Day 26: June 29: St jean Pied de Port >> Mountain Top & Return (18 km)

THE END: A MAGICAL FINISH

Todays Pics

Everything seemed to become laced with meaning today - and really began last night. So much of today was surreal and much of it felt like a dream, but Im getting ahead of myself...

For most of this journey, believe it or not, I was usually the youngest or one of the youngest people in the groups we met or stayed with along the way - not by much mind you, but generally this was so. Last night, the tables turned - I slept in a Gites with five others -- all of whom I am safely at least double their age. This became the first awareness - much like aging where sometimes I see younger people with a bit of nostalgia or jealousy, these young pilgrims just about to begin their first journey made me long for the naivete of my own such journey and also jealous that I was not going with them - to build new memories and friendships. There is a time you cannot get back, except in memory - and it is passed on sometimes with sadness.

We had a few good laughs and I honored them for the walk and reminded them that they will be walking in the footsteps of millions who have traveled the same road -- seeking solace or answers or forgiveness or wisdom - kings, queens, peasants and all. I also challenged them to step outside of their world and fully engage this adventure - nine years ago when I walked, few people even had cell phones with them - making it easier to truly disconnect from "one's world." But now with wifi in every gites and smart phones on every pilgrim,this is harder to do. I know for me, I wont be so connected on my next adventure. Even today I left technology behind and took my journal only.

My plan for today was to walk to the top of the mountain and return by taxi - as I have a train to catch tomorrow. So we awoke at 7, had a few more laughs - our "ZEN" house lady was a bit far from the  zen she proclaimed and got busy to go. I dropped my backpack at the taxi place for keeping during the day - and this too felt symbolic of the weight we carry in life - often symbolized bythe stones we add to our pack. It was so freeing to walk with only a small bag with water and other items. When I entered the street at 7:30, it was crazy alive with activity - most pilgrims beginning today were anxious to get on the road and were a bit chaotic.The mountain was in a foggy haze, so they had little idea visually of what was coming.

Being the seasoned pro, I headed to the cafe for a cappucino and a croissant...and even here I felt the symbolism of the walk as I sat in a cafe on a busy street with cars humming by - knowing in just moments I would "leave the world" behind for a calmer, more reflective walk in nature. Now is where it started getting weird - but in a wonderful way....

When I returned to the main street out of town for pilgrims, just 30 minutes later, there was NO ONE on the street. It is a long street with shops and normally pilgrims are filling steadily out through the day, but there was no one - it was so strange I took a picture. And I began to walk along the camino and still there was no one - it was freaky. I started to get one of those surreal feelings and imagined this might be what passing over to death would be like....taking a familiar journey one loves and seeing images of your past. This was not a scary feeling, but a comforting feeling of transitioning - not a lot different than the feeling of agin, mentioned above.

Even the tendinitus seemed to have its place - as this was the same injury I had on the first camino, that forced me to leave early friends and that I thought was going to stop me from carrying on and then had a miraculous moment on the way that still brings me close to tears. Walking without my bag was a delight and having 6 hours to complete my journey as I had a scheduled rendezvous time, allowed me to stroll through the morning. It was soon misty and foggy throughout and later I began to see pilgrims and stopped several times - once again running into my new young friends of the night before at the one cafe along the way. I am sad I did not take a photo to remember them - they were lovely.

As I continued to climb, I knew I was climbing as I stayed warm in the mist, but had no real sense of fatique or height as I began to be shrouded in the mist only seeing 30 feet in front of me and it was like walking in a dream. Its funny I had a deisre to relive my first day and its magnificent views, but there were other plans in store for me - plans that I love.

The last four miles (6km), I walk in this near blinding haze - where I can see little, but I hear the sounds of the mountain. Closer to the end, my glasses started to fog and when I took them off I did not realize how bright it was. It was such an unusual experience - and i kept thinking somehow this is like life - I cannot always see too far ahead but there is simply something I trust to get me there.

I see a young swedish man a couple of times and we speak of the walk and its light (the millions coming for answers) and its darkness (the church using the walk to raise money and power through selling forgiveness - the Disneyland of its time). We ran into each other again in the thick fog  and laughed about the shared dream we were in.

