DAYS 41 - 43: San Quirico to Belsano (77km - 46 miles - 611 total)

Now out of Tuscany and less than 100 miles to Roma! This picture is my pilgrim passport or CRENDENTIALE - each night where I stay, it is stamped by a church or Ostello. This is my official notification that I am a pilgrim and a wonderful memory for each night along the way.

 

DAY 41 - SAT. JUNE 28: Ann Quirico to Radicofani (30km - 19 miles):
Another difficult day - maybe I should just copy and paste this phrase. It started out with 3 miles uphill and ended with 5 miles uphill, the end of course being the worst as it was by now hot and after so many miles (18 total) I was tired and a bit hungry. The nice part at the end is that since I was climbing the temperature actually dropped the higher I got, the peak was over 2700 feet high. Thought at one point I found a picnc table but no shade, so I rigged up my own cafe - check out the pics online.
Look at this picture here, which I took at the top of the first 3 mile climb that little top way off in the distance is where I would walk today...it felt a bit like Sam and Frodo heading to Mordor (though with a happier destination).

But as in life, often hard work is rewarded, and so this was the case with a wonderful hilltop city and an amazing Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) staffed entirely by volunteers who have also been on pilgrimmages. In fact several there had recently done a pilgrimage with prisoners to end in Rome and had an audience with the Pope. The Way always changes one - sometimes in small ways and sometimes in big ways.

The Ostello was entirely on a donation basis including the wonderful dinner and breakfast (very early served) they served. In fact this evening is what I imagined when I planned the voyage - a family style dinner with other pilgrims. This was the norm on the Camino Compostella (in Spain), but a rarety on this pilgrimmage. Before dinner, they welcomed and honored us by a ceremonial washing of the feet.

To me, these smaller towns have a nicer flavor of Italy than the bigger attractions of Sienna and Lucca. They are still amazing in heritage andarchitecture, but not overrun by loads of tourists and tourist type shops. I highly reccomend these when you travel to Tuscana. I was also given a new way, which now makes it possible to finish the trip by foot.


DAY 42: Sunday June 29: Radicafani to Aquapendente (25KM - 16 miles):
Today I walked out of Tuscana. Being as the day started on top of the mountain, I made incredible time coming down the first 11km - 7 miles) in just under 2 hours. AMAZING views as I awoke above the clouds and then walked down into them. I love many of the pictures and views here, and I passed tens of thousands of spider webs.

 In one field, it seemed every plant was covered with them, the hedges were lined with them like a strip of Miami condos, it was so cool and I took a bucnh of pics - not sure they capture the abundance and beauty. Interesting every spider was in the exact center of his web - perhaps Italian spiders often have "siesta".

The mddle was all in vallies and quick, with the end being another climb, but not as high or as far. I arrived before noon, but since it was Sunday and a holiday (St Peter and St Pauls anniversary - of what I am not sure), not much was open (ie library for internet), so I walked about the town and read. I am reading Dicken's Great Expenctations - it is easier to find classic literaturein English here, probably for college students. But it inspires me to read more classics too. I was early to the Ostello and a bit dehydrated from going so fast and not taking good eating-drinking breaks: Upon arrival it is necessary to call the Ostello, but as I have no phone, I had to ask someone walking by. It is always interesting when I stop people to ask for directions and in this case to ask them to call for me. When I first say "Escusa mia", it is interesting to note their expressions. I feel sure this couple felt sure I was going to ask for money, so I quickly in Italian explain I am a pilgrim and want to sleep here, but it is necessary to call, but as a pilgrim I have no phone. Could you call for me (Escusa mia. Io sono peregrino e vorrei una camera questa note aqui. Besonya chiamere, mas no telephonera. Puo auotare mia?). They did help and were very kind. SInce I was early and the Ostello was not ready, they put me in a single room, which was quite nice with a double bed.

Aquapendente is another incredible town, with a wonderful flavor of history and tradition. Yet slow enough and out of the way to enjoy it more. The towns best restaurant has offered pilgrims a special meal and for $20 I received a four course meal (antipast - pasta - prima plato - dolce; appetizer sampler - pasta - main dish - dessert), wine and water. This would easily have cost $70 - $100, without the discount and was WONDERFUL and the people again so kind. Another great day!

DAY 43: Monday June 30: Aquapendente to Belsano (22km - 13 miles):
An easier day - there you have it a new phrase, as it was downhill to start and then instead of following the normal path, I chose to walk alongside a large lake (Lago Belsano), which was lovely and had bars and cafes right on the water - Bellisimo! Belsano is another grate old city and thankfully NOT on top of a hill.  As tomorrow is a long day for me, I look forward to a lasst meal with new friend Georgio and Teresa.

