Camino Del Norte - Day 14 - Santa Cruz de Bezane to Santillana del Mar - 24.4k

TODAYS PICS:

Last night another wonderful family style dinner in a lovely Albergue with a lovely host - which makes all the difference. The food was good and then some insight into the trail for today. Two main points were that the "original" trail is long - up to 40k and that there is a river that needs to be crossed and the nearest bridge is for trains.

The train bridge is forbidden/ prohibited to cross; but how they explained this was amusing. "Walking on the bridge is forbidden, but you can do it if you like. " LOL This actually to me is a very open and mature philosophy. The idea being, we have warned you not to; and if you choose to do it, know you are responsible. But there is a train station on each side of the bridge so you can get on, ride for 2 minutes and then get off. This description was also amusing. "If you get on, and no man comes the ride is free. If he comes you pay him 1.65. This is the system."


The day began with a nice breakfast - light as usual, but I had coffee, so this makes me happy. It was raining as I left the Albergue and continued non-stop thru the morning.  I chose to take the train and after walking about an hour arrived at the train station at the same exact moment as the train, but was on the wrong side and could not cross, while the train was there, so I had to wait 40 minutes. Not a big deal, and I did meet some pilgrims from prior days as they got off the train.

The first part of the walk after train was countryside, but overlooking a large highway. From there it go worse as it was raining and we went thru large industrial area. At the end of the walk, it became a little more rural, which was nice.

We ended in Santillana del Mer - an old medieval village that is truly lovely, but feels more EPCOT/ Disney than Europe, as it is filled with tourist shops and restaurants.  I went into the Museum of Torture and the Spanish Inquisition - Which of course nobody expected (ba dum bum)! And was disappointed as I was really more interested in the Inquisition and history, and all that was there was descriptions and exhibits of torture devices.

I am hoping for a nice dinner and an early night in the Convent Alburgue - where there are only two beds per room, and right now I have a single. Fingers crossed it stays this way!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 13: Guemes to Santa Cruz De Bezana – 24km

TODAYS PICS

Last night the alburgue in Guemes shared with us its history. It was the birth place of 80 year old former priest, Padre Ernesto. An unconventional man of the people. In his first community assignment, he was high in the mountains in a mining community. As such, he not only was their priest, but also worked in the mines. His life was one of service, travel and service. The alburgue which operates totally in donations, funds not only this beautiful place, but also two missions – one a mission for local youth and a mission for the poor people of the southern hemisphere. There also is an outreach to the local prison, whose wall I walked by today.

Today was another overcast day with a wonderful 8km walk. First trhu countryside, and then along cliffs beside the ocean followed by a boat ride to a large city, Santander. I almost got off the boat at the wrong stop - which would have added another 10 miles to today - YIKES!

Most stayed in the city, I suppose wanting to explore, but I am not big on cities along the walk, and also wanted to get more miles under my belt today, both for my schedule and also to keep training for when I split onto the Primitive path.

The first couple kilometers in the city were nice, but to get out of a large city is always difficult, and usually boring and long. Today was no different. From shopping district, to industrial zone to train tracks, the second half was nothing to write about until something weird happened.

I was walking beside a house, and a large friendly German Shephard stuck his head thru the fence. I greeted him and he walked away, but as I was walking along the street, he approached me again and dropped a stone for me. Now this may not sound weird, but pilgrims usually carry stones with them, which they leave at Santiago or somewhere along the way. I had planned to do this, and have done it before, but did not pick any up. Since this is so symbolic and so weird, I felt I need to take his stone to Santiago. WEIRD – EH? Maybe he is a reincarnated pilgrim????

Another long day under my belt with an interesting day tomorrow, I hope.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 12 - Laredo to Guemes - 30K

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TODAYS VIDEO:


Today was the Disneyland of walks.

An early rise, and surprisingly the hotel had breakfast open early, so got a coffee, juice and some toast before leaving, without going out of my way.

Then I had a lovely 4k walk along the "boardwalk" of Laredo with a glorious shining sun. I had a look at some nice prospective oceanfront condos - just need some investor help - ANY TAKERS???

Normally a sunny day is something I usually am a little fearful of during walking (HEAT), but today the weather was in DISNEY-SYNC! Lovely and sunny along the beach with wonderful cool breeze; then later a wee bit overcast, cool and breezy. This really helped on this longest day yet.

