Camino Primitivo Day 4/22 - Campiello to Berducedo - 27k/ 17m

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This is supposed to be one of the biggest challenges and goes to the highest point on this camino. It goes over the mountain and was the original pilgrim route. It goes so high that in winter an alternative route was used. So it is suggested that if the weather is bad, you go down into the valley, then back up. Both climb about the same amount of meters high (1000), but the mountain route covers these over about 5 miles, whereas the valley route does this in under 2, so very steep. In looking at both routes, it seems to me the mountain was easier, however there are no towns, no water, no places to stop for food, sleep, etc., whereas the valley has many options

So when the weather forecast was for rain, most folks decided to take the valley route, whereas a few pilgrims, myself included decided to go up. The morning was foggy, with sporadic light rain for first couple hours, and I had climbed about 600m, when it started to rain heavy and constant. I got to the steepest part, going up another 300 meters in just over a kilometer, on loose rocks and gravel. It was hard and challenging, and I drank all my water. So I decided despite the heavy rain and no shelter, I needed to stop and refill my water from the extra water (I had some food too). I found a grove of trees with a down trunk and set up a lil respite there in the pouring rain.

After a 15 minute break and refuel, I continued on. It was dreary, but normally I like walking in the rain, but this was really challenging. I knew I was more than halfway done, but it was still tough, though I knew I could do it. I started meditating, maybe praying, when I thought of the Bible passage, that says that if you have the fait of a mustard seed, etc. I was thinking and praying, I got that and more. And I continued on another 10 minutes to arrive at the highest point, which had a marker with many things left by pilgrims, photos, wishes, stones, etc. And as I arrived there the rain stopped.

I don't know if this is an answered prayer, or coincidence. But I do believe it speaks to the idea that we are not just victims of circumstances. That our actions, our feelings, our wishes, our prayers, pour attitudes contribute something to the world and what happens, For me, I am happy to receive a lil miracle.

I continued on for another ten minutes and the sun began to appear. Over the next 30-40 minutes the sun came out sporadically and warmed me a bit, and opened up the view for much of the lovely scenery. But this was not to last. As I was descending to where the two paths meet on a road, the wind picked up and the rain came back on full force. I saw a little building off to the left, and made a dash for it, and it was a refugio, a place to get out of the storm. There was much graffiti inside as I was not the first pilgrim there.

Ten minutes passed and another pilgrim arrived - and believe it or not, he was from San Angelo TX. How strange. Soon a south Korean and an Italian also arrived. I waited 30 minutes and when it seemed to lighten up, I continued on. I had about 9 miles to go. It did not lighten, it rained constant and hard for the next nine miles of climbs and descents. It was a hard day and at one point near the end, I had to wade through a six inch deep puddle about 10 feet long. My shoes and feet drenched for the last mile.

I had a strong pace for thoe last half, pushing forward hard to get to a warm dry spot and a coffee or drink. Though a hard day - maybe my hardest ever, it also was an accomplishment. One I shared with other pilgrims over dinner.

Buen Camino!

Camino Primotivo - Day 3/21 - Bodenayo to Campiello - 25k/ 15 miles

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What was supposed to be a rest/walking day per my guide turned into an exhausting mud slog. While the distance is not small, the hills were not quite as large as the day before or as what is coming next. But due to all the rain, the first half was slow and difficult. Both trying to walk around deep puddles and then sloshing thru mud, like walking in sand. The second half, both more lovely, but some intensive hills, So a rest day, became a day like any other, with a big day coming tomorrow.

During the second half, while tired and a bit annoyed at all the mud and not being a rest day, I came upon a pilgrim who was playing music and it was Gregorian Chants. It was quite lovely and lifted my spirits and energy.

The alburgues have been quite nice, both in their facilities and hospitality and also in the growing camaraderie with other pilgrims from all over.

Buen Camino!

Camino Primitivo - Day 2(20) - San Juan to Bodenaya - 25k - 15 miles

Last night was good fun. Met many pilgrims and hung out through the afternoon and evening drinking beer and sharing jokes and stories.