It was a lovely walk and I arrrived at the top - at a cross where I was supposed to meet the taxi - many things had been left there - it seems I am not the first pilgrim to use this as their exit. I sat down, opened a coke zero, lit a cigarette and my taxi showed up exactly as if on cue. The timing being so exact and the scene being a bit eerie, I actually jokingly asked her if she was an angel sent to take me to heaven. Her reply," Dont worry, Im a safe driver."

A lovely Basque girl, Madeleine drove me backwards through my dream - which was a new sensation and by now the fog was lifting and I could see just how high I had climbed and was so little aware of. The views were breathtaking and I took some shots, but these dont do it justice as they were from a moving vehicle.

And so just as my first pilgrimage started with a dream inspired by a book, this one ended with a dream walk. I could not be more happy, and amazed at the wonder of the world. I truly believe the world responds to us - that as we slow down and pay attention and become more intentional, what seems like magic occurs. Jung called it synchronicity...and I am humbled.

THE END!

Day 25: June 28: Lareceveau >> St jean Pied de Port (18 km)

TODAYS PICS:

Todays walk went fast - mainly as it was a short walk and I walked with a very fast Swiss guy, Johannes. When you walk and talk, time flies by. The scenery was nice, but not as nice as yesterday.

But today is sentemental as I arrive at the end of this leg at what was the city where this all began for me - St Jean Pied de Porte in 2009. The last time I was here, I had barely slept on an overnight train from Paris, got to town at 9:30 and began walking at 10 in the morning a very late start for a very tough climb -- over a mile up.

I was excited to actually see the city of my first pilgrimmage, but became disappointed as it is overflowing with tourists and pilgrims. The walk has become very poipular and this lessens the charm of this amazingly beautiful city for me. It seems the world always turns towards money and this is sometime tough for a sentemental guy.

Tomorrow I walk up the mountain, recreating my first day or at least a bit of it...I am excited for this too!

Bon Nuit!

Day 24: June 27: Aroue >> Lareceveau (22 km)

TODAYS PHOTOS:

This was an amazingly beautiful day and walk. My foot was a bit tender at first, but as it warmed up, the pain did not leave but did subside. Its weird - I am not really sure if the pain went away and I was just aware of a tight sensation; or if I have become used to pain, so that I sort of didnt recognize it at a lower level.

The hills and mountains were spectacular and there were good rests and bars along the way. I ended my day in a small village hotel, whose room was quite shabby; but the dinner was that of a top class restaurant - making me realize a difference in France....

FOOD COMES BEFORE DECOR.

I thought I would be eating alone, but i ran into two German friends - Mary Louise and Dorothe.

Tomorrow I am excited to walk to St Jean Pied de Port - the city where my first pilgrimmage begain in 2009.

Day 23: June 26: Navarrenx >> Aroue (18 km)

RECOVERY DAY -- I HOPE

Todays Pics

I have tendinitus - I have overworked the tendon on the front of my right foot and though it felt a little better when I awoke, it is stiff and a bit sore. Luckily, the next three days are all "LIGHT" days being 18, 20 and 22 km each. So I chose instead of taking a ful
l rest day - which would have been wonderful in the alchemist gites, I decided to walk - thinking the terrain was not to be so severe and the day was short - almost half of the day before.

Funny how I now think of a 11 mile walk as being a recovery day for an ankle with tendinitus.
The day was lovely and I took it slow - the first 4 km were a bit rough as I warmed up my legs and ankle, but as the day went on the pain became less, I just hope I am not aggravating the tendon.

The walk was lovely with very few hills and no really steep declines and on all declines I was very careful with my steps. I arrived at Aroue at a lovely farm gites - the family here has constructed a lovely modern gites for pilgrims with everything one could want or need at arms length, so there is no need to go anywhere, I get to just rest and relax the afternoon and evening.

This place, Gites Accueil A la Ferme Bohoteguia was amazing. The lady, Simone who runs the house prepared us a dinner beyond belief - true to french tradition - a salad plate with 4 kinds of salad, a dinner plate with veal, carrot souffle, salad, a grand cheese plate, amazing bana tore and brownie and all this after a wonderful appertif , kir  creme de casis and white wine. All of this including a private room and breakfast for 40 Euros, about $50....unbelievable!