Seems I'm becoming a record breaker.

After the boardwalk, there was a pilgrim ferry across a narrow strait to a town on the other side; a fun way to make up some miles and avoid walking AROUND!!! The ferry lighted 10 minutes later in another lovely town and I thought about having second breakfast, but as I'm a pilgrim and not a hobbit, I opted to keep moving.

A brief walk thru town, then up to the beach for an amazing (and a wee bit scary) climb along a mountain-goat path on a beautiful and high cliff. It was exhilarating and steep, a bit slippery, and the couple of downs on the way up, were nerve-racking. The views were lovely, and the descent on the other-side tough on body (feet, ankles, and knees) and focus.

But the landing was a lovely sandy beach, that I walked along for 2k - amazing and lovely. I stopped for a rest here and realized that there was a primo alburgue (pilgrim hotel) a little further (5miles) than I had planned to walk, but I decided to do it anyway.

The rest of the day was long, tough and a beautiful walk thru the countryside. I had strong and consistent energy, but a lot was along roads, so my feet and legs were vibrating and aching most of afternoon. It often looked like rain; and was a little nervous at one point, but I turned the corner saw MISS KITTY hanging on a house, and my friend Kerri assures me that when I see this all is well, so continued on!

A lovely bar just a mile before end, tempted me to stop for a "radler", a german concoction of beer and sprite or orange soda, that is a lovely refreshing cocktail in summer, It was a wise choice, as I had not breaked for a couple hours, and my feet were about to revolt. Having Salomon

Unfortunately, there was a steep climb at the end, but it wasn't long, and I was in no danger of bonking. The alburgue here (pilgrim hotel) is reputed to be the RITZ-CARLTON of Alburgues. I judge it is probably run by pilgrims for pilgrims; so it is set up to serve our needs; and there is no fee; only an ask to make a donation before you leave - according to what you can afford, and what your heart dictates. Did I mention this includes dinner too.

What a great ending to an awesome day!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 11 - Castro-Urdiales to Laredo - 28k

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TODAYS VIDEO:

With ten days under my belt, I have been feeling good the last few days walking and wanted to see how far I could push the mileage, especially as the Primitive path is coming up soon and has longer, harder days.

Today was again a great walking day with temperatures in the 60's and overcast. It has been rainy the last few afternoons/ nights, so the off-road tracks were pretty muddy and I stayed on the road for a couple shortcuts, but still racked up my longest day yet. I felt tired, but good at the end and no bonking!

There was a nice Eucalyptus forest, that I imagine on hot days is a way cool experience. I still find the transitions along the coast strange. Yesterday there was a huge factory on a gorgeous ocean-front cliff. Today I walked through large cities on the ocean, farmland, and untouched nature. The sad part of today was the major highway that paralleled closely, so even when the views were awesome, the sound pollution was horrible.

Later ended up in ocean-front city of Laredo, where one of the coolest things was the patterned etched into the sidewalks that gave the impression that they were not flat; so cool, unless drunk, I guess.

I also had a wee bit of bad luck as my phone died about 3 blocks from my hotel, and I was not really sure of the address or name - thank goodness for a friend that gave me a recharger/ flashlight for Christmas which was on the trip!

BUen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 10 - Pobena to CastroUrdiales - 16km

TODAYS PICS

TODAYS VIDEO

Had a great pilgrim dinner again last night surrounded by many pilgrims from all over - France, Germany, Spain, Argentina, Peru - too many places to count.

Today, I am back in the saddle so to speak. After a little pilgrim holiday to find Dragonstone; followed by a day of public transport to get back on the Camino (Bus >> Metro >> Bus), I am walking again,.

Along the way, several ladies tried to tell me to turn back when I was nearing a tunnel as it was closed; but while I was trying to understand what they were saying, five teenage boys jogged by and into the tunnel, and did not return. So I chose to go around the PROHIBITED FENCE - like the boys and continue on. It was a cool adventure that kept me on edge - of the cliff literally!

Close to the end, there was lovely Bagpipe and drum music. I took a video with my phone - not sure if the sound will come thru!

