Camino Primitivo Day 4/22 - Campiello to Berducedo - 27k/ 17m

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This is supposed to be one of the biggest challenges and goes to the highest point on this camino. It goes over the mountain and was the original pilgrim route. It goes so high that in winter an alternative route was used. So it is suggested that if the weather is bad, you go down into the valley, then back up. Both climb about the same amount of meters high (1000), but the mountain route covers these over about 5 miles, whereas the valley route does this in under 2, so very steep. In looking at both routes, it seems to me the mountain was easier, however there are no towns, no water, no places to stop for food, sleep, etc., whereas the valley has many options

So when the weather forecast was for rain, most folks decided to take the valley route, whereas a few pilgrims, myself included decided to go up. The morning was foggy, with sporadic light rain for first couple hours, and I had climbed about 600m, when it started to rain heavy and constant. I got to the steepest part, going up another 300 meters in just over a kilometer, on loose rocks and gravel. It was hard and challenging, and I drank all my water. So I decided despite the heavy rain and no shelter, I needed to stop and refill my water from the extra water (I had some food too). I found a grove of trees with a down trunk and set up a lil respite there in the pouring rain.

After a 15 minute break and refuel, I continued on. It was dreary, but normally I like walking in the rain, but this was really challenging. I knew I was more than halfway done, but it was still tough, though I knew I could do it. I started meditating, maybe praying, when I thought of the Bible passage, that says that if you have the fait of a mustard seed, etc. I was thinking and praying, I got that and more. And I continued on another 10 minutes to arrive at the highest point, which had a marker with many things left by pilgrims, photos, wishes, stones, etc. And as I arrived there the rain stopped.

I don't know if this is an answered prayer, or coincidence. But I do believe it speaks to the idea that we are not just victims of circumstances. That our actions, our feelings, our wishes, our prayers, pour attitudes contribute something to the world and what happens, For me, I am happy to receive a lil miracle.

I continued on for another ten minutes and the sun began to appear. Over the next 30-40 minutes the sun came out sporadically and warmed me a bit, and opened up the view for much of the lovely scenery. But this was not to last. As I was descending to where the two paths meet on a road, the wind picked up and the rain came back on full force. I saw a little building off to the left, and made a dash for it, and it was a refugio, a place to get out of the storm. There was much graffiti inside as I was not the first pilgrim there.

Ten minutes passed and another pilgrim arrived - and believe it or not, he was from San Angelo TX. How strange. Soon a south Korean and an Italian also arrived. I waited 30 minutes and when it seemed to lighten up, I continued on. I had about 9 miles to go. It did not lighten, it rained constant and hard for the next nine miles of climbs and descents. It was a hard day and at one point near the end, I had to wade through a six inch deep puddle about 10 feet long. My shoes and feet drenched for the last mile.

I had a strong pace for thoe last half, pushing forward hard to get to a warm dry spot and a coffee or drink. Though a hard day - maybe my hardest ever, it also was an accomplishment. One I shared with other pilgrims over dinner.

Buen Camino!

Camino Primotivo - Day 3/21 - Bodenayo to Campiello - 25k/ 15 miles

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What was supposed to be a rest/walking day per my guide turned into an exhausting mud slog. While the distance is not small, the hills were not quite as large as the day before or as what is coming next. But due to all the rain, the first half was slow and difficult. Both trying to walk around deep puddles and then sloshing thru mud, like walking in sand. The second half, both more lovely, but some intensive hills, So a rest day, became a day like any other, with a big day coming tomorrow.

During the second half, while tired and a bit annoyed at all the mud and not being a rest day, I came upon a pilgrim who was playing music and it was Gregorian Chants. It was quite lovely and lifted my spirits and energy.

The alburgues have been quite nice, both in their facilities and hospitality and also in the growing camaraderie with other pilgrims from all over.

Buen Camino!

Camino Primitivo - Day 2(20) - San Juan to Bodenaya - 25k - 15 miles

Last night was good fun. Met many pilgrims and hung out through the afternoon and evening drinking beer and sharing jokes and stories.

Since rain was forecast later in day, I wanted to leave early again and planned to leave at 6:00am. The sun rises over mountains about 7:00, with it getting more light about 6:30. BUt someone in the alburgue turned on the lights at 3:30am and woke me up. I was very annoyed and had many bad pilgrim thoughts, even making up stories about who did it and why. In the morning a Swedish lady shared that the switch was by her bed and she thinks she kicked it on. And all those stories vanished and I realized how unimportant it is.

It took me a long time to go back to sleep, and when I did, I slept so soundly that I did not even wake up til after 6:30, and everyone was already up and out of the room and I heard nothing. I became a bit frantic, and tried to rush through packing, and kept losing and finding important things - like my earplugs!!

I was out before 7:00 and it was lovely and  and again I got to watch the sun come up. It was a lovely and challenging day with big hills from the start. Later in the morning it began to rain, but not much.