I hope for more recovery tomorrow and the next, before I try and champion the mountain on Wednesday,

Bon Nuit!

Day 22: June 25: Arthez-de-Bearn >> Navarrenx (32 km)

THE WORST OF TIMES:

Todays Pics

The weather was good, so I felt I was in pretty good form to make yet another long day - almost 20 miles, but today was full of steep climbs and steep descents. Along the journey I have done exceptionally well - partially because I have worn support on my knees and ankles everyday (COPPER COMPRESSION) and have remained focused and conscius especially when going downhills.

Today there were four major climbs followed by steep descents, and interestingly for the first time I really enjoyed the invigorating challenge of the climbs. Normally I am not over enthusiastic about climbing hills, but today found them challenging in a way that gave me energy to push through them. It is so satisfying to be able to do a large climb and though certainly my heart rate raises as does my body temeperature and breathing, but to be able to do the entire hill in one go without losing my breath - having a strong and steady pace and conquering the hill.

Perhaps it was this spirit of conquer that led me to a foolish mistake and my first injury. The first steep descent was mainly street and I went at it faster than I normally do, and stressed out the tendon on the front of my right ankle. I think the stress might have been ok, and might have easily recovered if I did not have another 25km (15 miles) and 3 more stepp descents. By the end of the day, my ankle was slightly inflamed and I was exhausted, hobbling into town after an 8-hour ordeal with painful steps most of the way,

The horrible day, had a nice ending with a wonderfully unique and spirtual Gites in this ancient town. It was run in the ancient tradition of supporting pilgrims - there was no charge, only a box if one is able and willing to donate to cover the costs. Two pilgrims, Manuel and Patrice, ran the gites and were lovely and entertaining and also incredible cooks - even carving momentos of the walk into the food - check out the pics! They washed, dried and folded everyones clothes - again for free and then provided us an incredible meal and wine.

This was a favorite stop along the way and a way to wash away the difficulties of earlier...

Bon nuit!

Day 21: June 24: Arzacq-Arraziguet >> Arthez-de-Bearn (27 km)

A PERFECT DAY.

Todays Photos

I dont think there could have been a more perfect pilgrim day. After two days of near oppressive heat (93 + degrees); the day began overcast and in the high 60's -- perfect walking weather. It was a lovely path with challenging climbs at the beginning and end of the day, with wonderful views and scenery along the path. A number of pilgrim messages  - including a heart of stones and a pilgrim tree. Also along the way was a wonderful pilgrim park set up with hammocks, loungy chairs and tables - the only regret was I stopped about 100 yards before this park for a break on a bleak stone bench, so did not get to stop and truly enjoy....and a nap would have been lovely.

I met another couple of German ladys over lunch at a lovely epicerie full of wonderful foods and drinks and had a lovely curry chicken kebab.

The day ended at a lovely city high on a hil - like living in the clouds. lthe Gites Communal - pilgrim hostiles set up by the local community, I have found these to mostly be incredibly wonderful places to stay - and this on

e was no exception - with a lovely glass dining area next to the kitchen and a washer and dryer - THANK GOD as I have not done laundry in a week -- and I am wearing the SAME CLOTHES every day,

Two pilgrim friends were with me, Odele from Strasbourg, France, and Josef from germany. I bought some lovely cooked chicken breats in the market and some vegetables and had a really lovely and inexpensive dinner and evening.

Bon Nuit!

Day 20: June 23: Aire sur L'adore >> Arzacq-Arraziguet (34 km)

JUST KEEP SWIMMING

PHOTOS

Another fricking long day, but only myself to blame...I was doing so good in the morning that I kept deciding to go one and ended up in a village 20 miles later.

Part of this is that there are poor services/ not much in many of the villages along the way, so I kept going from the first one at 18 to the next bar which only occured at 34 km.

This morning it was nice as it was foggy, so I walked fast and finished 18 km in about 3.5 hours; but was exhausted when I got into this town at 11:00. Since it was so early, I laid down in the shade for 30 minutes and recharged then walked on.