I feel stronger, and though today was mixed with lovely ocean front path and a few climbs; it is not too far, so I end early at at my hotel - a Hotel and Spa. There is a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and sauna all inside; and I have a massage scheduled for 4:00.

I am not sure if I am a really smart pilgrim, or maybe a BAD ONE!

I have decided to return to Albergues tomorrow to meet more pilgrims, though I have met quite a few today.

Buen Camino..

DAY 8: Pilgrim Holiday ?? - Bakio/ San Juan de Gastelugotxe - Dragonstone - 15k

TODAYS PICS

What does a pilgrim do on his rest day?
He walks from sea level 4 miles over a large hill and 4 miles back - all to see DRAGONSTONE!


The TV Version

Real Life - San Juan de Gastelugotxe

This morning began with often one of the big challenges abroad - using public transportation. It did not seem too difficult, the bus station (??) was a short 15 minute walk, I knew the bus to get on (3518), I knew the departure time (10:30) but when I arrived at Plaza Mayua, I found a big circle and different buses landed and departed at different places. There were actually electronic signs, but when in new situation - all is hard to find. So I GOOGLEd it - and low and behold, google walked me to the right stop, I almost angered a line of people there as I did not realize they were queued up for the bus and went to the front to board bus. Driver pointed to line and I got the idea. 2 Euros and a half hour later I am in Bakio, my days destination of sorts.

I had emailed with hotel day before about arriving a little before the noon check-in and all seemed good. I called her when I was here at 11:15; but no answer. Several calls and texts later still nothing after 2 hours; so I asked bar next store if they would watch my backpack, packed a light sack and went off to find Dragon Stone. This site used is actually an island off the North of Spain with a church (not castle) on top. It was a 4 mile walk there and back; 2 miles uphill to get above Dragonstone and then down 2 miles to it.

With a light pack and a week of heavy pilgrimming, it was an easy day. And a highlight was that I was not winded on any of the climbs. OK I had only a light day pack and an overcast; cool day. But I still loved walking past heavily winded tourists, by keeping a steady pace. See I am getting my pilgrim feet!

Don't you see the resemblance -
YOU KNOW NOTHING JON SNOW!

Walking along the beach of this town - am surprised that there seems so little life here. It is a beach town, with loads of condos near the shore, but there are few shops, few restaurants and hardly any people. Its a Friday afternoon in May. And even many of the condos look like relics from Post War Eastern Europe reconstructions. Beach front is so primo in the USA, it is hard to get my head around this. But I guess thats somewhat always the case with understanding other cultures; we first have to turn off our own lense. BUT STILL WEIRD TO ME,

Back to the hotel, a quick call, some lovely tapas and beer at bar next door and I am stowed away for the night, Tomorrow is another transit day to make it back en route, and then I begin my regular march again, now a day behind. But no matter, I catch a ride on a dragon (or bus) and will be in Santiago by June 17!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 7 - Larrabetzu to Bilbao - 15km

TODAYS PICS

NO VIDEO - boring walk along streets in industrial area until end, so decided not to film

Last night was great evening in B&B. House lady was great - did my laundry, excellent cook. I am eating so much.

Had great dinner with a Canadian lady hiking alone for a week from Vancouver, and a guy from London, about to embark on a week long motorcycle tour with buds thru France and back to the UK. Way too much wine and a late night, made for a slow and late start today, but this was the day for it!

Short walking day; into Bilboa and hotel early.  Awesome hotel with penthouse river view room and close by Guggenheim Museum,

Visited Guggenheim - some really wild and weird Chinese stuff going on. (no pics allowed.)

Off tomorrow for Game of Thrones sight-seeing walk to Dragonstone.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 6: Guernika to Larrabetzu - 17k

TODAYS PICS

TODAYS VIDEO

Today was first shorter day and a wee bit easier; mainly as I decided not to do a full 31.5k into Billboa. Lovely overcast walking with only a couple big hills. Even so, I realized my bonking is result of not only food, but also my pace.

In Dallas I walk regularly at least 5 miles or more, but it is very flat and all on pavement, sidewalks or smooth trails. My pace in Dallas is about 4 miles/ hour (6.4 km/ hour). With hills, I was still averaging about 4km/hr; but on longer days this means Im burning a lot of energy up front; so today OPA ARRIVED! I strolled through the day. I strolled up hills, I strolled down hills; and my breathing though stretched uphill was much less pronounced and my energy remained good.