DAYS 39 - 40: June 26-27: Sienna to San Quirico d'Orcia - 55km - 33 miles - 565 total)

DAY 39: June 26: Sienna to Ponte d'Arbia:
I fell in love with Sienna last night. Sienna by day was overwhelmingly touristy, but when I went out to find dinner about 7:00pm, the main square was bustling with locals, drinking and gathering as I have seen them do in most towns. It is funny (and wonderful) this way of life as I see it. The streets are desreted between one and four, but after 4, locals some out to shop, to hang out, etc. I see mixtures of generations at cafes and bars. I see families with children, etc. I love the social fabric of life here, and think a part of this is missing at home, how it is built into daily life. But for now, I love Sienna...AT NIGHT.

I left early from Sienna and despite last night was happy to go, and it was another strenuos day, but it feels as though the hills are smaller, or I am stronger or both. Plus I had supplies for my day (fruit, juice, meat). I found a cafe about 4 miles into the day, and I realize this is one of my favorite times of day, the first stop. I sit outside with a croissant filled with fruit or cream, a cappucino and simply enjoy the moment, the rest. I love the first stop...unless I get yesterdays croissant!

Later I was not paying attention to my guide who warned of a long loop around the villages along the way, meaning I would miss cafes and shops...which I did. Again luckily I was provisioned, but it also meant not so nice breaks. Already grumpy over past few days this just added to it...mostly I think a bit homesick and worn down, like my shoes, but I get to that later.I did have some nice moments of meditation, but these did not seem to last.

The day was overcast with light thunder occurring all throughout the day, but this actually kept it cooler and it was a pretty walk through Tuscany. As I reached a marker indicating 2km to my planned destination (a little over a mile), the thunder started getting louder and I could see much darker clouds rolling in, as well as lightning on the hills, which I never could catch with my camera. I was not worried as I was in a valley and not near any strikes. But I was worried about rain, so quickened my pace, and it seemed as I quickened, so did the clouds also moving in the direction of the village I was going to - Ponte d'Arbia. Louder it got and the wind picked up, so I picked up my pace as I enetered the outskirts of town. A few blocks later, I spied a bar ahead to my left and kept up my pace. 10 steps from the bar, I felt the first drop. Within a minute the rain was falling in buckets.

This gift of perfect timing lifted my spirits as do the many miracles and kind gestures along the way. I firmly believe people treat pilgrims better than tourists, even though we dont smell as nice. The Ostello here was self service with everyoine in town knowing the key was under the matt, a kind town with lovely people. I hope this energizes me for the nine remaining days of walking....


FRI JUNE 27: Ponte d'Arbia to San Quirico d'Orcia:
After yesterdays rain, I awoke to a thick and heavy fog. I loved it and chose to take the hilly loop in the morning,,,,so my spirits must still be lifeted. It was a lovely and seemingly mysterious walk in the mountains in the fog where I snapped pics of sunrise, trees and spiderwebs crystallized in moisture. There is something other-wordly about fog and being alone in nature. And only an hour or two later, my favorite stop of the day - PRIMA. My cappuncino, croissant and zigarette (YES IM SMOKING - but will NOT in the USA). One of the things I hate about smoking is how bad it smells, well here it is actually an IMPROVEMENT on my smell and to me seems a part of italian life...

The day was clear and lovely later as I walked over hills and vineyards, ending up in a lovely village atop another hill...of course. Tonight there are 5 pilgrims here besides me, 3 italiand and a dutch man - who is now walking home to the Netherlands, after reaching Rome, he will be walking for more than 6 months....OH LA LA. I dont think I could do this, or rather, dont want to do this. Two of the Italians, Therese and Giorgio, I met last night and they are walking from Sienna to Rome.



I also found an amusing guide for correct toilet use, which given my earlier posts, felt sort of appropriate...HOPE YOU ENJOY!

DAY 38:June 25 Colle di Val d'Elsa to Sienna (0K - 0 miles - 532 total)

Last night I enjoyed strolling the streets of the OLD and NEW parts of the city in Colle di Val d'Elsa, especially after I found the ELEVATOR. The old part Towers about 10 stories about the lower level and the streets are treachourously steep....in a crazy way....it must never snow here. But the elevator is a Marvel, bored through solid rock it takes you to top or bottom in seconds, and at the bottom you exit via a cave-like tunnel. Beats the first time I went back up top....sweating all the way! I also realize I like cities like this, that are a little touristy, but not quite so busy. I stayed in the convent and had a lovely host and room....again all for free.

Viva la Providence!
This morning when I awoke at my normal time - about 5:30, it was pouring rain, so thinking I had a lighter day /(less walking - about 12-15 miles), I decided to sleep another hour and see the weather then. I woke up again at 8:00 - feeling groggy and it was not raining but a bit overcast, so I decided to take the bus to Sienna ($5 - well spent).

However when the bus arrived it got full fast and as I have a HUGE Pack and long stick, I thought maybe I should just wait 40 minutes for next bus, so I sat back down as Others boarded. I then watched as the bus driver got some other hikers off the bus and began storing their equipment under the bus - PERFECT - so I quickly ran up and stred ine to ...PROVIDENCE!