Camino Primitivo - Day 1 (19) - Ovideo to San Juan de Villapenada

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Yesterday was spent in taking a leap forward via train from Llanes to Ovideo, the first city on the Primitive Camino. It was raining quite a lot in Llanes all morning, but the train seemed to brighten as we went on. Oviedo was lovely and I spent the afternoon scouting about, doing a bit of laundry, sampling the local sidre. (alcoholic cider) and the unique way of serving, by pouring from a great distance to aerate the cider. The waiters pour you one drink (taste) at a time; and they keep wandering around to give you your next drink. Had a lovely dinner of large grilled shrinp and pulpo (Octopus).

The weather forecast for today was initially rain later in the day; but it rained constantly overnight; and as I awoke in the night, I began to think that I would stay another day in Oviedo instead of leaving earlier than usual as I had planned. But when I woke up at 5:30, the rain had stopped, and the forecast, still had low percentage chance for rain during the morning; and increasing after 1:00, so I decided to set out early.

Leaving the hotel at 6:00, it was still dark and mostly deserted. Normally I hate walking out of cities; but walking so early and it only took a few kilometers to get out of the city. I was walking into the surrounding hills as it got lighter and the sun began to rise. It was a lovely cool morning (in the 50’s) and the countryside/ views were awesome.

The walk today was split between roads and paths, but lovely for most. A couple hours later I arrived in the first small town that had a bar/ café listed as being there. But as I rounded the corner, I could see it was closed as all the shutters were locked down. As I paused in front of the bar and was googling café/ bar near me” the shutters began to rise, as the bar was opening. QUELLE PROVIDENCE!

A nice coffee, croissant and orange juice and I was ready to tackle the rest of this long, mildly challenging day. The difficulty was rated 3 out of 5. And that seems about right. There were frequent climbs and descents, but not too steep or if so, only for a short while.

My guide indicated the alburgue I was staying in was out of the way; and if I wanted to eat dinner, I needed to pick up some food in the last town before the alburgue. There was a LIDL there, and I got a nice packages Caesar chicken salad, some beers, some bread and was off.

Another 4k, and I was nestled in the best appointed alburgue I have seen. There is a lot of food/ drinks/ wine/ beer/ candy in fridge and in a vending machine here, in case pilgrims arrive empty handed. The entire set up is donation, and quite lovely view over the city…with the exception of the less than hot shower, but not a biggie.

It only began raining during the last mile or so; and about 20 minutes after I took the rain cover off my mochila! LOL. I actually felt really good and strong today, and considered going further, but wasn’t sure if the next town had an alburgue, and didn’t want to have to keep going beyond that; and this place, as I said is lovely.

Tomorrow is a little more difficult day; but 4k/ 2 miles shorter.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 17 - Colombres to Llanes - 26k/ 16 miles

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TODAYS VIDEO
Dont forget you can slow this down, so not so dizzying, by clicking on the GEAR icon (settings) when in Youtube

I had the best Mexican meal last night in the lovely little restaurant in Colombres. It was the best mole, I have ever had and such a lovely little place.

Today was my last day on the Camino Del Norte - tomorrow, I will leap ahead a couple of days to Oviedo, where the Camino Primitive begins.

Today was a hard and lovely day, and a bit weird too, but again in a lovely way. I think the Camino Del Norte wanted to kick my butt, physically and emotionally - making sure I got what I came for before I left.

I had an early start, as the alburgue didnt serve breakfast until 8, and I wake normally about 6. I stayed in bed for an hour, then headed out shortly after 7:00. Walking without my morning coffee, is not my choice, but I was able to secure one just a mile or so away.

The morning's walk was lovely and tough, some hills, and the coastline, which was very rocky and uneven, made it a slow go and a challenging one, but the views were spectacular, even with the non-stop misting rain.  I walked along cliffs. I walked through a herd of cows. I climbed several fences and even climbed over a natural stone bridge, carved out by the sea. It was a bit scary, expecially as the waves hitting the cliff walls made a big and resonant boom, sounding like thunder. It was so cool!

The morning was exhausting, I am thinking because of the constant rocky up and downs along the coast, and the uneven footing making concentration important. The non-stop misting rain didnt help either.

A little while later a veer off into town, for a second coffee and a wee bit of breakfast - juice and a croissant with some other pilgrim friends. Then back on the path which went off road again, but it was a dirt path with climbs and descents, and continuing rain. I am not sure why, but I was more tired today while walking, perhaps the first cliff part without any food took its toll. Did not really bonk, but maybe a mini one. Nothing bad or serious and I still made all climbs without problem, just felt sluggish.

It is amusing what happens to me when I walk and my mind wanders...or maybe it gets lost - LOL. Often times, I will have conversations with parts of me, physical (feet, knees, muscles, colon, etc.) or mental (attitude, heart, etc.). Sometimes I'm encouraging (Doing a great job knees!); sometimes I'm a tough coach (Right foot quit whining, I know you're tired and that aint helping!). The conversation with the colon one day was hysterical (Don't be an asshole; you need to keep up your end; etc.). I dont think these are out loud, but sometimes after walking alone a bit; Im not really sure.

Today's version took a weird twist as I began singing out loud, and just making up random lyrics about life and love and adventure and mistakes, and triumphs. It was like my own off broadway musical. It was wonderful to me; but I doubt anyone else. And I wish I had a recording - which would NEVER get shared - LOL!

