DAY 48: 5 July: La Storta to Roma (22km - 13 miles - 673 total)

ARRIVA - ARRIVA - mia ultima gioni a pelligrino 
(I have arrived - my last day as a pilgrim)!!!

Last night I had a lil adventure finding dinner. Believe it or not, I ate at McDonalds - its the homesickness thing. I saw a sign coming into LaStorta indicating it was 3 minutes away, and saw a similar sign right in front of my Ostello,. But the amusing part is it took me about an hour or so to find it and an extra mile of walking as I kept going back and forth....funny how I can walk across part of a continent, but cant find McDonalds -  which ended up being on the same road as my Ostello!!!!

I started the day early as is my custom and took a photo before I left - though in one I already look tired - perhaps as I did not have my prima colazione (breakfast - but more importantly coffe yet!). I also took a pic of my normal Italian breakfast (cappucino and croissant with crema). The walk this morning had some surprisingly lovely bits before I hit the city, then it was a bit overwhelming, but easy to follow. I walked through a lovely forested area, then on top of a hill overlooking all of Rome.

I wanted to be really present this morning, so I put on a selection of favorite songs. As I neared the end of my journey, my emotions came bubbling forth and one of the things that age has given me is recognizing that allowing these to come forth and not stifle them is a tremendous gift to me. So I focused on no one, and just let the tears and emotion come forth.

As I rounded the corner for the PORTO ANGELICA - the song BE STILL (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHlbnNUHQGI) came on which just touched my heart even more and allowed my gratitude for this adventure to overflow. I felt like a salmon going up stream to get thru the porto as crowds were walking at me. I made no eye contact and just let my eyes tear up and recall the challenges and triumphs of this journey.

But even more amazing is that as I walked thru the port and into St Peters Square, the song that helped me get up that damn mountain came on - "Can't Give Up Now" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37PCbh9KppA). This song is like 5 minutes long and I just stood in the center of St Peters Square and cried and laughed and snotted and all....it was a wonderful celebration of this journey and my adventure thru all of life. It was so perfectly timed, that it makes me believe in somthing bigger than me that has walked with me every step......

At the end of the song, I found the stones I carried the entire journey (its a pilgrim thing - about letting go of the burdens you carry or something like this) and the stones I carried for one of my greatest mentors in life - my first boss after college, Pam Watson, who taught me so much about what it means to be a leader and this does not stop us from being human and kind and ourselves....I would carry a BOULDER FOR HER!!! So with prayers for me and Pam, I placed my stones and her's near the center tower in St Peters Square - except for the one with the heart - this I bring home to Pam!

The line to visit the Basilica of St Peter was about a 1/4 mile long, but for Pilgrims, we get to go around back so to speak. After my rucksack was scanned (like the airport), I was taken in  a back gate passed thru the Swiss Guard and then led into a private office, where I took a quick selfie and was worried I might get arrested - so I did it quick. Then I received my official Testimonium and my stamp. I was hoping to get in to the Basilica too, but this did not happen.

Upon leaving, I went to find my hotel -- amusingly this took me almost as long as to get to Rome...its a huge and confusing town. I have just arrived at the hotel - with computers and my own room and bath.

It has been an amazing journey - one I will never forget....in a couple of days, I will write one more time...a reflection of this, but for now...a shower, a nap, some trendy (and NON STINKY) clothes and a lil exploration.

Ciao!

DAY 47: Juy 4: Campignola di Roma to La Storta (28km - 17 m - 660 total)

I feel like I am in Rome already - there is much more going on here as LaStorta is on one of the main highways into Roma, so really is like a suburb. In fact, I walked right past it and had to back track as there was no clear indication of a town, but I get ahead of myself....

Yesterday was typical italian Pelligrino day for me. After arriving in town and finding Ostello, a community service building - not so nice, but sfficed. I walked about town, found internet, updated blog, had a lil refreshment, a lil nap back into town for cena (dinner - pronounced Chain-a), I finished my Henry James Book (Turning of the Screw) and realized I am not a fan of Henry James, but love his brother William James, one of Americas foremost philosphers of his age. He also wrote one of the first scientific journal on psychology, but I digress.

I awoke this morning with more bites (many), and ths has been gong on for the last few days. If they are mosquito bites, then the mosquitos near rome are quiet and stealth - much like the pickpockets Rome is famous for....I will be holding tight to my wallet and my bag!!!! My fear is that they are bed bugs I have picked up along the way and may now live in my sleeping bag - so no more sleeping bag...luckily tonight is my last night in Ostello...4 star hotel in Roma for Saturday and Sunday night!

The walk today was long and difficult - mainly due to a stretch of 8 miles with no services and little shade and today was hot and still - very little breeze. But there were many lovely parts - including having to cross a river and a tunnel thru the forest. The morning walk started with a 2 mile climb, then I thought I might bypass more climbs by sticking to the road. This I did, but added another 2
miles to my day....AAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!

After this LONG short-cut, I decided to stick to the path and follow the guide and waymarks. It was more climbs, but some great views and occassional shade. In the middle of the 8-mle stretch, I passed a model airplane club's flying spot, which had a covered area and some chairs, so with the coke zero I brought along, I made my own cafe. Smart thnking.