I am SO GLAD I did this as Sienna is HUGE, much bigger than I would have thought a city of 60,000 would be, but I am sure with all the tourists and they are here in busloads, the population is probably double. Getting into and out of large cities on foot is usually incredibly long and boring.


It is a beautiful city full of rich architecture, history etc., but right now it is swelling with tourists and touristy type shops - it is just not the Italy I want to see. I am staying in a convent here - again free, showered changed and walked about a bit, then found a quiet shady bench out of the way and spent a couple hours reading. A German couple asked me, why I was reading and not looking about if this was my only day here, and I pretty much shared the same - I like being out of the way, in real villages, not tourist sites.

I was planning on spending another day here, but now am happy to leave Tomorrow.,

Days 35 - 37: Lucca to Colle di Val d'Elsa (95km - 57 miles - 532 Total)

I have had big distant days and they have NOT been easy. Tuscany is all hills, so its been a bit of an up and down. I did over 67 km in two days which would normally take me three or four. So in my mind, I have gained a day or two in my plan to reach Rome. However today left me a GRUMPY PILGRIM....

SUN JUNE 22: Lucca - Fuechio:  (37K - 22 miles - longest day yet)
A pleasant surprise happened last night in Lucca, Birgit, my first travel buddy ended up in the same Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) as me, So we had dinner with 2 other German girls and caught up on each others adventure...hers being a bit more risque! The next day (today) we planned on meeting in the same city about 17k away (10 miles), but I got up early as was in this village by 11:00 am, and just felt like it would waste a day to stop, so I thought I would go to the next village with an Ostello - which was an additional 12K (7 miles). I was kind of excited because this town's Ostello is actually built into the bridge (WAY COOL). Unfortunately SUNDAYS SUCK as it is difficult to contact people and when I arrived  at Ponte a Cappiano, no one was there and no one would answer the phone, so I was stuck.

A nice lady in the bar phoned ahead to the next village (another 3 miles) and found me a cheap room in a boarding house. However she just gave me the name and address....after I walked about a mile, I suddenly realized, I am walking into a town of 30,000 people and have no idea of any of the streets and did not ask her to tell me what it was near (church, town center , etc.) SHIT! . How in the hell am I going to find this. Luckliy for the first time ever, as I walked into the city there was a city map with street index posted in bronze and the street was a major one and the street I was on would merge right into it...LUCKY PILGRIM!

It was quite lovely and had an awesome terrace. But man I was beat when there, though not as beat as the first few days, so my body is street tough! And vesides that listening to my music made me miss turns, twice, so I had to retrace steps (CATES - I take back that beer offer!). Also today, I was confirmed in my annoyance at Lucca being touristy. In Lucca, I got a small gelati which had two ping pong ball scoops in it, something I had never seen before (so smal serving), today in a small village along the way, i ordered the same small bowl and it was crammed full and about 3 inches of mound above the edge. Trust me - getting away from the tourist hot spots is way better!

Its also funny the lessons that come to  me on the walk, sometimes they seem like major life questions or challenges and sometimes, just practical walking advice. Todays tip is do NOT tuck your shirt in your underware. Because my pack is tight against my back, my shirt back is always wet with sweat, and when it was tucked in me undies, it created a nice flow to my, how should I say, rear attributes, which created the perfect storm for chaffing. OUCH! The last four miles were hell, as was sitting in the pizzeria waiting for dinner.

Another good lesson however is the restorative power of sleep, the next morning fett and butt were happy and ready for another day!

MON JUNE 23: Fuecchio to Gambassi Terme (31k - 19 miles):
Today was to be the TRI-FECTA of difficult days: 1. yoyo path (all ups and downs), 2. Long Distant (though originally this was my 36K day, but yesterdays misfortune (closed Ostello) reduced the mileage, and 3. Fa caldo (HOT)! This was a tough day, taking me 10 hours to do the entire walk, though I did take a long lunch-nap break (about an hour). Please enjoy these pics as I WORKED HARD FOR THEM. it was an amazing day with incredible views the entire time as I walked along (up and down) a ridge in Tuscany! What added to the toughness is that for the almost last 12 miles, there were no cities, shops or cafes, so first there are no good breaking points and second, you dont ever know how far you've gone and how much is left. 1 mile before the Ostello, there was finally a bar, and I have never been so happy to see a bar in my life!

This day made me really realize how not only physical this journey is, but also mental, because though my energy was good all day, my mental energy went down at end, making me even slower. The Ostello is Gambassi was nice and there were alot of pilgrims there, I had dinner with about 12 people - five of them Italian guys who walk together and like to sing...they sang throughout most of the dinner....it was odd and interesting. And then there was the Spanish lady whose laugh shattered glass,,,,hysterical. I just wish my italian was better as I dont think I got all the jokes.