Since rain was forecast later in day, I wanted to leave early again and planned to leave at 6:00am. The sun rises over mountains about 7:00, with it getting more light about 6:30. BUt someone in the alburgue turned on the lights at 3:30am and woke me up. I was very annoyed and had many bad pilgrim thoughts, even making up stories about who did it and why. In the morning a Swedish lady shared that the switch was by her bed and she thinks she kicked it on. And all those stories vanished and I realized how unimportant it is.

It took me a long time to go back to sleep, and when I did, I slept so soundly that I did not even wake up til after 6:30, and everyone was already up and out of the room and I heard nothing. I became a bit frantic, and tried to rush through packing, and kept losing and finding important things - like my earplugs!!

I was out before 7:00 and it was lovely and  and again I got to watch the sun come up. It was a lovely and challenging day with big hills from the start. Later in the morning it began to rain, but not much.

Camino Primitivo - Day 1 (19) - Ovideo to San Juan de Villapenada

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Yesterday was spent in taking a leap forward via train from Llanes to Ovideo, the first city on the Primitive Camino. It was raining quite a lot in Llanes all morning, but the train seemed to brighten as we went on. Oviedo was lovely and I spent the afternoon scouting about, doing a bit of laundry, sampling the local sidre. (alcoholic cider) and the unique way of serving, by pouring from a great distance to aerate the cider. The waiters pour you one drink (taste) at a time; and they keep wandering around to give you your next drink. Had a lovely dinner of large grilled shrinp and pulpo (Octopus).

The weather forecast for today was initially rain later in the day; but it rained constantly overnight; and as I awoke in the night, I began to think that I would stay another day in Oviedo instead of leaving earlier than usual as I had planned. But when I woke up at 5:30, the rain had stopped, and the forecast, still had low percentage chance for rain during the morning; and increasing after 1:00, so I decided to set out early.

Leaving the hotel at 6:00, it was still dark and mostly deserted. Normally I hate walking out of cities; but walking so early and it only took a few kilometers to get out of the city. I was walking into the surrounding hills as it got lighter and the sun began to rise. It was a lovely cool morning (in the 50’s) and the countryside/ views were awesome.

The walk today was split between roads and paths, but lovely for most. A couple hours later I arrived in the first small town that had a bar/ café listed as being there. But as I rounded the corner, I could see it was closed as all the shutters were locked down. As I paused in front of the bar and was googling café/ bar near me” the shutters began to rise, as the bar was opening. QUELLE PROVIDENCE!

A nice coffee, croissant and orange juice and I was ready to tackle the rest of this long, mildly challenging day. The difficulty was rated 3 out of 5. And that seems about right. There were frequent climbs and descents, but not too steep or if so, only for a short while.

My guide indicated the alburgue I was staying in was out of the way; and if I wanted to eat dinner, I needed to pick up some food in the last town before the alburgue. There was a LIDL there, and I got a nice packages Caesar chicken salad, some beers, some bread and was off.

Another 4k, and I was nestled in the best appointed alburgue I have seen. There is a lot of food/ drinks/ wine/ beer/ candy in fridge and in a vending machine here, in case pilgrims arrive empty handed. The entire set up is donation, and quite lovely view over the city…with the exception of the less than hot shower, but not a biggie.

It only began raining during the last mile or so; and about 20 minutes after I took the rain cover off my mochila! LOL. I actually felt really good and strong today, and considered going further, but wasn’t sure if the next town had an alburgue, and didn’t want to have to keep going beyond that; and this place, as I said is lovely.

Tomorrow is a little more difficult day; but 4k/ 2 miles shorter.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 17 - Colombres to Llanes - 26k/ 16 miles

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Dont forget you can slow this down, so not so dizzying, by clicking on the GEAR icon (settings) when in Youtube

I had the best Mexican meal last night in the lovely little restaurant in Colombres. It was the best mole, I have ever had and such a lovely little place.

Today was my last day on the Camino Del Norte - tomorrow, I will leap ahead a couple of days to Oviedo, where the Camino Primitive begins.

