DAY 19 - 21: Vercelli > Pavia (80km; 60miles.305 total)

Day 19: Vercelli - Robbio: Super Pellegrinni
When I last left you I had lost my guide and though the way is marked pretty good, it is not perfect, so without a guide it is easier toget lost and also you have no idea when the next town is - important for water and food and sleeping.

So when I left the Abbey in Vercelli, I went to the only otyher stop I made, the office of tourism and luckily it was there....GRATZIE MIA DIO! havingto wait for the office to open at 9:00, I was getting late start, but also realizing Vercelli is a big city, I wanted to try and find internet, which I di ...these were my last postings. So after this I got a really late start 11:00. But I was fully charged, and though a bit hot was not too bad. And bought a new pair of STYLISH ITALIAN SUNGLASSES for $5.

Having realized my limited time is now going to make me step up my mileage each day, I quicken my pace: but my body is now stronger and I did 18 km in just over 4 hours....2 weeks ago this would take me 6 hours.

The way was good and only a bit hot, but when walking through fields without shade, it can be rough. Thanks to my teaching colleague Jason Cates for pushing me to bring music. Todays walk was mostly boring. So the music helped me keep my pace...and my sanity. I was also stopped by a young girl on a farm who wanted to know everything about me, especially when she learned I am from Texcas. My Italian is not this good and boy could she talk alot!

I arrive in a small village of Robbio and am given free room above City Hall. And no I was NOT ARRESTED, though this might be an idea for another free nights room and meals. It was not a pretty room, but the price was right and allowed me to go early the next day. With having the town clock outsidemy window was also a GREAT ALARM CLOCK...maybe too great!

DAY 20 June 7 Robbio - Tramello. So another day of farmlands...ahhh. Rice fields aplenty and the mosquitos seemed intriqued by thisnew american cuisine. I can just imagine the conversation:

"Hey dude, have you tried this new american food?"
"Si, amoro Texas BarB Molto bene!!!"

The tractors are interesting for these water fields with wheels that are like gears.

My pace is good and villages tend to be about 3 - 4 miles apart giving me nice breaks. As it is Saturday, the cafes are full of old men and several times, I stop and hang with the fellas, but only for short pauses.

I take a longer break and nap outside a cemetary sleeping on a shaded wall. Thecemetaries are interesting...morelike stylish town homes...maybe they dont bury people here, or maybe these are for the richer folks, not really sure.

My sister Debbie could not make this walk for sure, as little gecko lizards are everywhere, I must scare about 30 . 40 each day, and today a large black snake scurried across my path just outside Mortara, he was so fast I could not get his picture.

...

I arrive in tramello very tired and decide to have a panache before I find my room for the night. A òlittle old man, Carlo rides up on his bicycle which is painter VI FRANCIGINA and is the welcome wagon, he stamps my pilgrim book, finds me a room - also for free above a local bar. Molto gentile!

As it is Saturday night, the bar is lively with Kareokee, though I choose not to participate, dont want tointerfere with US Italian relations.

Another good fast day, but please NO MORE RICE FIELDS. I think I have donated enough blood!!!!

DAY 21: Tremello - Pavia: 
 How exciting, guess what i find today...MORE FFRICKIN RICE FIELDS!!!
I may never eat rice again. i am in the state of Pavia which guess what is italy's and europes largest producer of rice...I could have got that question on Jeopardy without having read it today...OH LA LA!

 Today is a longer day at 30km- about 20 miles, but I am cranking out the miles in the morning going over 4 in the morning with my first stop at a basilica for a young deaf-dumb girl who took shelter from a storm in a shelter which had a fresco (ainting) of the virgin mary. She appeared to the girl , healed her and told her to tell everyone to build a memorial there to protect the region. Cool!

Its funny who comes with me on this journey and I mean with so much quiet time, my thoughts flow freely, and an unexpected companion is my 10th grade biology teacher and cross country coach, Mr. Wright. I guess i used to run on my toes, and he would say, "Bailey, are you a dancer or a runner?"  "I'm a runner sir!" Throughout the day I hear this, Bailey, heel toe" and it reminds me to use all of my foot, lessening the strain on my achilles tendon.

Later in the morning I still make great progress, finishing 2\3 of the way by 11, then the heat kicks in. italy is having an EARLY HEAT WAVE. The afternoon drags as I am walking in mostly sun and some on streets which amplifies the heat. It takes me another 4 hours to finish the day. The last 4 miles is by a large river where the other side is beaches with people swimming and no access on my side...it is TORTURE!!!!

I eventually find a BEACH BAR and stumble in for rest, later also rest under a motorway with some cool graffiti.

I arrive in Pavia about 3 totally exhausted and find the Hostile will not open until 6;30, I can bearly stand I am so tired, so I go into the church next to it, and it is cool insode and I lay on a pew and fall asleep. I am woken about 30 minutes later by akind lady who says they will get me a room now, no waiting. Unfortunately it is a festival weekend and all the rooms are full, but they invite me to a church barbecue and find me a room next door, unfortunately not free, but such is life.

The heat wave is intense with it being very humid, I am not sure how I will make the long mileage in such heat and am a bit frustrated. I think I may try and take a day or two break and find my italian friends from my walk across Spain (Gino and Pierra run a dairy farm and were so kind, and live within 50 miles of where I am.

Wish me luck!
PS Dont tell anyone, but I miss the montains!