TUES JUNE 24: Gambassi Terme to Colle di Val d'Elsa (28K - 17 miles)
I got a really early start today as I could not find my clock when i awoke, so I think I left at about 5:30. I also made some individual choices about routes and probably saved myself a mile or two of hill climbing. I am beginning to think that part of the NEW mapping of the camino, is for tourist reasons and they want you to hit many towns. I was a little disappointed when I passed this really nice hotel cafe at 7:30 - the first I saw all day only to realize it was closed until 8am. and I did not want to waste 45 mins of walking time early. It was a nice crisp morning and I got to see the sunrise...i probably took way too many pics. Then I passed through an amazing old city San Gigmiano, where I had a nice coffee on a terrace overlooking the hills. I also worked hard to get to this city as it was high on a hill. I made great time and made it into Colle, about 1:30pm, but as usual my worst part of day - finding Ostello and finding Tourist office. And italy is like Spain in that many places close from 12:30 - 3 or 4, which both the Ostello and Tourist office were, so I ended up walking back and forth a couple of times. Adding to my already general grumpiness.

I think I am ready to leave, its not easy being a nomad, a different city every day. I dream of my own bed now and air conditioning, though I did have it on the two nights previos (Lucca and Fuecchio) and unexpected pleasure. i took a picture of the CLIMA maching. But I have less than two weeks left, I know, but it is beginning to feel less like an adventure and more like work or something I have to check off as having been accomplished. But then there are moments like today as I was nearing my end city, a van just pulled over right in front of me - which first made the GRUMPY pilgrim even grumpier, because I was going to have to walk way out in the highway to get around it, As I passed the driver he reached out and handed me three apricots, and said they were for the pilgrim going to Rome. Its these moments that encourage me, and allow me to lessen the GRUMP. A farmer waving his fist in triumph as he passes me, a nicely dressed lady in a city, saying COMPLIMENTI COMPLIMENTI.

I know I can do this, and enjoy it, but I do miss home.....

Day 34: June 21: Camaoire to Lucca (24 km - 15 miles - 475 total)

Last night I stayed in an Osteria - which best as I can tell is like a religious school and community center. It was not so nice, but a free bed and shower, one should not complain and the people were very nice  (Molto gentile).

It was a nice evening, I notice that a narrow street with high buildings creates shady sèpots most of the day, and the main street was one long street through the entire village allowing a nice breeze throughout the day.

My guide warned me that the second half of today would be without any shops or cafes, so I packed heavy with food and drink, but the second half was just 12 km and mostly flat. Meanwhile I added about 5 lbs to my sac which did not feel so good. Especially as the first hour was a climb of over 1000 feet. Its not so much the height, but the paths, mostly narrow and stony. Going up is strenuous and going down treachorus. But I did well.

And I guess I am getting much stronger as it was a quick day, arriving just aftern noon. I also seem to be more comfortable using the great outdoors - hell it aint much different than using one of those men,s toilets. This cracks me up as I dont feel all that outdoorsy, but today I didnt even think about where next village was, justy hopped in the woods and took care of business.

Some nice views and good timing today on my walk, as I said I am definitely getting stronger. Lucca is an incredible city totally walled around, but overrun with tourists - though this did make it easy to find the Tourist Office, there is three!. I guess I really am opne too, but in my mind I am Michele (Mi-Kel-ee) the peregrino. It is completely walled in, and packed with shops and restaurants - tonight I think I splurge a little and eat some nice pasta and wine...I still cannot imagine eating the italian way with 2- 4 courses....I would not be able to walk.

The Ostello here is amazing it is a 3-bedroom apartment, fully appointed, and again all siimply for donation. They tell me it is full tonight (4 people), but I have my own room which I like. I also did some laundry (in the sink) as my shirt today started walking without me. The Stinky Tourist lives on!!!

And also finally I find a city, Lucca,  that gives me the credit I deserve, the largest and central piazza is for Saint Michael - - naturally. Tomorrow I walk only 16 km to Abbadia di Pozzeveri, but as it is Sunday, this always poses a problem in finding a bed.

Ciao!

DAY 33 - June 20: Massa - Camaiore(25km - 15 miles - 460 Total)

Todays walk was GORGEOUS again, leaving Massa with a street lined with Orange Trees, I thought of grabbing one, but was not sure the etiquette. I left early and had to climb into the mountains, and so had some amazing views of the sea. Early on a came across a WITCH bar, then later had to absolve myself to use a pilgrim toilet.....a hedgerow! After this I thought maybe Sigrid had cursed me, given her earlier episode. Not sure where she is, but thought these were all omens for running into her. Morning walking is good, afternoon, it gets tough as the heast kicks in. I am a lil worried once I leave the mountains again.

Today I thought of my father alot, the first was when a truck passed me by with a loud speaker on top announcing, "Pesce" (fish) as it drove thru neighborhoods; and later a mailman drove up on a scooter while I was at a cafe. Miss you Pops!