Today was a hard and lovely day, and a bit weird too, but again in a lovely way. I think the Camino Del Norte wanted to kick my butt, physically and emotionally - making sure I got what I came for before I left.

I had an early start, as the alburgue didnt serve breakfast until 8, and I wake normally about 6. I stayed in bed for an hour, then headed out shortly after 7:00. Walking without my morning coffee, is not my choice, but I was able to secure one just a mile or so away.

The morning's walk was lovely and tough, some hills, and the coastline, which was very rocky and uneven, made it a slow go and a challenging one, but the views were spectacular, even with the non-stop misting rain.  I walked along cliffs. I walked through a herd of cows. I climbed several fences and even climbed over a natural stone bridge, carved out by the sea. It was a bit scary, expecially as the waves hitting the cliff walls made a big and resonant boom, sounding like thunder. It was so cool!

The morning was exhausting, I am thinking because of the constant rocky up and downs along the coast, and the uneven footing making concentration important. The non-stop misting rain didnt help either.

A little while later a veer off into town, for a second coffee and a wee bit of breakfast - juice and a croissant with some other pilgrim friends. Then back on the path which went off road again, but it was a dirt path with climbs and descents, and continuing rain. I am not sure why, but I was more tired today while walking, perhaps the first cliff part without any food took its toll. Did not really bonk, but maybe a mini one. Nothing bad or serious and I still made all climbs without problem, just felt sluggish.

It is amusing what happens to me when I walk and my mind wanders...or maybe it gets lost - LOL. Often times, I will have conversations with parts of me, physical (feet, knees, muscles, colon, etc.) or mental (attitude, heart, etc.). Sometimes I'm encouraging (Doing a great job knees!); sometimes I'm a tough coach (Right foot quit whining, I know you're tired and that aint helping!). The conversation with the colon one day was hysterical (Don't be an asshole; you need to keep up your end; etc.). I dont think these are out loud, but sometimes after walking alone a bit; Im not really sure.

Today's version took a weird twist as I began singing out loud, and just making up random lyrics about life and love and adventure and mistakes, and triumphs. It was like my own off broadway musical. It was wonderful to me; but I doubt anyone else. And I wish I had a recording - which would NEVER get shared - LOL!

Later another stop and still sluggish with 4 miles to go. I knew there were a couple miore climbs; so I decided to listen to music for the first time since walking - normally am nervous about phone battery, but I needed the charge and encouragement. So with the help of the Sugar Hill Gang, Cher and a few others was kicked into gear and was moving on. I actually had to slow myself down as I was jamming and was worried I was going to overstress my knees and tendons. LOL.

The rain kept getting harder and I was cold and drenched through and still tired, but lifted by the music when a Art Garfunkel song, Bright Eyes, came on, and I lost it. This song was feautred in the animated film version of my all-time favorite book, "Watership Down".I It is a song about death and love and I walked the last mile and a half in tears with thoughts of dad. I took this pic of his chair before I left; and it being empty fueled my sadness.

I arrived at a great hotel in Llanes, Hotel Don Paco; an amazing 3-star hotel. Similar hotels in the US would likely be several hundred dollars for a room; but on a Sunday night in Spain, I had booked a small single room for $50;. Dripping wet, I longed for a bath, and asked the reception if I could pay for an upgrade to a bigger room with a bath. And without hesitation, she moved me to the top floor,  without an increase. in cost. A very hot bubble bath soon ensued, and I am nestled in for a nap before a little exploration and dinner.

A lovely end to this part of the walk; and I look forward to see whats coming.

Buen Camino

Camino Del Norte - Day 16 - Comillas to Columbres - 29K/ 18 miles

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Today was a lovely, perfect day. Long distance, challenging hills and finally good scenery - ocean and countryside.

The forecast was for rain, but it held off the entire walk and the sun shone thru for the second hal, heating up the climbs, even though only in the 60s.