The end of the 8 mile stretch wasa mile walk up. By this time my water was depleted - only about 1/4 bottle left and very warm. When I reached the top I was spent -  looked at my hands and my fingers were wrinkled from slight dehydration and I was spent (with still 3 more miles to go). I desprately needed a shady spot to sit and at this point there is a suggestion to deviate from the route and climb a hill to see a church (Are you fricking kidding me?!?), but I noticed in that direction was some stairs in the shade and I thought perfect - when I got to the stairs - about 50 feet away and up - I realized this was the church with a lovely shaded square, benches - and even better a fountain...and its water was SO COLD. PILGRIM RESCUE. I sat - drank a LITER of COLD water and had an orange. 3 miles to go.


As I started to walk, back in the sun, I realized I was better, but still fatiqued, so I thought I would listen to music to hopefully incentivize me. It helped a little, then my friend from Dallas who is a singer song-writer, Kerri Arrista came on. Kerri's song "Walk Beside Me" (which is really called Michael's song - because she wrote it as an assignment for a class I led in creativity - how we met - but I digress again). Check out Kerri's song with my thoughts and pics of my last pilgrimage at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP2-SCh2B0Y.

 When Kerri's song came on, I happened to look up and a house about 100 yards in front of me had the laundry out and flapping in the wind was a Hello Kitty towel - Kerri is a HUGE Hello Kitty Fan. And this little bit of connection inspired me and charged me. It is amazing the power of the mind. I suddenly was full of energy - that led to me realizing how close I am, how far I have come and I kid you not, I DANCED the last 3. Actually I danced the last 3.25, as I was so busy dancing that I walked right past the town.

Turn around, find a bar, have a celebratory Pelligrino Lemon (an Italian Lemon malt drink) much more refreshing than beer. Got directions to the Ostello and was happy to find a park-like Oasis in this busy lil town. I took a shower and fell dead asleep fr an hour as my head hit the pillow.  So now I am up for the evening, and though you have seen the Plgrim Mikelly many times, I thought I would show you the new, stylish touristy version! I am saving the REAL CHIC stuff for Roma...




Finally as I was walking to Internet, I saw this sign for Roma - the lil circle means the "center"....

NEXT STOP ROMA and the Vatican!

OBSERVATION: Convenience over Community?

From my blogs, you probably have gotten the sense that the Italy I have grown fond of is more in smaller and medium villages and cities, than in the larger ones and that I have become fascinated by the social nature of the people and how their architecture and business supports this (piazzas, fountains, cafes, etc.). And I wonder if we have traded convenience for connection and community.

When you walk through most villages, you pass small shops - paniteria (bakery), cafes, bars, gelateria (ice cream - my favorite), macileria (sp? - butcher), alimentaria (gen grocer), tabacherie (misc & bus tickets), among others. None is overly busy, though sometimes about 4:30 the pharmacia seems to always get a line. But even the nature of businesses being locally run and owned contributes to supporting this social life.

I remember as a young boy in the early 70's, my hometown of less than 500 had two general - grocery stores - Buckworths (which also had a meat dept- butcher in the back) and Berthas. I loved buckworths, because they had a large glass case that was the checkout counter full of candy. To my eyes this was the world and I loved going in there and always hoped my mom or dad would relent and allow me one - most times they did (as I was always better behaved than my siblings!) I also remember a boyhood friend, Earl Pierce, who I thought was the luckiest guy in the world as he lived just 2 blocks from Buckworths and could go there EVERYDAY, while we lived so far away in the country (about a mile - funny how a mile aint so much to me right now!!!).

Berthas is a little store, I always remember as no one ever being in there, and Miss Bertha being an ancient large woman. She had candy, but not quite the display of Buckworths. I remember my mom and dad each on their own stopping at Berthas to buy bread or milk or something - whether we needed it or not, not because they are SOCIALISTS, but because they were Bertha's NEIGHBOR and friend and wanted to support her as much as they could.

In the 1960's, my grandfather who was a farmer and who sold fish out of his truck on  Saturday mornings to make ends meet, somehow found the capital and drive to open his own place - Bailey's Little Market - which was a general store that also carried fish and seafood (and in winter muskrats and coons). I remeber this store fondly - buying a quarters worth of candy and getting a dime in change from my grandpa. I see him sitting in the back of the store with four or five older men, just hanging about. By the 80's the store had largely changed into a seafood market and restaurant, not so much hanging out.

All of those memories of mine are now history - none exist anymore, and a Walmart Supercenter is now about 5 miles away.  When I walk thru Italy, I see community, and sturcutres that support community, and I see my past and what I believe is largely the past of the USA. When I sit in a cafe in the evening, I am alone usually - and it feels lonely. And I think how wonderful if my town at home was like this - whenever it was evening, I could just stroll out and bump into friends and family and catch up. But its not so easy now...ever tried to find something (let alone someone) in a Walmart?

There's an old story that goes if you put a frog in boiling water, he jumps out immediately, but if you put him in cool water and slowly heat it, he relaxes and then gets cooked. I feel sad, because I do think in someways, we are COOKED. And as I walked thru Italy's towns and villages - all too often I see new SUPERMERCARDOS (Coop, Conrad, Gulliver) popping up, and I hope that 50 years from now an Italian boy is not writing of his Bertha!

DAYS 45 - 46: Viterbo - Campagnano di Roma (33km - 20 miles - 643 Total)

Tuesday I passed the 100KM (60 miles) Marker for Rome in Montefisciano.





WED. JULY 2: Viterbo to Sutri: Mini Vacation:
Last night, Once again I fell in love with the big city at night. And Viterbo is extra special because being a fortified city (walled), the old city is really cut off from the new part. But true to form wondering around in the afternoon, the city piazzas and cafes are largely vacant. Most shops are closed from 1 - 4pm, and everyone  does something...you know I am not really sure what they do...I would guess rest for the evening. But about 4:30, people start reappearing first the shoppers, then the cafe and restaurant goers, though dinner is NEVER before 7:00 and really not before 8:00. The other cool thing about Vitterbo is it is a frickin maze of streets in the old part, I felt like I was a rat in an experiment and got lost multiple times.