Camiore is a lovely village, of about 30,000 -  just about the right size in my mind...lots of restaurants, shops and cafes to feed me and not so much that it makes it hard to get into or out of town. And right now I am in the library, so I get internet too.

Tomorrow another long day into Lucca, a much bigger town, so am hoping to upload recent pics.

Oh I also invented a new Italian word...Benella  - for something that is good (bene) and beautiful (bella). I like it and these Italians better give me credit...YESTERDAY was definitely a BENELLA DAY.

Pictures soon....CIAO!

DAY 32: Massa - Pilgrim Vacation

Best day yet. I took train from Sarzanna to Massa in early morning, found tourist office (ALWAYS A PAIN). Found internet for quick updates with pics and blòog, found a room in lovely church with lovely franciscan monk, Eugenio, and loaded a lighter day pack to go to the beach.

About a 3 mile walk...nothing for me now, I found the beach. In Italy most beaches are private and are sort of like country clubs. The club I found costs $1500 per season, but being it was Thursday was not crowded and they rented me a primo spot for $13. There was a nice restaurant, and I got a chair, umbrella, beach bed...it was fabulous day off.

A nice light salad with white whine (I am becoming italian I think...call me mik-el-eee), I napped, read (a book I found in the last Ostello, and had the best time. In fact I almost cried when I had to leave...it was so nice. Making me think I will need a vacation from my vacation. At dinner I sat next to some Americans, but never let on I was one....after all, now I am Mik-el-eee.

And I so want this paddle boat with slide for my lakehouse that I saw here

DAYS 31 - 32: June 18 - 19: Aulla to Massa (40KM - 25miles - 445miles total)

PICTURES: https://viafrancigenawithmichael.shutterfly.com/pictures

JUNE 18: Aulla to Sarzana:
Last night, the village was dead after dinner. I wonder if this is because of the city in a way being killed in the war. The city is all new and does not have the structure or form that most cities do that promote community - piazzaz, etc. It makes me think that how we build our structures forms somewhat how we live our lives. If we want community or connection, we must build spaces that invite us in, not shut us out. I think of Dallas and how now even our yards and gardens are walled off, creating separation not connection. It makes me a little sad.

TODAY the walk was TOUGH, but beautiful. We passed a very high village BILBOA and climbed and descended on very difficult and narrow paths full of stones. I twisted my ankles many times, but none severley...luckily. Also many passes were very close to the edge and very narrow. I just kept moving forward and had little problems. One one pass, I found a VERY HAPPY DAISY who was dancing in the wind...make sure you look close at this pic, it is amazing and funny and captures the spirit of the walk...most days! The progress was slow and my travelling mate, Sigrid, had a few problems in the woods....it is important when you are a pilgrim that your toilet paper does not ROLL away from you down the mountain!!!! Later in the day, the views were amazing including that of the Mediterraneo....which I reach tomorrow.

Sarzanna is a lovely city with a HORRIBLE OSTELLO for pilgrims. It was dirty with mattresses on the floor, but it was our home for the night. We had dinner at a lovely cafe- pizzeria and I had the COWBOY PIZZA which included corn, beans and potatoes...an interesting mix. We laughed long into the night of our adventures during the day.

JUNE 19: Sarzana to Massa:
Massa is on the sea, and today I spend the day in the city and on the beach....perhaps more story to come.

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A PILGRIM

I thought it might be interesting to see what a typical day is like during this journey....

1. Wake up, and eat a lil something (italian breakfasts suck - pastry and expresso - as does their bread) and pack bag - usually about 6-630am. It takes me about 10 minutes to pack, and it is funny, but I have an absolute system for everything (clothes in bottom, toiletries here...
2. Start Walking. Depending upon how long I am planning or walking or how hot it is, if a long walk (>18 miles) or if it is going to be hot, I try and be on the road by 7, and sometimes I even start at 6 in especially hot spots. A luxury day (or lazy pilgrim day) starts at 8, usually if I plan to walk very short or take train and do a skip. On hot or tough walks (hills), I average 2 miles an hour (when breaks included), cool times and flat walks I average closer to 3 mph.
3. Breaks: I stop about every 2 hours for 15 - 30 minutes. I take my shoes off (sometimes socks too) and eat and drink something. Normally I carry some fruit, some ham or other dried meat and cheese and some OJ. I will take a longer break around lunch and sometimes even nap. Finding a good break spot is sometimes hard - i have some pictures of not so fun ones (underpass, etc.) I prefer cafes and bars or a nice bench or picnic tale.
4. Arrival: I have tended to arrive in towns in early to mid afternoon, and I always try to find the tourist info office first if they have one, as this gives me info on computers, a map and eating and shopping. This is NOT an easy job and one of my least favorite, finding the office in a city with no map. I then usually head to the hostile (pilgrim hotel) I am hoping to stay in. Once there, i get a stamp in my pilgrim passport, I fill out a police document indicated who i am and where i am staying and get a lil tour and rules- info talk.
5. Tourist- Shopping time: Once checked in, showered and sometimes short nap, I assess my food for the next day and see if I need anything. Then I spend afternoon, evening in city - journaling, looking at cites, shopping for food for walk, eating and drinking and getting Gelati!!!
6. Bed Time: Normally between 9 - 11pm. Usually I read, I have bought several books here, in fact I bought one today, Henry James, The turning of the Screw (Only had a few classics in English).