Was a lovely morning walk out of the small town, and many motorcycle cops passed me and a few ambulances and I thought it was some dignitary ill. But later while on a small road near a golf course, a cop stopped and started yelling at me. I thought I had taken the wrong turn, but he was telling me to move to the other side of the road. I did so and about a minute later 200 cyclists in a pack zoomed by me, There was a 10,000 rider race today. It took me by shock and most of the early packs of racers were by before I thought to get my camera out.

I took a video, but with the internet being poor, this will take some time as will uploading all pics. Likely tomorrow. Hopefully the internet is better tomorrow. See if you can find the lady walking her parrot - you it is in there!

The rest of the day was challenging climbs thru countryside, and

how nice to end a day with the last mile being all up...NOT,

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 15 - Santillana del Mar to Comillas - 0K

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PILGRIM DAY OFF:
I woke to find I had used all the data in my prepaid phone in just 2 weeks here, Was surprised, but have been using a camino mapping app, which if I keep it on is constantly sending and receiving gps data. Also been uploading pics and other crap more than usual, so understand. And the cost is quite cheap. Most Americans I know who come here, use their home phone and pay a daily surcharge - usually more than $10/ day. It is quite easy to buy an "UNLOCKED" phone in the USA  and purchase a sim card/ 30 days access for about $20 total.  I bought a MOTO X smart phone on Amazon and added another $15 today, so still a very cheap option.

The dilemma this morning was what to do without a phone - which means no wifi/ internet access on the road; so none of my apps would work. WTF - NO GOOGLE!?!?!  I have really come to rely on this when getting into towns to find a place to eat, sleep, shop etc.

Funny how only 4 years ago I walked for two months across France, Switzerland and Italy without one piece of technology, Theres something to be said for this. However on this walk, unlike any other I have taken, there are so many alternative paths, and sometimes you will come to a fork and theres an arrow pointing in both directions...again another WTF!

Anyway, a nice challenge to sort out what to do. Since I have become my own pilgrim, and certainly not a PP (Pilgrim Purist) who must walk every single step; I chose to find my way to the nearest ORANGE Phone shop, wasn't far away and a local bus was coming at 9:45 in the morning - allowing me an extra bit of chill time. Normally on the road between 7:30 and 8.

But local transport can be tricky - and this bus wasn't marked and being in a tourist town, there were tons of busses coming and going. Lucky for me Im a pilgrim and the Spanish are exceptionally kind and helpful to us. Often cars will honk and give a thumbs up as they pass. So a half hour ride, a quick stop at the tourist office to find a map on paper and directions to nearest ORANGE shop and all handled.

Since the bus back wasn't for three hours, I opted for the luxury of a cab ride to todays walking destination, Comillas, and since I was going luxury, I thought Id check out hotels on Booking.com while I was enjoying a lovely café con leche and croissant in the city square; and found a 3-star gem for $50. SOLD

So the afternoon, spent napping, reading, a lil jaunt around the city, an early dinner...all relaxing and good prep for a 29k day tomorrow. Sadly afternoon showers in the forecast. However I will take 60 and rainy over 100+ temps that are in Dallas right now. Feeling for my peeps.

Interesting Camino Bathroom fact for me anyway - was surprised how much I peed today (LOL); when I walk, I think my body uses every bit of fluid I intake. I think I peed more in one go today, than I did all last week, In fact, I was starting to get bored and antsy, it was taking so long - LOL!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 14 - Santa Cruz de Bezane to Santillana del Mar - 24.4k

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Last night another wonderful family style dinner in a lovely Albergue with a lovely host - which makes all the difference. The food was good and then some insight into the trail for today. Two main points were that the "original" trail is long - up to 40k and that there is a river that needs to be crossed and the nearest bridge is for trains.

The train bridge is forbidden/ prohibited to cross; but how they explained this was amusing. "Walking on the bridge is forbidden, but you can do it if you like. " LOL This actually to me is a very open and mature philosophy. The idea being, we have warned you not to; and if you choose to do it, know you are responsible. But there is a train station on each side of the bridge so you can get on, ride for 2 minutes and then get off. This description was also amusing. "If you get on, and no man comes the ride is free. If he comes you pay him 1.65. This is the system."