Today, I had the choice of a VERY LOONG DAY (24 miles) with an unmarked path and two very different directions from Ostellos or take the train out of the city and do a shorter walk. I took the vacation option and did a lil shopping before I left. I sort of have two identities here. When I walk into town, I am an oddity and most people stare a little. They know I am a pilgrim, but I am this hodge-podge of images that stick out - specifically my bright shirt, cowboy hat and "bastillion" (walking stick that I picked up in the forest on my first days of walking). One I get to the Ostello and shower, I become the TOURIST, again sticking out a little less, as I have no street clothes. So today, I picked up a trendy pair of shorts and a shirt - that I think make me belend a lil more...and these become my souvenirs.

So after shopping (and almost going to McDonalds - homesick), I took the train out of the city and then walked about 10 miles to Sutri, another hilltop city - the benefit though I realize is the nights are cooler and the views better. I stayed in an Ostello run by nuns and interestingly the entire transactions were done at the drive up nun window - so to speak. I had to speak to the nun through an enclosure and exchange money and my credentiale through a window that had like a rolling barrel - I judge the precursor to drive thru banking. I was given a private "cell" - a small room which is normally the space for a nun or monk. It was very nice.

As the Ostello did not open til 3:30 and I arrived about 1:00, I had a nice salad for lunch at a restaurant with a wonderful terrace overlooking the mountains and valleys. I later returned for a pizza for dinner and watched the sun set. BTW PIZZA IS THE ITALIAN THING. Pizza is to Italy what burgers are to the USA. Everytown has multiple pizzerias and they are all like the ones at the beach - ultra thin crust. After lunch I sat in the central piazza - largely vacant and read awhile - just finished GREAT EXPECTATIONS - loved it (and losing the 2 lbs from my pack). Later in the evening when I came out, of course the square is full. I love these social people and wish we had some of their habits....




THURS JULY 3: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma:
Despite being sluggish this morning, I seemed to get my Pilgrim feet back - or rather my pilgrim mindset and throughout was present for the morning walk. Over the past week or two, I have either been focused on getting to Rome - losing sight of the journey for the focus on the destination or just homesick and ready to finish - more focused on counting miles or days, than paying attention to THE DAY or MOMENT. Some days, my adventure felt more like a job than a vacation. I think both these sentiments are normal in all our lives, and for me the key was to give myself a break - either an actual break (day on beach; shopping; a train or bus day; etc.) or just a break and let me mentally whine for awhile. I think this is equally important to do in our "REAL" lives - pay attention to when our stress is high or our routine has become too routine, and give ourselves a break.

The morning was lovely and the paths were not overly strenuous, and before i realized it I had walked over 10km (6 miles) in under 2 hours - which amazes me as I felt I was "strolling" at a relaxed pace, yet this is one of my quickest rates. I walked between two olive orchards, and loved how the owners planted flowers sporatically along the fence line as well. And so I rewarded myself with a cream-filled croissant and a second cappucino!

Not doing a long day - 0nly 23km - 14 miles - I arrived soon after 11, to a city on a hill, so the ending was a bit more strenuous. A nice shower, a not so nice room, but it will do, a sporty new outfit and a tour of the town. Looking forward to dinner tonight - the local restaurant does a pilgrim meal for 9€ ($12).

Tomorrow I head to La Storta, my last stop before Rome. And sadly I read the last day walking is not very nice - but I guess to be expected - walking into a large city. If it was not my last day...I'd take the train!!! Even so, I should arrive in Roma, before noon on Saturday.

I booked a nice hotel throu the internet for Saturday and Sunday nights, so tomorrow night is my last Ostello also - which is fine by me - I keep being the subject of bites, even though I am not sure when or where they get me, just everyday I discover a new itch or two!

DAY 44: Bolsena to Vitterbo (20km - 12 miles - 623 total)

 Before we left the Convent we were staying in for dinner, Sister Josephina grabbed me and pulled me aside, and using two fingers she kept putting them to her mouth and taking them away.  As the italians are known for hand gestures, I asked if she was offering me a wish for a good trip. She looked like a scornful mother, she was warning me not to smoke in the room - which I had NOT done, but evidently the smell traveled. It was an amusing and charming exchange.

Last night I had a farewell dinner with Giorgio and Teresa, the Italian couple that I met the day I left Sienna (and raced the thunderstorm).We have been traveling to the same cities and staying in the same Ostellos for the past five days, but as I need to reach Rome by Saturday, I needed to do more mileage today. It was nice, and true to form, Giorgio snuck off and paid the bill.

Today was a relatively easy walk from Bolsena to Montefiascone, and I wish I could have stayed there - it was really lovely, and guess what...ON TOP OF A HILL!!! I think the people who plan the routes want pilgrims to suffer or earn their testimonium. I did mention that former pilgrims were honored with a place in heaven - right? Something like reserved seating I think. Also one day I passed a cross that indicated if you said the Lords Prayer and an Ave maria, you got 28 indulgences - which I read to mean something like 28 "Get out of jail free" cards. I have been trying to think of some good sinning I can use these on!!!