Arriving about 1:00 in Larrabetzu, I opted for a pilgrim menu lunch for 12 Euros - Beer (or wine), Bread, Lovely mixed salad with asparagus, olives and fresh local tuna, Beef steak, fries and peppers, followed by dessert and expresso. The dining can be one of the highlights of pilgrimages; of travel in general.

I have been worried about the albergues being full; so yesterday I booked a room at a lovely Casa Rural (like a country B&B), but I was in perfect time for the Albergue in Larrabetzu.  After walking with a German couple and meeting others wish I had save my $65Euros and trusted "THE WAY." The alburgue was free - meaning there is no cost, but what you wish to donate,

Of course expecting a really nice dinner, room is lovely and the house lady did my laundry, which severely needed it!

Tomorrow another short day, followed by a day or two of holiday.

Camino Del Norte - Day Five: Markina Xemein to Gernika - 26k

TODAYS PICS

NO VIDEO - I accidentally Shut off when clipping to harness.

So today is another long day, with some challenging hills including one at the end - making it more so.

The dinner and pilgrims in Albergue were lovely and fun, with folks from France, Spain, Germany, Florida and Chicago. I filled my gut, though should have had more spaghetti - it was so good with cayenne on it! Followed by yummy fish. The internet was not existent, it would have been quicker to mail a letter! And breakfast this morning was just toast, juice and coffee.

Last night, I must have had the best ear plugs, cause I heard nothing. But an interesting thing did happen. I woke up about four, and could not go back to sleep. In my normal life, I turn the tv on in sleep mode, and this shuts off my brain. But here in shared quarters - this was not a possibility, so had this interesting experience of trying to relax and focus my mind. The only thing I can say is  - I LOST MY MIND. Curious how hard it was to come back to center and how rambling it is. I really think part of this is being "connected" all the time to phone, tv, work, etc. And not really knowing or practicing disconnecting and being present. I like the definition of medititation as dying on the pillow every day. That it is an almost death-like struggle to focus in the moment.

It was a really lovely walk - strenuous throughout the day with multiple climbs. Several cafes along the way, one where I had a light lunch - evidently too light; and plenty of water. But 26km is still 26km; and when you add all the hills, its an energy beater; so I learned today that I BONKED - I ran out of gas on the last hill.

And when you bonk, recovery aint so easy. So though I was close to end, I was dragging; and my room on the third floor, felt like Everest. So still working on getting in the pilgrim groove. With a couple light days and a break on Friday, I think my body will get some recovery time and I might need to do some schedule planning.

A fun highlight today was the pilgrim rest stop - a huge covered area outside an alburgue provided shade and great camaraderie. A fun bit was when a young Spanish guy began singing love for sale; guess there are all kinds of ways to finance ones travels.

Camino Del Norte - Day 4: Deba to Markina-Xemein – 25km (May 21)

TODAYS PICS - Yeah they are here finally!

TODAYS VIDEO

Well today was NOT yesterday. Still much climb and descents; but not as many and really only two large one; both coming in first half of another long day. Also I am getting my “sailor-legs”  so to speak.

I bought lunch to carry, walked at a more agreeable pace, and took longer and more frequent breaks – so even though easier, it took me longer – about 8 hours. There was a small incline 200 meters – which really aint that small at the end of the day. Again the power of the mind is incredible; near the end of the day with 5k to go, I thought I heard thunder and double timed it to town.  Arriba, Arriba Undele!

Speaking of food; I sort of feel like one of those French geese that they force-feed (overfeed) to expand their liver for fois grae. Last night at dinner, I was served two large chicken breasts, potatoes and salad; and though I was full after one; I ate it all. I know my body is using tremendous amounts of energy and needs fuels. Surprisingly I awoke hungry.  This morning at breakfast which I don’t usually eat, I was served a croissant, ham, cheese, and toast. Again I shoved it uncomfortably down.

So it seems each day brings a new metaphor. Lovely mostly inland day with nice scenery and hills that really were not nearly as steep/ bad as the ones yesterday.