The sun kept getting hotter and the paths unshaded, so I took my umbrella and used it as a parasol - a french word by the way. This got quite a few looks, but worked for most of the way.

This worked until the last 3 km when I ran out of water and was beginning to dehydrate, so hitch hiked into town with a nice young lad, Sara.

Day 19: June 22: Nogaro >> Aire sur L'adore (33 km)

STOP & SMELL THE ROSES

PHOTOS

Another long day, though mostly flat lands, with a few smaller intermittent climbs. Knowing this I decided to leave early as also the temperature has gone from the 70's to 95 today and the same for tomorrow. Thus I started walking early with a strong stride. I had done about 12 of the 33 km when I realized all my energy and thoughts were focused on where I was going and when I would get there. In this moment I was in a lovely forest and reminded myself of the earlier thoughts along the way....THAT WHEN I CAN STOP THINKING ABOUT WHERE IM GOING, I CAN BETTER FOCUS ON WHERE I AM.

Interestingly as often happens in life, with new realizations come new gifts, as I exited the forest, I could see the snow-capped Pyrenees in the distance - which is my ending point.

Later in the day the route became flat but all open with no shade and this caused me to lose all energie on the last 4 miles and just drag my but into town.

After a lonely day in town, I found some pilgrims along the way - Jill from Austrailia and Vinny and Trish from America,

Day 18: June 21: Eauze >> Nogaro (20 km)

TODAYS PICS

Funny, today's 12 miles should have been much easier than yesterdays 20, but I decided to go slow to NOT arrive too early in the ending point, which made me actually more tired.

Its funny but if I walk too slow, then I begin to feel tired. With a healthy pace, I feel energized. Of course today is also the first day without rain and the first day to climb out of the 70s - so this added some too.

The path was generally nice - forests and fields. The hills are getting smaller, so the walk is getting easier this way too. I should be in good shape to end in Spain as hoped.

I met a new Pilgrim, Arnold, who walked from his home in Geneva Switzerland and is walking all the way to Santiago...did I mention he's 74.

The downside is, I think I lost some more pilgrim friends, Dandelion has moved ahead and Siggy is behind and not likely we will meet again -- always the sad parts of a camino...

Ah so is life!

Bon Nuit!

Day 17: June 20: Condom >> Eauze (34 km)

TODAYS PICS:

Today was a lovely day for a walk. Waking early in Condom (sorry couldnt resist), I had a lovely buffet breakfast at the hotel - one of the highlights of hotel visits - including fresh warm croissants, fruit, cereal, yogurt and more. Often at Gites, its yesterday's bagette, some jam and a coffee and juice.

The path today was wonderful, including a nice forest path to get out of the city. With less rain, there were only a few muddy bits - easy to get around and generally pleasant walking. As such, I chose to do another long day - 20 miles.

The last seven km were along a old railway making them flat, shady and a bit boring.

I met some women from South Africa and a pair of young men, one from Holland and one from Germany. There are not many young people here, so it is nice to see them.

I mainly walked alone and enjoyed the scenery and meditation. At night we shared a pilgrims meal and had a lively discussion of god and things - an interesting feat in three languages.

Bon Nuit

Day 16: June 19: Lectoire >> Condom (21 km)

FEELING SAFE IN CONDOM    - LOL
SHORT CUT....           
TODAYS PICS

Today, dandelion, myself and Siggy took a shortcut, but following the road from Lectoire to Condom, turning a 34k walk into a 21k one.

It was an easy walk in some ways - all hilly, but no mud today. The hard part was that there were no stops or services for the first 15km, so we walked strong and steady for three hours - i normally like to break after two hours at most.

At 16 km we entered the first town along the route and recharged at the local cafe, before arriving in Condom - YES THAT IS CORRECT. I am not sure if it is related to the product or not - you google it. I did learn that NYLON is so named because it was a product created in part by Americans and the English, hence the name.

Most of today, Dandelion and I kept making bad jokes about entering Condom, etc. But this also helped the time go by faster.

We arrived in Condom, had a great lunch and then each booked a hotel room for the night! My room overlooks the VERY COLD pool.

My french is getting stronger and I am enjoying being here and speaking the language!

Bon nuit!