The day began with a nice breakfast - light as usual, but I had coffee, so this makes me happy. It was raining as I left the Albergue and continued non-stop thru the morning.  I chose to take the train and after walking about an hour arrived at the train station at the same exact moment as the train, but was on the wrong side and could not cross, while the train was there, so I had to wait 40 minutes. Not a big deal, and I did meet some pilgrims from prior days as they got off the train.

The first part of the walk after train was countryside, but overlooking a large highway. From there it go worse as it was raining and we went thru large industrial area. At the end of the walk, it became a little more rural, which was nice.

We ended in Santillana del Mer - an old medieval village that is truly lovely, but feels more EPCOT/ Disney than Europe, as it is filled with tourist shops and restaurants.  I went into the Museum of Torture and the Spanish Inquisition - Which of course nobody expected (ba dum bum)! And was disappointed as I was really more interested in the Inquisition and history, and all that was there was descriptions and exhibits of torture devices.

I am hoping for a nice dinner and an early night in the Convent Alburgue - where there are only two beds per room, and right now I have a single. Fingers crossed it stays this way!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 13: Guemes to Santa Cruz De Bezana – 24km

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Last night the alburgue in Guemes shared with us its history. It was the birth place of 80 year old former priest, Padre Ernesto. An unconventional man of the people. In his first community assignment, he was high in the mountains in a mining community. As such, he not only was their priest, but also worked in the mines. His life was one of service, travel and service. The alburgue which operates totally in donations, funds not only this beautiful place, but also two missions – one a mission for local youth and a mission for the poor people of the southern hemisphere. There also is an outreach to the local prison, whose wall I walked by today.

Today was another overcast day with a wonderful 8km walk. First trhu countryside, and then along cliffs beside the ocean followed by a boat ride to a large city, Santander. I almost got off the boat at the wrong stop - which would have added another 10 miles to today - YIKES!

Most stayed in the city, I suppose wanting to explore, but I am not big on cities along the walk, and also wanted to get more miles under my belt today, both for my schedule and also to keep training for when I split onto the Primitive path.

The first couple kilometers in the city were nice, but to get out of a large city is always difficult, and usually boring and long. Today was no different. From shopping district, to industrial zone to train tracks, the second half was nothing to write about until something weird happened.

I was walking beside a house, and a large friendly German Shephard stuck his head thru the fence. I greeted him and he walked away, but as I was walking along the street, he approached me again and dropped a stone for me. Now this may not sound weird, but pilgrims usually carry stones with them, which they leave at Santiago or somewhere along the way. I had planned to do this, and have done it before, but did not pick any up. Since this is so symbolic and so weird, I felt I need to take his stone to Santiago. WEIRD – EH? Maybe he is a reincarnated pilgrim????

Another long day under my belt with an interesting day tomorrow, I hope.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 12 - Laredo to Guemes - 30K

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Today was the Disneyland of walks.

An early rise, and surprisingly the hotel had breakfast open early, so got a coffee, juice and some toast before leaving, without going out of my way.

Then I had a lovely 4k walk along the "boardwalk" of Laredo with a glorious shining sun. I had a look at some nice prospective oceanfront condos - just need some investor help - ANY TAKERS???

Normally a sunny day is something I usually am a little fearful of during walking (HEAT), but today the weather was in DISNEY-SYNC! Lovely and sunny along the beach with wonderful cool breeze; then later a wee bit overcast, cool and breezy. This really helped on this longest day yet.

Seems I'm becoming a record breaker.

After the boardwalk, there was a pilgrim ferry across a narrow strait to a town on the other side; a fun way to make up some miles and avoid walking AROUND!!! The ferry lighted 10 minutes later in another lovely town and I thought about having second breakfast, but as I'm a pilgrim and not a hobbit, I opted to keep moving.

A brief walk thru town, then up to the beach for an amazing (and a wee bit scary) climb along a mountain-goat path on a beautiful and high cliff. It was exhilarating and steep, a bit slippery, and the couple of downs on the way up, were nerve-racking. The views were lovely, and the descent on the other-side tough on body (feet, ankles, and knees) and focus.

