DAYS 41 - 43: San Quirico to Belsano (77km - 46 miles - 611 total)

Now out of Tuscany and less than 100 miles to Roma! This picture is my pilgrim passport or CRENDENTIALE - each night where I stay, it is stamped by a church or Ostello. This is my official notification that I am a pilgrim and a wonderful memory for each night along the way.

 

DAY 41 - SAT. JUNE 28: Ann Quirico to Radicofani (30km - 19 miles):
Another difficult day - maybe I should just copy and paste this phrase. It started out with 3 miles uphill and ended with 5 miles uphill, the end of course being the worst as it was by now hot and after so many miles (18 total) I was tired and a bit hungry. The nice part at the end is that since I was climbing the temperature actually dropped the higher I got, the peak was over 2700 feet high. Thought at one point I found a picnc table but no shade, so I rigged up my own cafe - check out the pics online.
Look at this picture here, which I took at the top of the first 3 mile climb that little top way off in the distance is where I would walk today...it felt a bit like Sam and Frodo heading to Mordor (though with a happier destination).

But as in life, often hard work is rewarded, and so this was the case with a wonderful hilltop city and an amazing Ostello (Pilgrim Hotel) staffed entirely by volunteers who have also been on pilgrimmages. In fact several there had recently done a pilgrimage with prisoners to end in Rome and had an audience with the Pope. The Way always changes one - sometimes in small ways and sometimes in big ways.

The Ostello was entirely on a donation basis including the wonderful dinner and breakfast (very early served) they served. In fact this evening is what I imagined when I planned the voyage - a family style dinner with other pilgrims. This was the norm on the Camino Compostella (in Spain), but a rarety on this pilgrimmage. Before dinner, they welcomed and honored us by a ceremonial washing of the feet.

To me, these smaller towns have a nicer flavor of Italy than the bigger attractions of Sienna and Lucca. They are still amazing in heritage andarchitecture, but not overrun by loads of tourists and tourist type shops. I highly reccomend these when you travel to Tuscana. I was also given a new way, which now makes it possible to finish the trip by foot.


DAY 42: Sunday June 29: Radicafani to Aquapendente (25KM - 16 miles):
Today I walked out of Tuscana. Being as the day started on top of the mountain, I made incredible time coming down the first 11km - 7 miles) in just under 2 hours. AMAZING views as I awoke above the clouds and then walked down into them. I love many of the pictures and views here, and I passed tens of thousands of spider webs.

 In one field, it seemed every plant was covered with them, the hedges were lined with them like a strip of Miami condos, it was so cool and I took a bucnh of pics - not sure they capture the abundance and beauty. Interesting every spider was in the exact center of his web - perhaps Italian spiders often have "siesta".

The mddle was all in vallies and quick, with the end being another climb, but not as high or as far. I arrived before noon, but since it was Sunday and a holiday (St Peter and St Pauls anniversary - of what I am not sure), not much was open (ie library for internet), so I walked about the town and read. I am reading Dicken's Great Expenctations - it is easier to find classic literaturein English here, probably for college students. But it inspires me to read more classics too. I was early to the Ostello and a bit dehydrated from going so fast and not taking good eating-drinking breaks: Upon arrival it is necessary to call the Ostello, but as I have no phone, I had to ask someone walking by. It is always interesting when I stop people to ask for directions and in this case to ask them to call for me. When I first say "Escusa mia", it is interesting to note their expressions. I feel sure this couple felt sure I was going to ask for money, so I quickly in Italian explain I am a pilgrim and want to sleep here, but it is necessary to call, but as a pilgrim I have no phone. Could you call for me (Escusa mia. Io sono peregrino e vorrei una camera questa note aqui. Besonya chiamere, mas no telephonera. Puo auotare mia?). They did help and were very kind. SInce I was early and the Ostello was not ready, they put me in a single room, which was quite nice with a double bed.

Aquapendente is another incredible town, with a wonderful flavor of history and tradition. Yet slow enough and out of the way to enjoy it more. The towns best restaurant has offered pilgrims a special meal and for $20 I received a four course meal (antipast - pasta - prima plato - dolce; appetizer sampler - pasta - main dish - dessert), wine and water. This would easily have cost $70 - $100, without the discount and was WONDERFUL and the people again so kind. Another great day!

DAY 43: Monday June 30: Aquapendente to Belsano (22km - 13 miles):
An easier day - there you have it a new phrase, as it was downhill to start and then instead of following the normal path, I chose to walk alongside a large lake (Lago Belsano), which was lovely and had bars and cafes right on the water - Bellisimo! Belsano is another grate old city and thankfully NOT on top of a hill.  As tomorrow is a long day for me, I look forward to a lasst meal with new friend Georgio and Teresa.