I am in the gym as you must squat over the hole...I dont quite understand why women get a seat and we do not. Up until now, in the country cafes, I have simply snuck into the ladies one.

 I dont walk too far and am in the city before noon. i hope to find a washing machine and de-stink again.I feel recharged after a couple down days, 

I know it is good to be alone and yet am lonely too, It is a dance I do every day. And last night was wonderful, just enjoying the people and the place. I imagine people I know living this way, I easily see my father, who was a mailman sliding into a cafe and joking with locals, or my mom with her sisters or friends.

I like this picture and it makes me less lonely, thinking of home and here in some weird mixed up story....

DAY 24: June 11: Piacenza - Fiorenzueola (23km - 14 miles - 341 total)

Yesterday after arriving in Piancenza and getting a little internet, I checked into the Pilgrim Hotel, and was given a roommate, which turned out to be the blessing I needed to get a little renewed after the night before sleep and crappy day walking. Andra is a 29 year old pilgrim from the Mountain region above Milan, he restores churches and homes and is walking the opposite way...Toward >St Bernard Pass. He spoke no english, but we had a nice afternoon and meal....and reminded be of the blessings that can come, when I am in my worst temperament. i was sorry to see him go the other direction come the morning.

Today was another crappy day of walking, I would have been happy to take the train 14 miles entirely along a busy highway. IT SUCKED. I walked about 10 or 11, then got on the bus.
 Another new source of anxiety as this is a different system, but no hitches...all went well.

The best think that happened is I saw a hill and NO RISE FIELDS for past 2 days! Though my body looks like I have the measles from so many mosquito bites. San Rocco is Patron Saint oif Pilgrims, giving up wealth to travel and help the ill and poor...in his later life he was infected with something so supposedly would reveal his inflinction...maybe I should too?

In Fiorenzuola, I looked around the city, tried to get some inidan food, but the lunch crowd ate it, and then had an incredible evening walk that I imagine will linger in my mind when I think of Italy....

I walk out my door about 9:15pm, the sun has set, but it is not dark. The temperature has dropped early and it is warm but comfortable. The yellow street lights bath the night in an amber glow. Starlings dart and chase each other in the sky I can see above me between the buildings. I pass a little cafe nested in the church, it a grapevine enclosure with an older couple and then 3 little ladies, each having a conversation of their day. I turn the corner to see a young couple eyeing the merchandise in a home store. The wife is scanning the merchandise for every detail, meanwhile the young man shifts back and forth, I think wanting to gget to the cafe for a biera or home to see football (not US football). Arouns another corner, a larger cafe is full of older men sitting in groups of 2's and 3's, teasing, smoking, drinking laughing....

There is somthing about the life here that breathes connection. It seems most of life takes place outside even in the heat and revolves around connections to your friends, your family your neighbors. I feel like we miss some of this in the US and that simply the sturcutre of living here feeds connection. Maybe I am just a bit dreamy tonight, but I go to be with a million thoughts.

It is hard to sleep in the heat and I wonder in this hot humid place, why air conditioning is still a rarety in hmes and even businesses. It intriques me, but then I think, maybe we americans are too soft. We say if we give a child everything, they will become a spoiled brat. Arent we in some ways doing the same as adults...trying to fix every discomfort and inconvenience as soon as possible. Maybe life should have a bit of discomfort, just to keep us real...and NOT BRATS.

The picture to the right is of a gas station and bar...thought it was maybe a little bit of a mixed message---eh?

DAY 23; June 10: St Christina - Piancenza (18km - 12 miles - 317 total)

So today started out bad and I lost all my energy for the walk. Bad nights sleep ( the last place I stayed was over teen center) followed by the first 4 miles through tall wet grass, I was so annoyed and soppy , especially as I had no coffee yet.

This only got worse when I stepped in a hole; I sank below my knee is some culvert and am extremely lucky that I did not get hurt. So today my internal WHINING METER is going berserk.

I want to go home. I want to be clean. I want clean clothes. I want a hamburger on the grill. I want air conditioning.

WOW I am such a whiner. About this time, I am sitting in a piazza in front of a church inChignolo Po, and its obvious kids are gathering for some sort of field trip - looks like a beach or pool outing. Anyway, I can tell I am a subject of interest...some alien visitor. A five year old boy works up the courage to approach me, and i think asks me what I am. When I tell him an American and a cowboy from Texas, he runs back to his friends and I am engulfed by a few kids wanting to know what this pelligrini stuff is about...and wheres my horse and gun.

Later I had already decided to train the second half od day as it is into a large city with 12 miles with mo breaks just industiral areas...so a light day except for the crappy start. Pretty fancy train station above - eh?

A demani...

Day 22: June 9: Pavia to Santa Christini e Bissone

 The say all roads lead to Rome, which I understand, but evendentially not ALL TRAINS.

Yesterday I chose to hang out in Pavia a bigger city to recover from my heat stroke (like the Italians I like to exxagerate), update me blog and then take a train out of the city stopping 8 - 12 km before my next stop St Christina.

Some say using a train is cheating (Sandra, I wont mention names if you dont!), but for me theis pilgrimmage is not just a spiritual journey, or a physical journey, it is also a cultural one. I wanted to meet Switzerland and mainly Italy. So taking public transport is a huge way of life here, and in some ways more of a challenge than walking with a guide.

I must be able to comnmunicate clearly and understand the responses. Where am i going? Which train? What platform? Is there on train direct or do I have to connect? Each a lòesson in anxiety.

So in the station, I get it pretty clearly that my train leaves Bannerio 1 at 13:30. No problem....one would think. But as I sat on this train for 30 minutes, I realized I should be there by now and next thing I know, I ended up in Milan and in the subway....OH SHIESHA!

I hopped off, and thought momentarily about staying, but knew I had a reservation, so I went to a automatic train machine...MORE ANXIETY and puchased a ticket back to Pavia and the train arrived within 10 m inutes, and so back to the beginning I went.

When I got there I asked the same questions, but for the next train to St Christina and I learned there are two platform 1...1 and 1Trezzo. Mine was the 1-trezzo - which also happened to be behind contruction fencing making it look out of order.

Anyway off to St Christina, this time no hitches and I just take the train all the way. I am actually quite proud of my mastering the accident! I also stopped by the Basilica of St Michael...yup that be me!

I spend the night in another Pilgrim Hostile (FREE) but though the peeps were nice it was over a sort of teen rec center which didnt close untill 11 and teens are loud...not a nice night.