But the landing was a lovely sandy beach, that I walked along for 2k - amazing and lovely. I stopped for a rest here and realized that there was a primo alburgue (pilgrim hotel) a little further (5miles) than I had planned to walk, but I decided to do it anyway.

The rest of the day was long, tough and a beautiful walk thru the countryside. I had strong and consistent energy, but a lot was along roads, so my feet and legs were vibrating and aching most of afternoon. It often looked like rain; and was a little nervous at one point, but I turned the corner saw MISS KITTY hanging on a house, and my friend Kerri assures me that when I see this all is well, so continued on!

A lovely bar just a mile before end, tempted me to stop for a "radler", a german concoction of beer and sprite or orange soda, that is a lovely refreshing cocktail in summer, It was a wise choice, as I had not breaked for a couple hours, and my feet were about to revolt. Having Salomon

Unfortunately, there was a steep climb at the end, but it wasn't long, and I was in no danger of bonking. The alburgue here (pilgrim hotel) is reputed to be the RITZ-CARLTON of Alburgues. I judge it is probably run by pilgrims for pilgrims; so it is set up to serve our needs; and there is no fee; only an ask to make a donation before you leave - according to what you can afford, and what your heart dictates. Did I mention this includes dinner too.

What a great ending to an awesome day!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 11 - Castro-Urdiales to Laredo - 28k

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With ten days under my belt, I have been feeling good the last few days walking and wanted to see how far I could push the mileage, especially as the Primitive path is coming up soon and has longer, harder days.

Today was again a great walking day with temperatures in the 60's and overcast. It has been rainy the last few afternoons/ nights, so the off-road tracks were pretty muddy and I stayed on the road for a couple shortcuts, but still racked up my longest day yet. I felt tired, but good at the end and no bonking!

There was a nice Eucalyptus forest, that I imagine on hot days is a way cool experience. I still find the transitions along the coast strange. Yesterday there was a huge factory on a gorgeous ocean-front cliff. Today I walked through large cities on the ocean, farmland, and untouched nature. The sad part of today was the major highway that paralleled closely, so even when the views were awesome, the sound pollution was horrible.

Later ended up in ocean-front city of Laredo, where one of the coolest things was the patterned etched into the sidewalks that gave the impression that they were not flat; so cool, unless drunk, I guess.

I also had a wee bit of bad luck as my phone died about 3 blocks from my hotel, and I was not really sure of the address or name - thank goodness for a friend that gave me a recharger/ flashlight for Christmas which was on the trip!

BUen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 10 - Pobena to CastroUrdiales - 16km

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Had a great pilgrim dinner again last night surrounded by many pilgrims from all over - France, Germany, Spain, Argentina, Peru - too many places to count.

Today, I am back in the saddle so to speak. After a little pilgrim holiday to find Dragonstone; followed by a day of public transport to get back on the Camino (Bus >> Metro >> Bus), I am walking again,.

Along the way, several ladies tried to tell me to turn back when I was nearing a tunnel as it was closed; but while I was trying to understand what they were saying, five teenage boys jogged by and into the tunnel, and did not return. So I chose to go around the PROHIBITED FENCE - like the boys and continue on. It was a cool adventure that kept me on edge - of the cliff literally!

Close to the end, there was lovely Bagpipe and drum music. I took a video with my phone - not sure if the sound will come thru!

I feel stronger, and though today was mixed with lovely ocean front path and a few climbs; it is not too far, so I end early at at my hotel - a Hotel and Spa. There is a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and sauna all inside; and I have a massage scheduled for 4:00.

I am not sure if I am a really smart pilgrim, or maybe a BAD ONE!

I have decided to return to Albergues tomorrow to meet more pilgrims, though I have met quite a few today.

Buen Camino..

DAY 8: Pilgrim Holiday ?? - Bakio/ San Juan de Gastelugotxe - Dragonstone - 15k

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What does a pilgrim do on his rest day?
He walks from sea level 4 miles over a large hill and 4 miles back - all to see DRAGONSTONE!