NORMAL DAILY BUDGET:  ($29 - $59  though mstly closer to lower)

1. Food for walk (fruit, meat,cheese, juice) $5.00
2. Breaks at Cafes\ bars.  (coffee\ coke\ pastry)  - $10
3. Room for night (most are donation based provided by local churches, where i normally leave $5, or $10 if the people or place is really nice (wash machine, fan, etc). If I have to get a hotel, these usually cost about $30. In last 2 weeks, I have only had a hotel one night, all others were donation and that one cost $27, but included breakfast.
4. Dinner: If I eat out with others, this is usually about $15, if alone, its usually about $10 as sometimes I will just buy food to prepare or get something quick.                          

Oh and there is PLENTY of TIME for thinking..........

DAY 30: june 16: pontremali - Aulla (32Km - 20 miles - 420 total)

277 MILES TO ROME.....

The day was gorgeous, and I left Pontremoli about 7:00. The sky was blue, and this was one of the best walks so far. Lots of beautiful scenery, walks in the hills, walks through wonderful old towns, including places that seemed like a dead end, but as you came close to the wall you could see it opened to the left or right. It has some tough climbs and some tough descents, but not really long ones. So it was a wonderful walk.

As I was walking into Filattiera, (which by the way took 90 steps up), I saw a sign for bibliotecque (library), and since at that point I have been out of touch for 3 - 4 days, I thought I might see if they had internet. Often the smaller towns have fewer people and fewer rules (like only 30 minutes of use, etc.). I could not find it, but saw the Municipo (City hall) so went inside to ask. The security guard sent me upstairs, where I explained, "Sono Pelligrino, no computer, no telephono. Vorrei usaro computer con internet a parlo con parenti" (I am a pilgrim with no phone, no computer and like to find one to speak with my family). A nice lady ushered me into an office (hers) and sat me down. I ased if it was OK, and possibly use it for an hour, se just smiled and waved her hands as if to say, just use it. This nice lady was the MAYOR of the town and I was at her desk. While I updated my blog and answered email, she conducted her business with multiple people at the conference table across the room, always introducing them to the PILGRIM. I am still floored his occured, she was so nice.

The rest of the day was nice and later found the city of Aulla to be strange to what I have seen so far, specifically that it is ALL NEW, the priest told me that all was destroyed in WWII. But here they are so kind and have recommended a restaurant and even provide a computer, which i am on now.

DAYS 26 - 29: Fidenza > Pontremoli (91km - 46 miles - 400Total)

Sorry for so long, but no internet in awhile, but a GREAT FEW DAYS!!!

Amazing pics and views: https://viafrancigenawithmichael.shutterfly.com/pictures

FRI JUNE 13: Fidenza to Medasson; A beautiful days walk after an interezsting night...the hills are back

and I love ith it was a challenging day. Last night I had a beautiful room in a monastery facing west, so after sunset I opened windo to let in the air, but within a gfew minutes was attacked by mosquito, so decided I would try and face the night with window closed. Two hours into sleep I awoke sweating and very hot, so I thought maybe I open just a little...another hour, no sleep, so I think I brave the mosquitos. As soon as I open the window and set back down,,,within seconds a storm blew in and cooled off my room...MAYBE I DO HAVE PILGRIM OR COQWBOY MOJO!!!! It was so cool listening to all the shutters bang against the walls, etc.

Later in day I was forced to do some CIRQUE DE SOLEIL BALANCING ACT at the mens toilet again...I JUST DONT GET IT...but I scored well!!!!!

 

SAT JUNE 14: Medesano to Cassio:

This was my longest day yet at 32 km, about 20 miles. The morning was good and I made amazing time, but the afternoon was all climbing and I had not eaten well or prepared good for this. One stage had a stone stream bed rising up at the steepness of a stairwell for over a mile...imagine going up a mile of steps!!!

When i got here, i was taken a few steps and then stopping,,,it was crazy, and I realized more than physically tired, I was PSYCHING MYSELF OUT...I kept looking up and thinking I CANT DO THIS. When i realized this, I was sitting looking out over 50 - 75 miles of Italy that I had already walked through and I thought to get my music player. The song that came on was a spiritual song called "I just cant give up now"  whose first line is "there will be mountains that I need to climb", I almost cried. at the serendipity. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37PCbh9KppA ). A huge shout out to my colleague at brookhave Jason Cates for pushing me to bring my music, when i told him I just wanted to listen to me....now I realize that often what is in front of me is not what causes me the biggest problems, its whats going on inside of me.