Day 15: June 18: Auvillar >> Lectoire (33km)

LONGEST DAY YET:      TODAYS PICS:

So last night at the Gites (Pilgrim Hotel), I rand into "Dandelion", an Austrailian I had briefly met earlier along the way as he had made friends with others that I was friends with. I also rand into a lovely lady named Josey (Josey & the Pussycats) who I had met earlier as well. She is another inspriation to me, she is tiny and in her 60's or 70's and every night I see her inthe kitchen, she obviously walks with some pain, but she continues on through the hills and mud and more. A few  days ago, I came up her "stealing" cherries in a cherry orchard, it was so cute , her look of guilt and surprise. .

I also met a couple new pilgrim friends, Jill a cattle farmer from Austrailia and Lucy (lulu) & Bernarhd from France. I nicknamed her Lucille Ball - it helps to create nicknames when meeting new people to remember their names. It turns out Lucy works in the Lindt Choclate factory, so I found the famous lucy clip in the chocolate factory and shared with her.

There was a nusical festival in town in the evening where they served TEX-MEX Barbecue - now aint that a shit!'

Today I started walking with Dandelion, and was quite surprised when he took his shorts off once we got outside the village - he likes to walk in his biking shorts, and keep  his shorts clean - as I believe he has only one set of clothes. He is taking a year sabbatical from his life and work - to find himself - and doing this by stripping away all but the essentials - hence the clothing is a metaphor for this.

He walks with a steady and strong pace, and the day went by fast as we seemed to talk the entire way through. At 23 km, we stopped in a lovely small village for an omellette. This was meant to be my ending point, but I decided to continue on with him and to my surprise, I finished strong  - tired, but strong.

Most of the day was nice paths, and just a few with the mud like before, we made good time and after a 8 hour walk ended up in Lectoire - another beautiful village on top of a hill. And to my surprise, Siggy was in our Gites - a great reunion. A fun time at the bar, an interesting pilgrim dinner in our Gites - which was hosted by the church - bed, dinner and breakfast were their gift to us; yet a donation was suggested. There was a young seminarian studying IT at the university and also while also pursing priesthood - interesting.

A great night sleep ensued to an easier day tomorrow....

Bon Nuit!

Day 14: June 17: Moissac >> Auvillar (23km)

Not much to report. Today was the easiest day by far - almost all flat - walking along a canal, with a small hill to city on top of hill at end. Highlight was catching up with Agnes again.

It's weird, but the monotony of the same view creates some psychology of not moving as the scenary never changes.

Perhaps more to report tomorrow as there is a festival in the city tonight.

Day 13: June 16: Lauzerte >> Moissac (27 km)

NEVER FORGET ALL CAN CHANGE IN A MOMENT...

TODAYS PICS:

The day started lovely with nice sun and clouds and a nice pilgrim breakfast together...but man I would have loved some bacon. The house lady was so kind and nice and felt like a family member - it was so kind for her to let me stay in the house last night, but alas I have lost Siggy.

With so much rain last night - and all week, though it was awesome to watch it coming in from such a great view and height, it once again made today incredibly difficult and challenging - on a day with long mileage and many climbs and descents.

I made some good time this morning, by avoiding the paths and tking nearby roads, but about two hours in I made a bad call in not taking the path and thinking I could divert around it. This added about 3 miles to my day and I had to backtrack and take the path - the worst I have ever seen, I was just slipping and sliding and am surprised I did not end up on my arse..which reminds me of another story and city, but that will come later...Montcuq.

After 14 km, I found a direct road to the ending point for today, Moissac, the D16 - a road that was direct and not too much traffic, but dangerous curves now and again. It was an additional 13km to Moissac and I began walking - energy ok, but feet sore from all the walking and the now road walking. After walking for about 3 hours, my head just wasnt in the game - I wasnt sure how much further and was junst mentally whining inside.

Reminded of the kind stranger and the ride of yesterday, on an impulse as a car was passing I stook out my thumb and nothing happened, 30 seconds later I tried again and this time got picked up...and there was already one other pilgrim in the car. A kind lady and her son took the two muddy pilgrims to Moissac. I am so glad to because Moissac is relatively large and spread out and it was another 2-3km from city edge to city center which would have really dragged on me.