The TV Version

Real Life - San Juan de Gastelugotxe

This morning began with often one of the big challenges abroad - using public transportation. It did not seem too difficult, the bus station (??) was a short 15 minute walk, I knew the bus to get on (3518), I knew the departure time (10:30) but when I arrived at Plaza Mayua, I found a big circle and different buses landed and departed at different places. There were actually electronic signs, but when in new situation - all is hard to find. So I GOOGLEd it - and low and behold, google walked me to the right stop, I almost angered a line of people there as I did not realize they were queued up for the bus and went to the front to board bus. Driver pointed to line and I got the idea. 2 Euros and a half hour later I am in Bakio, my days destination of sorts.

I had emailed with hotel day before about arriving a little before the noon check-in and all seemed good. I called her when I was here at 11:15; but no answer. Several calls and texts later still nothing after 2 hours; so I asked bar next store if they would watch my backpack, packed a light sack and went off to find Dragon Stone. This site used is actually an island off the North of Spain with a church (not castle) on top. It was a 4 mile walk there and back; 2 miles uphill to get above Dragonstone and then down 2 miles to it.

With a light pack and a week of heavy pilgrimming, it was an easy day. And a highlight was that I was not winded on any of the climbs. OK I had only a light day pack and an overcast; cool day. But I still loved walking past heavily winded tourists, by keeping a steady pace. See I am getting my pilgrim feet!

Don't you see the resemblance -
YOU KNOW NOTHING JON SNOW!

Walking along the beach of this town - am surprised that there seems so little life here. It is a beach town, with loads of condos near the shore, but there are few shops, few restaurants and hardly any people. Its a Friday afternoon in May. And even many of the condos look like relics from Post War Eastern Europe reconstructions. Beach front is so primo in the USA, it is hard to get my head around this. But I guess thats somewhat always the case with understanding other cultures; we first have to turn off our own lense. BUT STILL WEIRD TO ME,

Back to the hotel, a quick call, some lovely tapas and beer at bar next door and I am stowed away for the night, Tomorrow is another transit day to make it back en route, and then I begin my regular march again, now a day behind. But no matter, I catch a ride on a dragon (or bus) and will be in Santiago by June 17!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 7 - Larrabetzu to Bilbao - 15km

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NO VIDEO - boring walk along streets in industrial area until end, so decided not to film

Last night was great evening in B&B. House lady was great - did my laundry, excellent cook. I am eating so much.

Had great dinner with a Canadian lady hiking alone for a week from Vancouver, and a guy from London, about to embark on a week long motorcycle tour with buds thru France and back to the UK. Way too much wine and a late night, made for a slow and late start today, but this was the day for it!

Short walking day; into Bilboa and hotel early.  Awesome hotel with penthouse river view room and close by Guggenheim Museum,

Visited Guggenheim - some really wild and weird Chinese stuff going on. (no pics allowed.)

Off tomorrow for Game of Thrones sight-seeing walk to Dragonstone.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 6: Guernika to Larrabetzu - 17k

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TODAYS VIDEO

Today was first shorter day and a wee bit easier; mainly as I decided not to do a full 31.5k into Billboa. Lovely overcast walking with only a couple big hills. Even so, I realized my bonking is result of not only food, but also my pace.

In Dallas I walk regularly at least 5 miles or more, but it is very flat and all on pavement, sidewalks or smooth trails. My pace in Dallas is about 4 miles/ hour (6.4 km/ hour). With hills, I was still averaging about 4km/hr; but on longer days this means Im burning a lot of energy up front; so today OPA ARRIVED! I strolled through the day. I strolled up hills, I strolled down hills; and my breathing though stretched uphill was much less pronounced and my energy remained good.


Arriving about 1:00 in Larrabetzu, I opted for a pilgrim menu lunch for 12 Euros - Beer (or wine), Bread, Lovely mixed salad with asparagus, olives and fresh local tuna, Beef steak, fries and peppers, followed by dessert and expresso. The dining can be one of the highlights of pilgrimages; of travel in general.

