DAYS 26 - 29: Fidenza > Pontremoli (91km - 46 miles - 400Total)

Sorry for so long, but no internet in awhile, but a GREAT FEW DAYS!!!

Amazing pics and views: https://viafrancigenawithmichael.shutterfly.com/pictures

FRI JUNE 13: Fidenza to Medasson; A beautiful days walk after an interezsting night...the hills are back

and I love ith it was a challenging day. Last night I had a beautiful room in a monastery facing west, so after sunset I opened windo to let in the air, but within a gfew minutes was attacked by mosquito, so decided I would try and face the night with window closed. Two hours into sleep I awoke sweating and very hot, so I thought maybe I open just a little...another hour, no sleep, so I think I brave the mosquitos. As soon as I open the window and set back down,,,within seconds a storm blew in and cooled off my room...MAYBE I DO HAVE PILGRIM OR COQWBOY MOJO!!!! It was so cool listening to all the shutters bang against the walls, etc.

Later in day I was forced to do some CIRQUE DE SOLEIL BALANCING ACT at the mens toilet again...I JUST DONT GET IT...but I scored well!!!!!

 

SAT JUNE 14: Medesano to Cassio:

This was my longest day yet at 32 km, about 20 miles. The morning was good and I made amazing time, but the afternoon was all climbing and I had not eaten well or prepared good for this. One stage had a stone stream bed rising up at the steepness of a stairwell for over a mile...imagine going up a mile of steps!!!

When i got here, i was taken a few steps and then stopping,,,it was crazy, and I realized more than physically tired, I was PSYCHING MYSELF OUT...I kept looking up and thinking I CANT DO THIS. When i realized this, I was sitting looking out over 50 - 75 miles of Italy that I had already walked through and I thought to get my music player. The song that came on was a spiritual song called "I just cant give up now"  whose first line is "there will be mountains that I need to climb", I almost cried. at the serendipity. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37PCbh9KppA ). A huge shout out to my colleague at brookhave Jason Cates for pushing me to bring my music, when i told him I just wanted to listen to me....now I realize that often what is in front of me is not what causes me the biggest problems, its whats going on inside of me.

Later at the top was a beautiful bar, with a woman who treatemet me as her child and made sure I had food and drink, a lovely salad and beer. Then even more fun, as I began walking the last 4 miles to the village I was staying in, I saw ahead of me two hikers, a little woman and tall man. I could tell they were tired as the woman tried to flag down cars and then they almost veered off the road when it was close to where we needed to go, as I came upon them, they turned around and said, "Are you Michael Bailey?"

What the hell???? It seems they had been following me by a couple of days and seen my entries in the quwst books, where I always sign with a lil smiley face with cowboy hat and the label of cowyboy pellegrinni, They had also met several people I had met along the way. Annette and Charlie are from England and have done may walks, we would walk together for the next few days as well as Sigrid from germany, who we would meet later that night in the Ostello in Cassio...which has another fiunny story!  I forgot how wonderful it is to have company and would greatly enjoy the next few days.

SUN JUNE 15: Cassio to Cissa Pass:

The weather was overcast and rainy all day, evidently, Northern Italy is experiencing floods...OOH LAA LAA what an experience. so I stuck to the road, and truly did not mind it. It was a bit cold, but I like walking in the rain and there was little traffic. I AM ALSO NOW IN TUSCANY!!!

Sigrid and I met up in a bus stop and sat out a hard rain and later a bar in the afternoon, and she told me a funny story about the house manager from our place the night before. Andrea was so kind and had tons of food for guests to prepare on their own and then pay on the honor system. Sigrid and Annete made a lovely

salad and pasta, we had wine and it was lovely and fiun to be with pilgrims again. It also was the second night I could sleep well with windows open, cool breeze and no mosquitos. in fact last night I got cold!!

Anyway Sigriod saw our house manager having a lively conversation in the garden with this old lady manaquin that he had sitting in a chair....she said it was very odd...remind you of anyone...maybe NORMAN BATES!!!!!! Glad she did not tell me the night before. Again we all end up in another lovely hostile and they prepare us dinner which was wonderful!

MONDAY June 16: Cissa Pass to Pontremoli:

Another overcast day. An easy walk energy wise as it was all downhill on road surfaces, but again tough on the legs. But it eneded in a beautiful village Pontremoli that was incredibly charming and Sigrid, Charlie and Annette and I shared what I believe is our final meal as they move onto to visit family. A great few days!

DAY 25: June 12: Fiorenzuola - Fidenza (20km; 13 miles, 354 total)

Yesterday with a lot of afternoon time, I decided to plan the rest of my time and decided I will NOT be able to walk all the way to Rome, not the way i wish too...that is I dont want to walk 20 - 30 miles per day. I will end each day exhausted and be moving to fast to enjoy. So I have chosen to slow down through Tuscany and skip some sections later as I near Rome, thinking these to be more hot.

I pass a lovely villa with a pool and so want to stay here a day or two, or even just 30 minutes to swim and relax...I imagine a cafe by the pool....This morning it feels not as hot and the walk is lovely again with a few hills and some paths that are not busy highways. The day is lovely and quickly I see a range of hills and small mountains, called the little Alps (Alpinees)



I also am forced to use the MANs TOILET in a bar this morning, which to me feels like I am in the gym as you must squat over the hole...I dont quite understand why women get a seat and we do not. Up until now, in the country cafes, I have simply snuck into the ladies one.