Anyway, I chose to take the bus from Montefascone to Vitterbo (about 10 miles), and again am happy with the choice, as Vitterbo is even bigger than Sienna and would have been a nightmare of a walk thru industrial and suburban areas to reach the center. I am already ready to leave. It is a lovely walled city, though not as lovely as Sienna, but it is just too busy - to the degree that you cannot possibly greet everyone and so no one greets anyone and most people look angry.

Tomorrow is another long day of 28km, but with only four more days of walking and a new route thanks to my friends in Radicofani, it promises to be a pretty route thru forests and by a lago (lake).

Sorry no pics, but am on an old computer with no USB port. Ciao!

DAYS 41 - 43: San Quirico to Belsano (77km - 46 miles - 611 total)

Now out of Tuscany and less than 100 miles to Roma! This picture is my pilgrim passport or CRENDENTIALE - each night where I stay, it is stamped by a church or Ostello. This is my official notification that I am a pilgrim and a wonderful memory for each night along the way.

 

DAY 41 - SAT. JUNE 28: Ann Quirico to Radicofani (30km - 19 miles):
Another difficult day - maybe I should just copy and paste this phrase. It started out with 3 miles uphill and ended with 5 miles uphill, the end of course being the worst as it was by now hot and after so many miles (18 total) I was tired and a bit hungry. The nice part at the end is that since I was climbing the temperature actually dropped the higher I got, the peak was over 2700 feet high. Thought at one point I found a picnc table but no shade, so I rigged up my own cafe - check out the pics online.
Look at this picture here, which I took at the top of the first 3 mile climb that little top way off in the distance is where I would walk today...it felt a bit like Sam and Frodo heading to Mordor (though with a happier destination).

But as in life, often hard work is rewarded, and so this was the case with a wonderful hilltop city and an amazing Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) staffed entirely by volunteers who have also been on pilgrimmages. In fact several there had recently done a pilgrimage with prisoners to end in Rome and had an audience with the Pope. The Way always changes one - sometimes in small ways and sometimes in big ways.

The Ostello was entirely on a donation basis including the wonderful dinner and breakfast (very early served) they served. In fact this evening is what I imagined when I planned the voyage - a family style dinner with other pilgrims. This was the norm on the Camino Compostella (in Spain), but a rarety on this pilgrimmage. Before dinner, they welcomed and honored us by a ceremonial washing of the feet.

To me, these smaller towns have a nicer flavor of Italy than the bigger attractions of Sienna and Lucca. They are still amazing in heritage andarchitecture, but not overrun by loads of tourists and tourist type shops. I highly reccomend these when you travel to Tuscana. I was also given a new way, which now makes it possible to finish the trip by foot.


DAY 42: Sunday June 29: Radicafani to Aquapendente (25KM - 16 miles):
Today I walked out of Tuscana. Being as the day started on top of the mountain, I made incredible time coming down the first 11km - 7 miles) in just under 2 hours. AMAZING views as I awoke above the clouds and then walked down into them. I love many of the pictures and views here, and I passed tens of thousands of spider webs.

 In one field, it seemed every plant was covered with them, the hedges were lined with them like a strip of Miami condos, it was so cool and I took a bucnh of pics - not sure they capture the abundance and beauty. Interesting every spider was in the exact center of his web - perhaps Italian spiders often have "siesta".

The mddle was all in vallies and quick, with the end being another climb, but not as high or as far. I arrived before noon, but since it was Sunday and a holiday (St Peter and St Pauls anniversary - of what I am not sure), not much was open (ie library for internet), so I walked about the town and read. I am reading Dicken's Great Expenctations - it is easier to find classic literaturein English here, probably for college students. But it inspires me to read more classics too. I was early to the Ostello and a bit dehydrated from going so fast and not taking good eating-drinking breaks: Upon arrival it is necessary to call the Ostello, but as I have no phone, I had to ask someone walking by. It is always interesting when I stop people to ask for directions and in this case to ask them to call for me. When I first say "Escusa mia", it is interesting to note their expressions. I feel sure this couple felt sure I was going to ask for money, so I quickly in Italian explain I am a pilgrim and want to sleep here, but it is necessary to call, but as a pilgrim I have no phone. Could you call for me (Escusa mia. Io sono peregrino e vorrei una camera questa note aqui. Besonya chiamere, mas no telephonera. Puo auotare mia?). They did help and were very kind. SInce I was early and the Ostello was not ready, they put me in a single room, which was quite nice with a double bed.

Aquapendente is another incredible town, with a wonderful flavor of history and tradition. Yet slow enough and out of the way to enjoy it more. The towns best restaurant has offered pilgrims a special meal and for $20 I received a four course meal (antipast - pasta - prima plato - dolce; appetizer sampler - pasta - main dish - dessert), wine and water. This would easily have cost $70 - $100, without the discount and was WONDERFUL and the people again so kind. Another great day!

DAY 43: Monday June 30: Aquapendente to Belsano (22km - 13 miles):
An easier day - there you have it a new phrase, as it was downhill to start and then instead of following the normal path, I chose to walk alongside a large lake (Lago Belsano), which was lovely and had bars and cafes right on the water - Bellisimo! Belsano is another grate old city and thankfully NOT on top of a hill.  As tomorrow is a long day for me, I look forward to a lasst meal with new friend Georgio and Teresa.

DAYS 39 - 40: June 26-27: Sienna to San Quirico d'Orcia - 55km - 33 miles - 565 total)

DAY 39: June 26: Sienna to Ponte d'Arbia:
I fell in love with Sienna last night. Sienna by day was overwhelmingly touristy, but when I went out to find dinner about 7:00pm, the main square was bustling with locals, drinking and gathering as I have seen them do in most towns. It is funny (and wonderful) this way of life as I see it. The streets are desreted between one and four, but after 4, locals some out to shop, to hang out, etc. I see mixtures of generations at cafes and bars. I see families with children, etc. I love the social fabric of life here, and think a part of this is missing at home, how it is built into daily life. But for now, I love Sienna...AT NIGHT.