I am also staying in my first Albergue – dormitory style arrangements for pilgrims. This is one of the better ones. 15 Euros (some are less or on donation basis), 9 euros for dinner and 3 for breakfast. You cant beat that. The man who showed me in also gave me the “BEST BED” as I am an American from Texas. Evidently there are many Basque people in Texas. (Eat your heart out Craig Towers – no such perks for Kiwis!)

Tomorrow is a longer day, but supposedly the hills are gentle and the scenery aplenty.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 3 - Zarautz to Deba - 24km

TODAY'S PICS

TODAYS VIDEO


Who ever said, that a pilgrimage ain't like a Sunday walk on the beach? Well for me that's exactly how the day began; with a lovely sunny morning and a walk along the coast. I thought it was going to be a light day, as I did half the walk this way with virtually no incline; and even hit a cafe after only an hour walk. The omens appeared good.....NOT SO FAST!

It's weird beginning these pilgrimages - or maybe making any change; as I find my internal monologue whining allot; even when I was on the sunny ocean front path. I was laughing as I was thinking, "If I could only record this." But I guess that's what happens with change - its uncomfortable, and we long for familiarity. Hell maybe this is a genetic survival trait. But I know that in the past, I move from, "Why am I doing this?" to "This ain't so bad, and really is wonderful in that the daily grind of my life is removed, and all I have to decide is where to eat and sleep. I guess walk too; but often this is laid out for me with arrows guiding the way.

I have also spent the first few nights in hotels; and not in the albergues - pilgrim hotels. So while I have made some acquaintances, the end of the days have been a bit lonely. Last night eating in a beach front restaurant, I longed for company and conversation. I tend to be a bit shy at first. So my plan is to stay at an albergue tonight and do this for the next few nights to make some pilgrim friends.

I did the first half , 12K - in just a few hours; and opted to take a shorter second half - that instead of going inland, was a "shorter path, but a little strenuous" ... LITTLE MY ARSE! It was indeed very lovely and I found some beaches where Game of Thrones was filmed - though I didn't know it at the time. In fact I also found out that Dragonstone is also nearby; and I'm thinking of veering my trip to see this.

The beginning was lovely and a "little strenuous," but then we got to GoT Beaches - YOU KNOW NOTHING JON SNOW. These hills were incredibly steep climbs; with a series of ups and downs that seemed unending. One huge climb in the middle, I could see people at the WAY top and it kept messing with my mind - thinking do I have to go ALL the way up? Truth was I didn't, and this is part of the shift.

Mental energy is so powerful; it is so easy to psyche yourself out; instead of up. I wonder if the overcast first day actually helped me mentally as I could not see how high  was going to have to climb,

Even with a great break spot with food truck and refill of water; I drank all my water during the climbs with still about 4K more climbs left to go. I was down to rationing my water at the end. And was making frequent pauses on each climb. Memories of a bad day in Italy came back to mind. I made the mistake of video-chatting with mom, during one of these, and the first thing she said was you look tired, I guess it was showing -e even thousands of miles away.

Later I came out onto the road and there was a two story overpass to climb to go back into the woods and cover another hill. Thoughts of hitchhiking and taxis came to mind. But I did a google map search for the city and saw I could again follow the street along the coast and make it home. So a relatively quick jaunt down (YEAH!!!) I made it to the beach and enjoyed a fanta and an ice cream - nothing tasted so good!

Tired and exhausted; I opted for another hotel stay. Which was awesome as it had a bathtub. To me finding a nice hotel bathtub  while hiking is the equivalent of flying first class. So a hot bath, a nap, and a nice walk to the city which was having a street carnival/ festival, followed by a nice and hearty dinner.  Day finally over.

So don't worry folks; and don't discount the walks. Part of this is just about getting my pilgrim legs and mind. I finished today at 3:00 - which is pretty fast; and there is no reason not to take a long pause/ nap in the middle of the day. I also did not plan well for water and food. Again these are things, that though I do know, seem. to take me a few days to get back into the rhythm.

So anyway - hoping I get that rhythm back - SOON, cause tomorrow is another bear, calling for rain and supposedly no food/ restaurants etc along the way.