I want to remember this quick change - for other times in my life when things arent going well - there is always hope for something different - and perhaps most times it startes when I do something different - even something simple like sticking out my thumb. It actually was kind of exciting - I have never hitch hiked before....so now I think Im way cool - it a fun adventure - if a little anticlimatic - not sure exactly what I was expecting.

Upon being dropped off and much happier now, I decided it was time for my weekly traet of a hotel and using booking.com, I found a cheap room with breakfast in town. - $56. The Hotel Napolean. Upon arrival, the Hotelier, Gabby, just took amazing care of me, providing me a great room, a drink, and even taking my muddy clothes and washing them for me - OOO LALA. But the best part was, there is a fricking HOT TUB here!!!!!

After showering with my shoes on - yes they were horrible, and a great nap and hot tub sit, I had a nice italian pizza dinner and then surprisingly the church had a special concert tonight - youth choirs from New York City and Toulose joined together for a gospel concert. There I met up with some pilgrim friends - again several who were ending here - a sad and bittersweet moment.

Bon Nuit!

Day 12: June 15: Lascabanes >> Lauzerte (24 km)

TODAYS PICS

Such a strange day...a day of little bits of magic, little bits of kindness, moments with new friends and one of the messiest and hardest days I have had on "The Way."

I slept well and late (6:00) and for the past 4-5 nights we have been in quiet rooms - few to no snorers, which is a blessing in itself. Today is a wee long day, made more difficult by the constant climb and descents. The other element that added the difficulty as these were certainly not the highest, Ive had is the amount of mud present from all the constant rain.

Although today was largely clear, I did not hit any rain at all, the way was muddy, so even flat paths through fields and forests were difficult to manage. This is NOT about staying clean, but about not having solid footing. The best way to walk a continuous walk like these is to have a good and steady pace - and with mud, you either slip or sink causing constant changes to your pace and also draining some of your energy.

I crossed paths with Damien and Agnes on the way and we stopped for our lunch together - sitting alongside the road. Agnes (AN-YES) is amazing, she is in her 70s, had both feet operated upon (she told me she is walking on new feet) and is walking all the way. It reminds me how life is often more about our will, than our circumstances...a lesson perhaps we all should heed.

Several times today, I was treated with what I call little magic moments. Once as I walked out of a forest path and into a field, I could see a horse and rider a good ways away as they were black against a pale yellow field and they were not riding but dancing...like horses you see in a circus or show - it was aquite unique show for me alone. Later I passed them on the route and I guess he was training it to walk in different ways. About 30 minutes later a small owl landed about 15 feet from me on a fence.

Later as I approached the Lauzerte, where I would sleep tonight, I could see it was atop the hill/ mountain and my heart sank a little realizing I would have to climb this to get there. This was a regular thing when I walked in Italy as it seems all the villages practically were on top of hills and mountains - which makes a tough end to the day. As I approached the bottom of thie city and was about to begin climbing, a young man stopped his car and asked if I was going to the top and then gave me a ride. This was a treat.

Unfortunately later when I arrived at the Gites for the night, I found I had no reservation - I am not sure exactly what happened, but the lady I spoke to in the morning did not tell the Gites and it was full. They let me stay by putting a mattress in the lounge - which suits me fine as I have a room alone tonight, but Siggy had to find another place and so now we have to find each other again.

The day ended with an awesome storm that was cool to watch roll in from such a great vantage point.  Bon Nuit!

Day 11: June 14: Cahors >> Lascabanes (22km)

TODAYS PICS:

Our Gites washed our clothes yesterday and we had a touristy day in the city. I slept very well - think I am getting used toi this family style living - I think the multiple beers helped. With a steady misty rain, a fresh warm croissant and a nice cappucino in my belly, I began another trying day.

Today we left the city on an amazing bridge from th middle ages - incredibly beautiful, and immediately after climbed almost vertically about 200 m - which is about 600 feet - did I mention it was raining. Good thing I dont have vertigo. It was a long morning with no services, until I came across this charming Gites in the middle of nowhere and had a lovely second coffee and snacks - including fresh cherries off the tree next to me.