Later another stop and still sluggish with 4 miles to go. I knew there were a couple miore climbs; so I decided to listen to music for the first time since walking - normally am nervous about phone battery, but I needed the charge and encouragement. So with the help of the Sugar Hill Gang, Cher and a few others was kicked into gear and was moving on. I actually had to slow myself down as I was jamming and was worried I was going to overstress my knees and tendons. LOL.

The rain kept getting harder and I was cold and drenched through and still tired, but lifted by the music when a Art Garfunkel song, Bright Eyes, came on, and I lost it. This song was feautred in the animated film version of my all-time favorite book, "Watership Down".I It is a song about death and love and I walked the last mile and a half in tears with thoughts of dad. I took this pic of his chair before I left; and it being empty fueled my sadness.

I arrived at a great hotel in Llanes, Hotel Don Paco; an amazing 3-star hotel. Similar hotels in the US would likely be several hundred dollars for a room; but on a Sunday night in Spain, I had booked a small single room for $50;. Dripping wet, I longed for a bath, and asked the reception if I could pay for an upgrade to a bigger room with a bath. And without hesitation, she moved me to the top floor,  without an increase. in cost. A very hot bubble bath soon ensued, and I am nestled in for a nap before a little exploration and dinner.

A lovely end to this part of the walk; and I look forward to see whats coming.

Buen Camino

Camino Del Norte - Day 16 - Comillas to Columbres - 29K/ 18 miles

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Today was a lovely, perfect day. Long distance, challenging hills and finally good scenery - ocean and countryside.

The forecast was for rain, but it held off the entire walk and the sun shone thru for the second hal, heating up the climbs, even though only in the 60s.

Was a lovely morning walk out of the small town, and many motorcycle cops passed me and a few ambulances and I thought it was some dignitary ill. But later while on a small road near a golf course, a cop stopped and started yelling at me. I thought I had taken the wrong turn, but he was telling me to move to the other side of the road. I did so and about a minute later 200 cyclists in a pack zoomed by me, There was a 10,000 rider race today. It took me by shock and most of the early packs of racers were by before I thought to get my camera out.

I took a video, but with the internet being poor, this will take some time as will uploading all pics. Likely tomorrow. Hopefully the internet is better tomorrow. See if you can find the lady walking her parrot - you it is in there!

The rest of the day was challenging climbs thru countryside, and

how nice to end a day with the last mile being all up...NOT,

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 15 - Santillana del Mar to Comillas - 0K

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PILGRIM DAY OFF:
I woke to find I had used all the data in my prepaid phone in just 2 weeks here, Was surprised, but have been using a camino mapping app, which if I keep it on is constantly sending and receiving gps data. Also been uploading pics and other crap more than usual, so understand. And the cost is quite cheap. Most Americans I know who come here, use their home phone and pay a daily surcharge - usually more than $10/ day. It is quite easy to buy an "UNLOCKED" phone in the USA  and purchase a sim card/ 30 days access for about $20 total.  I bought a MOTO X smart phone on Amazon and added another $15 today, so still a very cheap option.

The dilemma this morning was what to do without a phone - which means no wifi/ internet access on the road; so none of my apps would work. WTF - NO GOOGLE!?!?!  I have really come to rely on this when getting into towns to find a place to eat, sleep, shop etc.

Funny how only 4 years ago I walked for two months across France, Switzerland and Italy without one piece of technology, Theres something to be said for this. However on this walk, unlike any other I have taken, there are so many alternative paths, and sometimes you will come to a fork and theres an arrow pointing in both directions...again another WTF!

Anyway, a nice challenge to sort out what to do. Since I have become my own pilgrim, and certainly not a PP (Pilgrim Purist) who must walk every single step; I chose to find my way to the nearest ORANGE Phone shop, wasn't far away and a local bus was coming at 9:45 in the morning - allowing me an extra bit of chill time. Normally on the road between 7:30 and 8.

But local transport can be tricky - and this bus wasn't marked and being in a tourist town, there were tons of busses coming and going. Lucky for me Im a pilgrim and the Spanish are exceptionally kind and helpful to us. Often cars will honk and give a thumbs up as they pass. So a half hour ride, a quick stop at the tourist office to find a map on paper and directions to nearest ORANGE shop and all handled.

Since the bus back wasn't for three hours, I opted for the luxury of a cab ride to todays walking destination, Comillas, and since I was going luxury, I thought Id check out hotels on Booking.com while I was enjoying a lovely café con leche and croissant in the city square; and found a 3-star gem for $50. SOLD

So the afternoon, spent napping, reading, a lil jaunt around the city, an early dinner...all relaxing and good prep for a 29k day tomorrow. Sadly afternoon showers in the forecast. However I will take 60 and rainy over 100+ temps that are in Dallas right now. Feeling for my peeps.

Interesting Camino Bathroom fact for me anyway - was surprised how much I peed today (LOL); when I walk, I think my body uses every bit of fluid I intake. I think I peed more in one go today, than I did all last week, In fact, I was starting to get bored and antsy, it was taking so long - LOL!

Buen Camino!