Later at the top was a beautiful bar, with a woman who treatemet me as her child and made sure I had food and drink, a lovely salad and beer. Then even more fun, as I began walking the last 4 miles to the village I was staying in, I saw ahead of me two hikers, a little woman and tall man. I could tell they were tired as the woman tried to flag down cars and then they almost veered off the road when it was close to where we needed to go, as I came upon them, they turned around and said, "Are you Michael Bailey?"

What the hell???? It seems they had been following me by a couple of days and seen my entries in the quwst books, where I always sign with a lil smiley face with cowboy hat and the label of cowyboy pellegrinni, They had also met several people I had met along the way. Annette and Charlie are from England and have done may walks, we would walk together for the next few days as well as Sigrid from germany, who we would meet later that night in the Ostello in Cassio...which has another fiunny story!  I forgot how wonderful it is to have company and would greatly enjoy the next few days.

SUN JUNE 15: Cassio to Cissa Pass:

The weather was overcast and rainy all day, evidently, Northern Italy is experiencing floods...OOH LAA LAA what an experience. so I stuck to the road, and truly did not mind it. It was a bit cold, but I like walking in the rain and there was little traffic. I AM ALSO NOW IN TUSCANY!!!

Sigrid and I met up in a bus stop and sat out a hard rain and later a bar in the afternoon, and she told me a funny story about the house manager from our place the night before. Andrea was so kind and had tons of food for guests to prepare on their own and then pay on the honor system. Sigrid and Annete made a lovely

salad and pasta, we had wine and it was lovely and fiun to be with pilgrims again. It also was the second night I could sleep well with windows open, cool breeze and no mosquitos. in fact last night I got cold!!

Anyway Sigriod saw our house manager having a lively conversation in the garden with this old lady manaquin that he had sitting in a chair....she said it was very odd...remind you of anyone...maybe NORMAN BATES!!!!!! Glad she did not tell me the night before. Again we all end up in another lovely hostile and they prepare us dinner which was wonderful!

MONDAY June 16: Cissa Pass to Pontremoli:

Another overcast day. An easy walk energy wise as it was all downhill on road surfaces, but again tough on the legs. But it eneded in a beautiful village Pontremoli that was incredibly charming and Sigrid, Charlie and Annette and I shared what I believe is our final meal as they move onto to visit family. A great few days!

DAY 25: June 12: Fiorenzuola - Fidenza (20km; 13 miles, 354 total)

Yesterday with a lot of afternoon time, I decided to plan the rest of my time and decided I will NOT be able to walk all the way to Rome, not the way i wish too...that is I dont want to walk 20 - 30 miles per day. I will end each day exhausted and be moving to fast to enjoy. So I have chosen to slow down through Tuscany and skip some sections later as I near Rome, thinking these to be more hot.

I pass a lovely villa with a pool and so want to stay here a day or two, or even just 30 minutes to swim and relax...I imagine a cafe by the pool....This morning it feels not as hot and the walk is lovely again with a few hills and some paths that are not busy highways. The day is lovely and quickly I see a range of hills and small mountains, called the little Alps (Alpinees)



I also am forced to use the MANs TOILET in a bar this morning, which to me feels like I am in the gym as you must squat over the hole...I dont quite understand why women get a seat and we do not. Up until now, in the country cafes, I have simply snuck into the ladies one.

 I dont walk too far and am in the city before noon. i hope to find a washing machine and de-stink again.I feel recharged after a couple down days, 

I know it is good to be alone and yet am lonely too, It is a dance I do every day. And last night was wonderful, just enjoying the people and the place. I imagine people I know living this way, I easily see my father, who was a mailman sliding into a cafe and joking with locals, or my mom with her sisters or friends.

I like this picture and it makes me less lonely, thinking of home and here in some weird mixed up story....

DAY 24: June 11: Piacenza - Fiorenzueola (23km - 14 miles - 341 total)

Yesterday after arriving in Piancenza and getting a little internet, I checked into the Pilgrim Hotel, and was given a roommate, which turned out to be the blessing I needed to get a little renewed after the night before sleep and crappy day walking. Andra is a 29 year old pilgrim from the Mountain region above Milan, he restores churches and homes and is walking the opposite way...Toward >St Bernard Pass. He spoke no english, but we had a nice afternoon and meal....and reminded be of the blessings that can come, when I am in my worst temperament. i was sorry to see him go the other direction come the morning.

Today was another crappy day of walking, I would have been happy to take the train 14 miles entirely along a busy highway. IT SUCKED. I walked about 10 or 11, then got on the bus.
 Another new source of anxiety as this is a different system, but no hitches...all went well.

