Tuesday I passed the 100KM (60 miles) Marker for Rome in Montefisciano.
WED. JULY 2: Viterbo to Sutri: Mini Vacation:Last night, Once again I fell in love with the big city at night. And Viterbo is extra special because being a fortified city (walled), the old city is really cut off from the new part. But true to form wondering around in the afternoon, the city piazzas and cafes are largely vacant. Most shops are closed from 1 - 4pm, and everyone does something...you know I am not really sure what they do...I would guess rest for the evening. But about 4:30, people start reappearing first the shoppers, then the cafe and restaurant goers, though dinner is NEVER before 7:00 and really not before 8:00. The other cool thing about Vitterbo is it is a frickin maze of streets in the old part, I felt like I was a rat in an experiment and got lost multiple times.
Today, I had the choice of a VERY LOONG DAY (24 miles) with an unmarked path and two very different directions from Ostellos or take the train out of the city and do a shorter walk. I took the vacation option and did a lil shopping before I left. I sort of have two identities here. When I walk into town, I am an oddity and most people stare a little. They know I am a pilgrim, but I am this hodge-podge of images that stick out - specifically my bright shirt, cowboy hat and "bastillion" (walking stick that I picked up in the forest on my first days of walking). One I get to the Ostello and shower, I become the TOURIST, again sticking out a little less, as I have no street clothes. So today, I picked up a trendy pair of shorts and a shirt - that I think make me belend a lil more...and these become my souvenirs.
So after shopping (and almost going to McDonalds - homesick), I took the train out of the city and then walked about 10 miles to Sutri, another hilltop city - the benefit though I realize is the nights are cooler and the views better. I stayed in an Ostello run by nuns and interestingly the entire transactions were done at the drive up nun window - so to speak. I had to speak to the nun through an enclosure and exchange money and my credentiale through a window that had like a rolling barrel - I judge the precursor to drive thru banking. I was given a private "cell" - a small room which is normally the space for a nun or monk. It was very nice.
As the Ostello did not open til 3:30 and I arrived about 1:00, I had a nice salad for lunch at a restaurant with a wonderful terrace overlooking the mountains and valleys. I later returned for a pizza for dinner and watched the sun set. BTW PIZZA IS THE ITALIAN THING. Pizza is to Italy what burgers are to the USA. Everytown has multiple pizzerias and they are all like the ones at the beach - ultra thin crust. After lunch I sat in the central piazza - largely vacant and read awhile - just finished GREAT EXPECTATIONS - loved it (and losing the 2 lbs from my pack). Later in the evening when I came out, of course the square is full. I love these social people and wish we had some of their habits....
THURS JULY 3: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma:Despite being sluggish this morning, I seemed to get my Pilgrim feet back - or rather my pilgrim mindset and throughout was present for the morning walk. Over the past week or two, I have either been focused on getting to Rome - losing sight of the journey for the focus on the destination or just homesick and ready to finish - more focused on counting miles or days, than paying attention to THE DAY or MOMENT. Some days, my adventure felt more like a job than a vacation. I think both these sentiments are normal in all our lives, and for me the key was to give myself a break - either an actual break (day on beach; shopping; a train or bus day; etc.) or just a break and let me mentally whine for awhile. I think this is equally important to do in our "REAL" lives - pay attention to when our stress is high or our routine has become too routine, and give ourselves a break.
The morning was lovely and the paths were not overly strenuous, and before i realized it I had walked over 10km (6 miles) in under 2 hours - which amazes me as I felt I was "strolling" at a relaxed pace, yet this is one of my quickest rates. I walked between two olive orchards, and loved how the owners planted flowers sporatically along the fence line as well. And so I rewarded myself with a cream-filled croissant and a second cappucino!Not doing a long day - 0nly 23km - 14 miles - I arrived soon after 11, to a city on a hill, so the ending was a bit more strenuous. A nice shower, a not so nice room, but it will do, a sporty new outfit and a tour of the town. Looking forward to dinner tonight - the local restaurant does a pilgrim meal for 9€ ($12).
Tomorrow I head to La Storta, my last stop before Rome. And sadly I read the last day walking is not very nice - but I guess to be expected - walking into a large city. If it was not my last day...I'd take the train!!! Even so, I should arrive in Roma, before noon on Saturday.
I booked a nice hotel throu the internet for Saturday and Sunday nights, so tomorrow night is my last Ostello also - which is fine by me - I keep being the subject of bites, even though I am not sure when or where they get me, just everyday I discover a new itch or two!
No comments :
Post a Comment