I left early from Sienna and despite last night was happy to go, and it was another strenuos day, but it feels as though the hills are smaller, or I am stronger or both. Plus I had supplies for my day (fruit, juice, meat). I found a cafe about 4 miles into the day, and I realize this is one of my favorite times of day, the first stop. I sit outside with a croissant filled with fruit or cream, a cappucino and simply enjoy the moment, the rest. I love the first stop...unless I get yesterdays croissant!

Later I was not paying attention to my guide who warned of a long loop around the villages along the way, meaning I would miss cafes and shops...which I did. Again luckily I was provisioned, but it also meant not so nice breaks. Already grumpy over past few days this just added to it...mostly I think a bit homesick and worn down, like my shoes, but I get to that later.I did have some nice moments of meditation, but these did not seem to last.

The day was overcast with light thunder occurring all throughout the day, but this actually kept it cooler and it was a pretty walk through Tuscany. As I reached a marker indicating 2km to my planned destination (a little over a mile), the thunder started getting louder and I could see much darker clouds rolling in, as well as lightning on the hills, which I never could catch with my camera. I was not worried as I was in a valley and not near any strikes. But I was worried about rain, so quickened my pace, and it seemed as I quickened, so did the clouds also moving in the direction of the village I was going to - Ponte d'Arbia. Louder it got and the wind picked up, so I picked up my pace as I enetered the outskirts of town. A few blocks later, I spied a bar ahead to my left and kept up my pace. 10 steps from the bar, I felt the first drop. Within a minute the rain was falling in buckets.

This gift of perfect timing lifted my spirits as do the many miracles and kind gestures along the way. I firmly believe people treat pilgrims better than tourists, even though we dont smell as nice. The Ostello here was self service with everyoine in town knowing the key was under the matt, a kind town with lovely people. I hope this energizes me for the nine remaining days of walking....


FRI JUNE 27: Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'Orcia:
After yesterdays rain, I awoke to a thick and heavy fog. I loved it and chose to take the hilly loop in the morning,,,,so my spirits must still be lifeted. It was a lovely and seemingly mysterious walk in the mountains in the fog where I snapped pics of sunrise, trees and spiderwebs crystallized in moisture. There is something other-wordly about fog and being alone in nature. And only an hour or two later, my favorite stop of the day - PRIMA. My cappuncino, croissant and zigarette (YES IM SMOKING - but will NOT in the USA). One of the things I hate about smoking is how bad it smells, well here it is actually an IMPROVEMENT on my smell and to me seems a part of italian life...

The day was clear and lovely later as I walked over hills and vineyards, ending up in a lovely village atop another hill...of course. Tonight there are 5 pilgrims here besides me, 3 italiand and a dutch man - who is now walking home to the Netherlands, after reaching Rome, he will be walking for more than 6 months....OH LA LA. I dont think I could do this, or rather, dont want to do this. Two of the Italians, Therese and Giorgio, I met last night and they are walking from Sienna to Rome.



I also found an amusing guide for correct toilet use, which given my earlier posts, felt sort of appropriate...HOPE YOU ENJOY!

DAY 38:June 25 Colle di Val d'Elsa to Sienna (0K - 0 miles - 532 total)

Last night I enjoyed strolling the streets of the OLD and NEW parts of the city in Colle di Val d'Elsa, especially after I found the ELEVATOR. The old part Towers about 10 stories about the lower level and the streets are treachourously steep....in a crazy way....it must never snow here. But the elevator is a Marvel, bored through solid rock it takes you to top or bottom in seconds, and at the bottom you exit via a cave-like tunnel. Beats the first time I went back up top....sweating all the way! I also realize I like cities like this, that are a little touristy, but not quite so busy. I stayed in the convent and had a lovely host and room....again all for free.

Viva la Providence!
This morning when I awoke at my normal time - about 5:30, it was pouring rain, so thinking I had a lighter day /(less walking - about 12-15 miles), I decided to sleep another hour and see the weather then. I woke up again at 8:00 - feeling groggy and it was not raining but a bit overcast, so I decided to take the bus to Sienna ($5 - well spent).

However when the bus arrived it got full fast and as I have a HUGE Pack and long stick, I thought maybe I should just wait 40 minutes for next bus, so I sat back down as Others boarded. I then watched as the bus driver got some other hikers off the bus and began storing their equipment under the bus - PERFECT - so I quickly ran up and stred ine to ...PROVIDENCE!

I am SO GLAD I did this as Sienna is HUGE, much bigger than I would have thought a city of 60,000 would be, but I am sure with all the tourists and they are here in busloads, the population is probably double. Getting into and out of large cities on foot is usually incredibly long and boring.


It is a beautiful city full of rich architecture, history etc., but right now it is swelling with tourists and touristy type shops - it is just not the Italy I want to see. I am staying in a convent here - again free, showered changed and walked about a bit, then found a quiet shady bench out of the way and spent a couple hours reading. A German couple asked me, why I was reading and not looking about if this was my only day here, and I pretty much shared the same - I like being out of the way, in real villages, not tourist sites.