The best think that happened is I saw a hill and NO RISE FIELDS for past 2 days! Though my body looks like I have the measles from so many mosquito bites. San Rocco is Patron Saint oif Pilgrims, giving up wealth to travel and help the ill and poor...in his later life he was infected with something so supposedly would reveal his inflinction...maybe I should too?

In Fiorenzuola, I looked around the city, tried to get some inidan food, but the lunch crowd ate it, and then had an incredible evening walk that I imagine will linger in my mind when I think of Italy....

I walk out my door about 9:15pm, the sun has set, but it is not dark. The temperature has dropped early and it is warm but comfortable. The yellow street lights bath the night in an amber glow. Starlings dart and chase each other in the sky I can see above me between the buildings. I pass a little cafe nested in the church, it a grapevine enclosure with an older couple and then 3 little ladies, each having a conversation of their day. I turn the corner to see a young couple eyeing the merchandise in a home store. The wife is scanning the merchandise for every detail, meanwhile the young man shifts back and forth, I think wanting to gget to the cafe for a biera or home to see football (not US football). Arouns another corner, a larger cafe is full of older men sitting in groups of 2's and 3's, teasing, smoking, drinking laughing....

There is somthing about the life here that breathes connection. It seems most of life takes place outside even in the heat and revolves around connections to your friends, your family your neighbors. I feel like we miss some of this in the US and that simply the sturcutre of living here feeds connection. Maybe I am just a bit dreamy tonight, but I go to be with a million thoughts.

It is hard to sleep in the heat and I wonder in this hot humid place, why air conditioning is still a rarety in hmes and even businesses. It intriques me, but then I think, maybe we americans are too soft. We say if we give a child everything, they will become a spoiled brat. Arent we in some ways doing the same as adults...trying to fix every discomfort and inconvenience as soon as possible. Maybe life should have a bit of discomfort, just to keep us real...and NOT BRATS.

The picture to the right is of a gas station and bar...thought it was maybe a little bit of a mixed message---eh?

DAY 23; June 10: St Christina - Piancenza (18km - 12 miles - 317 total)

So today started out bad and I lost all my energy for the walk. Bad nights sleep ( the last place I stayed was over teen center) followed by the first 4 miles through tall wet grass, I was so annoyed and soppy , especially as I had no coffee yet.

This only got worse when I stepped in a hole; I sank below my knee is some culvert and am extremely lucky that I did not get hurt. So today my internal WHINING METER is going berserk.

I want to go home. I want to be clean. I want clean clothes. I want a hamburger on the grill. I want air conditioning.

WOW I am such a whiner. About this time, I am sitting in a piazza in front of a church inChignolo Po, and its obvious kids are gathering for some sort of field trip - looks like a beach or pool outing. Anyway, I can tell I am a subject of interest...some alien visitor. A five year old boy works up the courage to approach me, and i think asks me what I am. When I tell him an American and a cowboy from Texas, he runs back to his friends and I am engulfed by a few kids wanting to know what this pelligrini stuff is about...and wheres my horse and gun.

Later I had already decided to train the second half od day as it is into a large city with 12 miles with mo breaks just industiral areas...so a light day except for the crappy start. Pretty fancy train station above - eh?

A demani...

Day 22: June 9: Pavia to Santa Christini e Bissone

 The say all roads lead to Rome, which I understand, but evendentially not ALL TRAINS.

Yesterday I chose to hang out in Pavia a bigger city to recover from my heat stroke (like the Italians I like to exxagerate), update me blog and then take a train out of the city stopping 8 - 12 km before my next stop St Christina.

Some say using a train is cheating (Sandra, I wont mention names if you dont!), but for me theis pilgrimmage is not just a spiritual journey, or a physical journey, it is also a cultural one. I wanted to meet Switzerland and mainly Italy. So taking public transport is a huge way of life here, and in some ways more of a challenge than walking with a guide.

I must be able to comnmunicate clearly and understand the responses. Where am i going? Which train? What platform? Is there on train direct or do I have to connect? Each a lòesson in anxiety.

So in the station, I get it pretty clearly that my train leaves Bannerio 1 at 13:30. No problem....one would think. But as I sat on this train for 30 minutes, I realized I should be there by now and next thing I know, I ended up in Milan and in the subway....OH SHIESHA!

I hopped off, and thought momentarily about staying, but knew I had a reservation, so I went to a automatic train machine...MORE ANXIETY and puchased a ticket back to Pavia and the train arrived within 10 m inutes, and so back to the beginning I went.

When I got there I asked the same questions, but for the next train to St Christina and I learned there are two platform 1...1 and 1Trezzo. Mine was the 1-trezzo - which also happened to be behind contruction fencing making it look out of order.

Anyway off to St Christina, this time no hitches and I just take the train all the way. I am actually quite proud of my mastering the accident! I also stopped by the Basilica of St Michael...yup that be me!

I spend the night in another Pilgrim Hostile (FREE) but though the peeps were nice it was over a sort of teen rec center which didnt close untill 11 and teens are loud...not a nice night.