Walking on the day was long and had one more cafe stop, before a long 12 km walk with no stops and veryy muddy paths - my boots gained a few pounds in different sections. Tired and sore, the highlight of the day came in the Gites - very nice and well appointed with many self service options - food, laundry, beer, etc. And an afternoon spent making two new friends, Agnes who has spent her life working as a nurse around the world including some pretty dangerous places in Africa; and Damion a young french EMT. It was lovely to dialog with them in french and to laugh through a wonderful dinner together - another one of my loves of the way.

Tomorrow looks to be an even more challenging day as more rain is expected as the terrain is to be more difficult.

Bon Nuit!

Day 10: June 13: Grealou >> Cahors (40km)

TODAYS PICS

Awoke in the witch house to a meal of hard bread and coffee, not surprising. And then left for a morning walk through the rain. It was not especially difficult, though there were some difficult downs.

It is a bit disconnected to be here and know of the situation in Orlando - I suppose it was a bit like Paris for us - we saw it on the news but it was another land. Combining this with me being disconnected from media leaves me a bit hollow, but perhaps there is a lesson in this too, about how we are so manipulated and over-stimulated by the media. It is a struggle to feel connected and to continue....

The first cafe was in a larger town of Carjac, about 14 km away. Boy was I glad to see this sign...can you tell why?

When I arrived there and had a nice croissant and cappucino, I realized our endpoint was still over 20km away which would make for an especially difficult day.

So I awaited for Siggy to arrive and we decided to check out some local transport options and decided to take the bus to Cahors, one of the biggest cities along the way, and that would put me back on schedule to finish in Roncevalles Spain, the first city in Spain on June 29.

My wish has always been for this journey that my last day travel on this way, is the same as the first day travel on my first pilgrimmage.

So with about 30km by bus we arrived in the lovely city surrounded on three sides by a river and enjoyed another half-day vacation in the city.

Bon Nuit!

Day 9: June 12: Figeac >> Grealou (21km)

SO "THE WAY" IS JUST LIKE LIFE - SOME GOOD DAYS AND SOME NOT.

TODAYS PICS

The night in hotel was awesome - and the breakfast buffet SUPERB! I had the choice of everything as I rise early to the smell of warm croissants and have a hearty breakfast for me with fruit, juice, cappucino, some cheese and mueslix and I think this charged me for the day.

The walk was a little strneuous at times - and will be everyday as this route is through the mountains entirely, but mostly it was nice ridge paths with lovely views, and most importantly cafes along the way. A midday coffee does wonders for picking up one's energy.

I have often felt, that the intensity of the experience of walking these paths and the insights they provide, is not different than what is available in each of our lives - just here without the many distractions (TV, internet, job, etc) and choices and task we have to do that it allows a space to pay attention to what is going on inside of me. Here I have only a couple choices - walk or rest - walk or eat - when to stopp for day - it is a freedom from the world I live in that provides me the chance to look inside with greater intensity.

I took nice rests every couple of hours and came upon a cafe in the middle of nowhere, which had lovely salads, meals beers and coffees, but only had the coffee as I had miles to go. I lost my friend, Siggy today, as we stayed in different places, but as luck would have it, she arrived at the house I stopped to stay about 15 minutes after I arrived.


My energy stayed light and strong, allowing me to enjoy the day. I arrived at a small village, Graelou, my ending spot for the day and found a charming little Gites in an old house hundreds of years old, that is like something from Hansel & Gretel, looked ver by two ladies, who do seem a bit like witches - one good and one a little grumpy. They all speak German here - an oddity, which only adds to the mystery.


At dinner I was chastised by the BAD WITCH for touching the wine before I was given permission , and the "RULES" only one glass, all others must be paid for...LOL. The dinner was hearty and followed by a lovely dessert, but breakfast this morning is nothing but old bread, coffee and juice...but the hexes (witches) are gone....at least I think they are - I hope they have cast no spell.

ONLY LOVE IS REAL, EVERYTHING ELSE (NO MATTER WHAT FORM IT TAKES) IS A CRY FOR HELP. - ACIM

My heart and prayers to the US, Orlando and tout le monde!

Bon Nuit!