I was planning on spending another day here, but now am happy to leave Tomorrow.,

Days 35 - 37: Lucca to Colle di Val d'Elsa (95km - 57 miles - 532 Total)

I have had big distant days and they have NOT been easy. Tuscany is all hills, so its been a bit of an up and down. I did over 67 km in two days which would normally take me three or four. So in my mind, I have gained a day or two in my plan to reach Rome. However today left me a GRUMPY PILGRIM....

SUN JUNE 22: Lucca - Fuechio:  (37K - 22 miles - longest day yet)
A pleasant surprise happened last night in Lucca, Birgit, my first travel buddy ended up in the same Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) as me, So we had dinner with 2 other German girls and caught up on each others adventure...hers being a bit more risque! The next day (today) we planned on meeting in the same city about 17k away (10 miles), but I got up early as was in this village by 11:00 am, and just felt like it would waste a day to stop, so I thought I would go to the next village with an Ostello - which was an additional 12K (7 miles). I was kind of excited because this town's Ostello is actually built into the bridge (WAY COOL). Unfortunately SUNDAYS SUCK as it is difficult to contact people and when I arrived  at Ponte a Cappiano, no one was there and no one would answer the phone, so I was stuck.

A nice lady in the bar phoned ahead to the next village (another 3 miles) and found me a cheap room in a boarding house. However she just gave me the name and address....after I walked about a mile, I suddenly realized, I am walking into a town of 30,000 people and have no idea of any of the streets and did not ask her to tell me what it was near (church, town center , etc.) SHIT! . How in the hell am I going to find this. Luckliy for the first time ever, as I walked into the city there was a city map with street index posted in bronze and the street was a major one and the street I was on would merge right into it...LUCKY PILGRIM!

It was quite lovely and had an awesome terrace. But man I was beat when there, though not as beat as the first few days, so my body is street tough! And vesides that listening to my music made me miss turns, twice, so I had to retrace steps (CATES - I take back that beer offer!). Also today, I was confirmed in my annoyance at Lucca being touristy. In Lucca, I got a small gelati which had two ping pong ball scoops in it, something I had never seen before (so smal serving), today in a small village along the way, i ordered the same small bowl and it was crammed full and about 3 inches of mound above the edge. Trust me - getting away from the tourist hot spots is way better!

Its also funny the lessons that come to  me on the walk, sometimes they seem like major life questions or challenges and sometimes, just practical walking advice. Todays tip is do NOT tuck your shirt in your underware. Because my pack is tight against my back, my shirt back is always wet with sweat, and when it was tucked in me undies, it created a nice flow to my, how should I say, rear attributes, which created the perfect storm for chaffing. OUCH! The last four miles were hell, as was sitting in the pizzeria waiting for dinner.

Another good lesson however is the restorative power of sleep, the next morning fett and butt were happy and ready for another day!

MON JUNE 23: Fuecchio to Gambassi Terme (31k - 19 miles):
Today was to be the TRI-FECTA of difficult days: 1. yoyo path (all ups and downs), 2. Long Distant (though originally this was my 36K day, but yesterdays misfortune (closed Ostello) reduced the mileage, and 3. Fa caldo (HOT)! This was a tough day, taking me 10 hours to do the entire walk, though I did take a long lunch-nap break (about an hour). Please enjoy these pics as I WORKED HARD FOR THEM. it was an amazing day with incredible views the entire time as I walked along (up and down) a ridge in Tuscany! What added to the toughness is that for the almost last 12 miles, there were no cities, shops or cafes, so first there are no good breaking points and second, you dont ever know how far you've gone and how much is left. 1 mile before the Ostello, there was finally a bar, and I have never been so happy to see a bar in my life!

This day made me really realize how not only physical this journey is, but also mental, because though my energy was good all day, my mental energy went down at end, making me even slower. The Ostello is Gambassi was nice and there were alot of pilgrims there, I had dinner with about 12 people - five of them Italian guys who walk together and like to sing...they sang throughout most of the dinner....it was odd and interesting. And then there was the Spanish lady whose laugh shattered glass,,,,hysterical. I just wish my italian was better as I dont think I got all the jokes.

TUES JUNE 24: Gambassi Terme to Colle di Val d'Elsa (28K - 17 miles)
I got a really early start today as I could not find my clock when i awoke, so I think I left at about 5:30. I also made some individual choices about routes and probably saved myself a mile or two of hill climbing. I am beginning to think that part of the NEW mapping of the camino, is for tourist reasons and they want you to hit many towns. I was a little disappointed when I passed this really nice hotel cafe at 7:30 - the first I saw all day only to realize it was closed until 8am. and I did not want to waste 45 mins of walking time early. It was a nice crisp morning and I got to see the sunrise...i probably took way too many pics. Then I passed through an amazing old city San Gigmiano, where I had a nice coffee on a terrace overlooking the hills. I also worked hard to get to this city as it was high on a hill. I made great time and made it into Colle, about 1:30pm, but as usual my worst part of day - finding Ostello and finding Tourist office. And italy is like Spain in that many places close from 12:30 - 3 or 4, which both the Ostello and Tourist office were, so I ended up walking back and forth a couple of times. Adding to my already general grumpiness.

I think I am ready to leave, its not easy being a nomad, a different city every day. I dream of my own bed now and air conditioning, though I did have it on the two nights previos (Lucca and Fuecchio) and unexpected pleasure. i took a picture of the CLIMA maching. But I have less than two weeks left, I know, but it is beginning to feel less like an adventure and more like work or something I have to check off as having been accomplished. But then there are moments like today as I was nearing my end city, a van just pulled over right in front of me - which first made the GRUMPY pilgrim even grumpier, because I was going to have to walk way out in the highway to get around it, As I passed the driver he reached out and handed me three apricots, and said they were for the pilgrim going to Rome. Its these moments that encourage me, and allow me to lessen the GRUMP. A farmer waving his fist in triumph as he passes me, a nicely dressed lady in a city, saying COMPLIMENTI COMPLIMENTI.