I have been worried about the albergues being full; so yesterday I booked a room at a lovely Casa Rural (like a country B&B), but I was in perfect time for the Albergue in Larrabetzu.  After walking with a German couple and meeting others wish I had save my $65Euros and trusted "THE WAY." The alburgue was free - meaning there is no cost, but what you wish to donate,

Of course expecting a really nice dinner, room is lovely and the house lady did my laundry, which severely needed it!

Tomorrow another short day, followed by a day or two of holiday.

Camino Del Norte - Day Five: Markina Xemein to Gernika - 26k

TODAYS PICS

NO VIDEO - I accidentally Shut off when clipping to harness.

So today is another long day, with some challenging hills including one at the end - making it more so.

The dinner and pilgrims in Albergue were lovely and fun, with folks from France, Spain, Germany, Florida and Chicago. I filled my gut, though should have had more spaghetti - it was so good with cayenne on it! Followed by yummy fish. The internet was not existent, it would have been quicker to mail a letter! And breakfast this morning was just toast, juice and coffee.

Last night, I must have had the best ear plugs, cause I heard nothing. But an interesting thing did happen. I woke up about four, and could not go back to sleep. In my normal life, I turn the tv on in sleep mode, and this shuts off my brain. But here in shared quarters - this was not a possibility, so had this interesting experience of trying to relax and focus my mind. The only thing I can say is  - I LOST MY MIND. Curious how hard it was to come back to center and how rambling it is. I really think part of this is being "connected" all the time to phone, tv, work, etc. And not really knowing or practicing disconnecting and being present. I like the definition of medititation as dying on the pillow every day. That it is an almost death-like struggle to focus in the moment.

It was a really lovely walk - strenuous throughout the day with multiple climbs. Several cafes along the way, one where I had a light lunch - evidently too light; and plenty of water. But 26km is still 26km; and when you add all the hills, its an energy beater; so I learned today that I BONKED - I ran out of gas on the last hill.

And when you bonk, recovery aint so easy. So though I was close to end, I was dragging; and my room on the third floor, felt like Everest. So still working on getting in the pilgrim groove. With a couple light days and a break on Friday, I think my body will get some recovery time and I might need to do some schedule planning.

A fun highlight today was the pilgrim rest stop - a huge covered area outside an alburgue provided shade and great camaraderie. A fun bit was when a young Spanish guy began singing love for sale; guess there are all kinds of ways to finance ones travels.

Camino Del Norte - Day 4: Deba to Markina-Xemein – 25km (May 21)

TODAYS PICS - Yeah they are here finally!

TODAYS VIDEO

Well today was NOT yesterday. Still much climb and descents; but not as many and really only two large one; both coming in first half of another long day. Also I am getting my “sailor-legs”  so to speak.

I bought lunch to carry, walked at a more agreeable pace, and took longer and more frequent breaks – so even though easier, it took me longer – about 8 hours. There was a small incline 200 meters – which really aint that small at the end of the day. Again the power of the mind is incredible; near the end of the day with 5k to go, I thought I heard thunder and double timed it to town.  Arriba, Arriba Undele!

Speaking of food; I sort of feel like one of those French geese that they force-feed (overfeed) to expand their liver for fois grae. Last night at dinner, I was served two large chicken breasts, potatoes and salad; and though I was full after one; I ate it all. I know my body is using tremendous amounts of energy and needs fuels. Surprisingly I awoke hungry.  This morning at breakfast which I don’t usually eat, I was served a croissant, ham, cheese, and toast. Again I shoved it uncomfortably down.

So it seems each day brings a new metaphor. Lovely mostly inland day with nice scenery and hills that really were not nearly as steep/ bad as the ones yesterday.

I am also staying in my first Albergue – dormitory style arrangements for pilgrims. This is one of the better ones. 15 Euros (some are less or on donation basis), 9 euros for dinner and 3 for breakfast. You cant beat that. The man who showed me in also gave me the “BEST BED” as I am an American from Texas. Evidently there are many Basque people in Texas. (Eat your heart out Craig Towers – no such perks for Kiwis!)

Tomorrow is a longer day, but supposedly the hills are gentle and the scenery aplenty.

Buen Camino!