DAY 44: Bolsena to Vitterbo (20km - 12 miles - 623 total)

 Before we left the Convent we were staying in for dinner, Sister Josephina grabbed me and pulled me aside, and using two fingers she kept putting them to her mouth and taking them away.  As the italians are known for hand gestures, I asked if she was offering me a wish for a good trip. She looked like a scornful mother, she was warning me not to smoke in the room - which I had NOT done, but evidently the smell traveled. It was an amusing and charming exchange.

Last night I had a farewell dinner with Giorgio and Teresa, the Italian couple that I met the day I left Sienna (and raced the thunderstorm).We have been traveling to the same cities and staying in the same Ostellos for the past five days, but as I need to reach Rome by Saturday, I needed to do more mileage today. It was nice, and true to form, Giorgio snuck off and paid the bill.

Today was a relatively easy walk from Bolsena to Montefiascone, and I wish I could have stayed there - it was really lovely, and guess what...ON TOP OF A HILL!!! I think the people who plan the routes want pilgrims to suffer or earn their testimonium. I did mention that former pilgrims were honored with a place in heaven - right? Something like reserved seating I think. Also one day I passed a cross that indicated if you said the Lords Prayer and an Ave maria, you got 28 indulgences - which I read to mean something like 28 "Get out of jail free" cards. I have been trying to think of some good sinning I can use these on!!!

Anyway, I chose to take the bus from Montefascone to Vitterbo (about 10 miles), and again am happy with the choice, as Vitterbo is even bigger than Sienna and would have been a nightmare of a walk thru industrial and suburban areas to reach the center. I am already ready to leave. It is a lovely walled city, though not as lovely as Sienna, but it is just too busy - to the degree that you cannot possibly greet everyone and so no one greets anyone and most people look angry.

Tomorrow is another long day of 28km, but with only four more days of walking and a new route thanks to my friends in Radicofani, it promises to be a pretty route thru forests and by a lago (lake).

Sorry no pics, but am on an old computer with no USB port. Ciao!