I know I can do this, and enjoy it, but I do miss home.....

Day 34: June 21: Camaoire to Lucca (24 km - 15 miles - 475 total)

Last night I stayed in an Osteria - which best as I can tell is like a religious school and community center. It was not so nice, but a free bed and shower, one should not complain and the people were very nice  (Molto gentile).

It was a nice evening, I notice that a narrow street with high buildings creates shady sèpots most of the day, and the main street was one long street through the entire village allowing a nice breeze throughout the day.

My guide warned me that the second half of today would be without any shops or cafes, so I packed heavy with food and drink, but the second half was just 12 km and mostly flat. Meanwhile I added about 5 lbs to my sac which did not feel so good. Especially as the first hour was a climb of over 1000 feet. Its not so much the height, but the paths, mostly narrow and stony. Going up is strenuous and going down treachorus. But I did well.

And I guess I am getting much stronger as it was a quick day, arriving just aftern noon. I also seem to be more comfortable using the great outdoors - hell it aint much different than using one of those men,s toilets. This cracks me up as I dont feel all that outdoorsy, but today I didnt even think about where next village was, justy hopped in the woods and took care of business.

Some nice views and good timing today on my walk, as I said I am definitely getting stronger. Lucca is an incredible city totally walled around, but overrun with tourists - though this did make it easy to find the Tourist Office, there is three!. I guess I really am opne too, but in my mind I am Michele (Mi-Kel-ee) the peregrino. It is completely walled in, and packed with shops and restaurants - tonight I think I splurge a little and eat some nice pasta and wine...I still cannot imagine eating the italian way with 2- 4 courses....I would not be able to walk.

The Ostello here is amazing it is a 3-bedroom apartment, fully appointed, and again all siimply for donation. They tell me it is full tonight (4 people), but I have my own room which I like. I also did some laundry (in the sink) as my shirt today started walking without me. The Stinky Tourist lives on!!!

And also finally I find a city, Lucca,  that gives me the credit I deserve, the largest and central piazza is for Saint Michael - - naturally. Tomorrow I walk only 16 km to Abbadia di Pozzeveri, but as it is Sunday, this always poses a problem in finding a bed.

Ciao!

DAY 33 - June 20: Massa - Camaiore(25km - 15 miles - 460 Total)

Todays walk was GORGEOUS again, leaving Massa with a street lined with Orange Trees, I thought of grabbing one, but was not sure the etiquette. I left early and had to climb into the mountains, and so had some amazing views of the sea. Early on a came across a WITCH bar, then later had to absolve myself to use a pilgrim toilet.....a hedgerow! After this I thought maybe Sigrid had cursed me, given her earlier episode. Not sure where she is, but thought these were all omens for running into her. Morning walking is good, afternoon, it gets tough as the heast kicks in. I am a lil worried once I leave the mountains again.

Today I thought of my father alot, the first was when a truck passed me by with a loud speaker on top announcing, "Pesce" (fish) as it drove thru neighborhoods; and later a mailman drove up on a scooter while I was at a cafe. Miss you Pops!

Camiore is a lovely village, of about 30,000 -  just about the right size in my mind...lots of restaurants, shops and cafes to feed me and not so much that it makes it hard to get into or out of town. And right now I am in the library, so I get internet too.

Tomorrow another long day into Lucca, a much bigger town, so am hoping to upload recent pics.

Oh I also invented a new Italian word...Benella  - for something that is good (bene) and beautiful (bella). I like it and these Italians better give me credit...YESTERDAY was definitely a BENELLA DAY.

Pictures soon....CIAO!

DAY 32: Massa - Pilgrim Vacation

Best day yet. I took train from Sarzanna to Massa in early morning, found tourist office (ALWAYS A PAIN). Found internet for quick updates with pics and blòog, found a room in lovely church with lovely franciscan monk, Eugenio, and loaded a lighter day pack to go to the beach.

About a 3 mile walk...nothing for me now, I found the beach. In Italy most beaches are private and are sort of like country clubs. The club I found costs $1500 per season, but being it was Thursday was not crowded and they rented me a primo spot for $13. There was a nice restaurant, and I got a chair, umbrella, beach bed...it was fabulous day off.

A nice light salad with white whine (I am becoming italian I think...call me mik-el-eee), I napped, read (a book I found in the last Ostello, and had the best time. In fact I almost cried when I had to leave...it was so nice. Making me think I will need a vacation from my vacation. At dinner I sat next to some Americans, but never let on I was one....after all, now I am Mik-el-eee.

And I so want this paddle boat with slide for my lakehouse that I saw here

DAYS 31 - 32: June 18 - 19: Aulla to Massa (40KM - 25miles - 445miles total)

PICTURES: https://viafrancigenawithmichael.shutterfly.com/pictures

JUNE 18: Aulla to Sarzana:
Last night, the village was dead after dinner. I wonder if this is because of the city in a way being killed in the war. The city is all new and does not have the structure or form that most cities do that promote community - piazzaz, etc. It makes me think that how we build our structures forms somewhat how we live our lives. If we want community or connection, we must build spaces that invite us in, not shut us out. I think of Dallas and how now even our yards and gardens are walled off, creating separation not connection. It makes me a little sad.