So say a prayer, light a candle, do an interpretive dance - or whatever it is you do do, for the pilgrim - he probably needs it!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 2 - San Sebastian to Zarautz - 20km

ALL TODAYS PICS

TODAYS VIDEO
Sorry about last few minutes; camera tilted up and you get some great shots of my chin!

Surprisingly woke with little soreness or pain; until I walked down the stairs of the hotel, and felt a bit of a twinge - so to speak. The morning was overcast, but burned off later. As I walked out of my hotel and began walking, I found within about 3-4 blocks the nicest stretch of beach-front restaurants, that I had totally missed. This can be one of the downfalls of being a pilgrim, constantly en route to the next place. So while you ge a great wide taste of a people, you often can miss the great details of a specific place, by not stopping to savor. With 2 tired nights/ days in San Sebastian - I missed it. I had planned on a more leisurely pace for this hike; but with additional travel plans coming along; have built a schedule that requires movement every day - MIGHT RETHINK THIS.

After a nice promenade along the beach, the path turned treacherously steep (like how I build drama?) with a path through the woods which was kicking my but a little, but being refreshed - not too bad. And I also found my stick. It is a habit of mine to find a walking stick along the way - that I bring home as my souvenir, so to speak. My good friend who goes with me along my journeys and has recused me plenty. There is nothing like a good walking stick, especially if hills are involved. My new stick is quite primitive and a bit prickly - but I think of this like an anti-theft security system - you have to know how to grab him just right.

So with my new stick in hand, I was able to tackle the morning hills even better. When the path came out of the forest, it continued up, but along a beach-front road for a couple miles. It was here that something hit me. I am no arbiter of truth; and while there may be many explanations for wondrous events or moments (accidents, coincident, psychosis, etc.), I feel what I feel and have my own story. As I was walking still uphill, I felt really light, even with my pack on, which was surprising - cause it ain't light. And immediately I thought, "Opa," or grandfather and my dad came to mind, who passed away in December. This was the first walk he was "with me." While being in shock / denial/ numb/ disbelief for months, a bitter sweet wave of feelings swept over me. Immense love, sadness, and just missing talking to him and knowing I had a true ally in the world. And I wept as I continued on. 
Later this would become even more meaningful.

The morning was quiet with few pilgrims, which is surprising as I know there are many out here. The Albergues have been filling up in many towns,. But I met a few, a couple German ladies and then a lady chatting with a cow - LOL. OK she was taking her picture, but she was smitten. We talked briefly and I found out she was from Vancouver and doing her 2nd Camino, then got separated on an uphill piece.

The day turned lovely and warm with amazing paths along the coast. It is amazing how undeveloped the land was, with even farms on the coastal front. I think back home this could never happen. So with plenty more ups and downs; I made my way to lunch about noon, in a lovely waterfront town called Obero, I think. It was here that I reconnected with the cow lady from Vancouver.  We sat outside and chatted and relaxed and learned some about each other, when an innocent joke and question turned into something magical - a miracle I say.

We were talking about kids moving home and the difference in mom and dad's attitudes toward this; when she said her son might move back home. Thinking of our conversation, I laughed and gave her the eye, "What does your husband think of this?" And she teared up and shared he had died 6 months before unexpected. That this trip had been planned before, and her sons and friends encouraged her to take  this first step outside - so to speak. I shared of my walk earlier and my dad's death, just weeks apart from her husbands. A light meal became a connection, a connection became full of truth and healing. After this we laughed again as we shared our names - Michel & Michael!

And so the chance meeting of two strangers, becomes this moment in time of connecting, and sadness, and healing. To me this was a miracle. ACIM says miracles happen constantly and are not necessarily what we think of as Hollywood miracles; but shifts in perspective that give someone new life. And I accept this magical, wonderful miracle; and know that they are available to me always - on every path I take; even on the one to and from work.

But for some reason, on the Way, I just feel more open and expectant. Did I mention the wine?! LOL I love being on a pilgrimage and the things that happen as I turn each corner.

Well not EVERY CORNER, damn there's another hill!

OTHER HIGHLIGHTS:

• The police lockdown in the city as I was leaving
• The spring fed fountain, yum
• A beautiful and friendly horse
• Wine cheaper than water
• Watching farmers separate calves
• The treacherous downhill stone path
• The pilgrim rest stop

Buen Camino!