TODAY the walk was TOUGH, but beautiful. We passed a very high village BILBOA and climbed and descended on very difficult and narrow paths full of stones. I twisted my ankles many times, but none severley...luckily. Also many passes were very close to the edge and very narrow. I just kept moving forward and had little problems. One one pass, I found a VERY HAPPY DAISY who was dancing in the wind...make sure you look close at this pic, it is amazing and funny and captures the spirit of the walk...most days! The progress was slow and my travelling mate, Sigrid, had a few problems in the woods....it is important when you are a pilgrim that your toilet paper does not ROLL away from you down the mountain!!!! Later in the day, the views were amazing including that of the Mediterraneo....which I reach tomorrow.

Sarzanna is a lovely city with a HORRIBLE OSTELLO for pilgrims. It was dirty with mattresses on the floor, but it was our home for the night. We had dinner at a lovely cafe- pizzeria and I had the COWBOY PIZZA which included corn, beans and potatoes...an interesting mix. We laughed long into the night of our adventures during the day.

JUNE 19: Sarzana to Massa:
Massa is on the sea, and today I spend the day in the city and on the beach....perhaps more story to come.

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A PILGRIM

I thought it might be interesting to see what a typical day is like during this journey....

1. Wake up, and eat a lil something (italian breakfasts suck - pastry and expresso - as does their bread) and pack bag - usually about 6-630am. It takes me about 10 minutes to pack, and it is funny, but I have an absolute system for everything (clothes in bottom, toiletries here...
2. Start Walking. Depending upon how long I am planning or walking or how hot it is, if a long walk (>18 miles) or if it is going to be hot, I try and be on the road by 7, and sometimes I even start at 6 in especially hot spots. A luxury day (or lazy pilgrim day) starts at 8, usually if I plan to walk very short or take train and do a skip. On hot or tough walks (hills), I average 2 miles an hour (when breaks included), cool times and flat walks I average closer to 3 mph.
3. Breaks: I stop about every 2 hours for 15 - 30 minutes. I take my shoes off (sometimes socks too) and eat and drink something. Normally I carry some fruit, some ham or other dried meat and cheese and some OJ. I will take a longer break around lunch and sometimes even nap. Finding a good break spot is sometimes hard - i have some pictures of not so fun ones (underpass, etc.) I prefer cafes and bars or a nice bench or picnic tale.
4. Arrival: I have tended to arrive in towns in early to mid afternoon, and I always try to find the tourist info office first if they have one, as this gives me info on computers, a map and eating and shopping. This is NOT an easy job and one of my least favorite, finding the office in a city with no map. I then usually head to the hostile (pilgrim hotel) I am hoping to stay in. Once there, i get a stamp in my pilgrim passport, I fill out a police document indicated who i am and where i am staying and get a lil tour and rules- info talk.
5. Tourist- Shopping time: Once checked in, showered and sometimes short nap, I assess my food for the next day and see if I need anything. Then I spend afternoon, evening in city - journaling, looking at cites, shopping for food for walk, eating and drinking and getting Gelati!!!
6. Bed Time: Normally between 9 - 11pm. Usually I read, I have bought several books here, in fact I bought one today, Henry James, The turning of the Screw (Only had a few classics in English).

NORMAL DAILY BUDGET:  ($29 - $59  though mstly closer to lower)

1. Food for walk (fruit, meat,cheese, juice) $5.00
2. Breaks at Cafes\ bars.  (coffee\ coke\ pastry)  - $10
3. Room for night (most are donation based provided by local churches, where i normally leave $5, or $10 if the people or place is really nice (wash machine, fan, etc). If I have to get a hotel, these usually cost about $30. In last 2 weeks, I have only had a hotel one night, all others were donation and that one cost $27, but included breakfast.
4. Dinner: If I eat out with others, this is usually about $15, if alone, its usually about $10 as sometimes I will just buy food to prepare or get something quick.                          

Oh and there is PLENTY of TIME for thinking..........

DAY 30: june 16: pontremali - Aulla (32Km - 20 miles - 420 total)

277 MILES TO ROME.....

The day was gorgeous, and I left Pontremoli about 7:00. The sky was blue, and this was one of the best walks so far. Lots of beautiful scenery, walks in the hills, walks through wonderful old towns, including places that seemed like a dead end, but as you came close to the wall you could see it opened to the left or right. It has some tough climbs and some tough descents, but not really long ones. So it was a wonderful walk.

As I was walking into Filattiera, (which by the way took 90 steps up), I saw a sign for bibliotecque (library), and since at that point I have been out of touch for 3 - 4 days, I thought I might see if they had internet. Often the smaller towns have fewer people and fewer rules (like only 30 minutes of use, etc.). I could not find it, but saw the Municipo (City hall) so went inside to ask. The security guard sent me upstairs, where I explained, "Sono Pelligrino, no computer, no telephono. Vorrei usaro computer con internet a parlo con parenti" (I am a pilgrim with no phone, no computer and like to find one to speak with my family). A nice lady ushered me into an office (hers) and sat me down. I ased if it was OK, and possibly use it for an hour, se just smiled and waved her hands as if to say, just use it. This nice lady was the MAYOR of the town and I was at her desk. While I updated my blog and answered email, she conducted her business with multiple people at the conference table across the room, always introducing them to the PILGRIM. I am still floored his occured, she was so nice.

The rest of the day was nice and later found the city of Aulla to be strange to what I have seen so far, specifically that it is ALL NEW, the priest told me that all was destroyed in WWII. But here they are so kind and have recommended a restaurant and even provide a computer, which i am on now.