 I dont walk too far and am in the city before noon. i hope to find a washing machine and de-stink again.I feel recharged after a couple down days, 

I know it is good to be alone and yet am lonely too, It is a dance I do every day. And last night was wonderful, just enjoying the people and the place. I imagine people I know living this way, I easily see my father, who was a mailman sliding into a cafe and joking with locals, or my mom with her sisters or friends.

I like this picture and it makes me less lonely, thinking of home and here in some weird mixed up story....

DAY 24: June 11: Piacenza - Fiorenzueola (23km - 14 miles - 341 total)

Yesterday after arriving in Piancenza and getting a little internet, I checked into the Pilgrim Hotel, and was given a roommate, which turned out to be the blessing I needed to get a little renewed after the night before sleep and crappy day walking. Andra is a 29 year old pilgrim from the Mountain region above Milan, he restores churches and homes and is walking the opposite way...Toward >St Bernard Pass. He spoke no english, but we had a nice afternoon and meal....and reminded be of the blessings that can come, when I am in my worst temperament. i was sorry to see him go the other direction come the morning.

Today was another crappy day of walking, I would have been happy to take the train 14 miles entirely along a busy highway. IT SUCKED. I walked about 10 or 11, then got on the bus.
 Another new source of anxiety as this is a different system, but no hitches...all went well.

The best think that happened is I saw a hill and NO RISE FIELDS for past 2 days! Though my body looks like I have the measles from so many mosquito bites. San Rocco is Patron Saint oif Pilgrims, giving up wealth to travel and help the ill and poor...in his later life he was infected with something so supposedly would reveal his inflinction...maybe I should too?

In Fiorenzuola, I looked around the city, tried to get some inidan food, but the lunch crowd ate it, and then had an incredible evening walk that I imagine will linger in my mind when I think of Italy....

I walk out my door about 9:15pm, the sun has set, but it is not dark. The temperature has dropped early and it is warm but comfortable. The yellow street lights bath the night in an amber glow. Starlings dart and chase each other in the sky I can see above me between the buildings. I pass a little cafe nested in the church, it a grapevine enclosure with an older couple and then 3 little ladies, each having a conversation of their day. I turn the corner to see a young couple eyeing the merchandise in a home store. The wife is scanning the merchandise for every detail, meanwhile the young man shifts back and forth, I think wanting to gget to the cafe for a biera or home to see football (not US football). Arouns another corner, a larger cafe is full of older men sitting in groups of 2's and 3's, teasing, smoking, drinking laughing....

There is somthing about the life here that breathes connection. It seems most of life takes place outside even in the heat and revolves around connections to your friends, your family your neighbors. I feel like we miss some of this in the US and that simply the sturcutre of living here feeds connection. Maybe I am just a bit dreamy tonight, but I go to be with a million thoughts.

It is hard to sleep in the heat and I wonder in this hot humid place, why air conditioning is still a rarety in hmes and even businesses. It intriques me, but then I think, maybe we americans are too soft. We say if we give a child everything, they will become a spoiled brat. Arent we in some ways doing the same as adults...trying to fix every discomfort and inconvenience as soon as possible. Maybe life should have a bit of discomfort, just to keep us real...and NOT BRATS.

The picture to the right is of a gas station and bar...thought it was maybe a little bit of a mixed message---eh?

DAY 23; June 10: St Christina - Piancenza (18km - 12 miles - 317 total)

So today started out bad and I lost all my energy for the walk. Bad nights sleep ( the last place I stayed was over teen center) followed by the first 4 miles through tall wet grass, I was so annoyed and soppy , especially as I had no coffee yet.

This only got worse when I stepped in a hole; I sank below my knee is some culvert and am extremely lucky that I did not get hurt. So today my internal WHINING METER is going berserk.

I want to go home. I want to be clean. I want clean clothes. I want a hamburger on the grill. I want air conditioning.

WOW I am such a whiner. About this time, I am sitting in a piazza in front of a church inChignolo Po, and its obvious kids are gathering for some sort of field trip - looks like a beach or pool outing. Anyway, I can tell I am a subject of interest...some alien visitor. A five year old boy works up the courage to approach me, and i think asks me what I am. When I tell him an American and a cowboy from Texas, he runs back to his friends and I am engulfed by a few kids wanting to know what this pelligrini stuff is about...and wheres my horse and gun.

Later I had already decided to train the second half od day as it is into a large city with 12 miles with mo breaks just industiral areas...so a light day except for the crappy start. Pretty fancy train station above - eh?

A demani...

Day 22: June 9: Pavia to Santa Christini e Bissone

 The say all roads lead to Rome, which I understand, but evendentially not ALL TRAINS.

Yesterday I chose to hang out in Pavia a bigger city to recover from my heat stroke (like the Italians I like to exxagerate), update me blog and then take a train out of the city stopping 8 - 12 km before my next stop St Christina.

Some say using a train is cheating (Sandra, I wont mention names if you dont!), but for me theis pilgrimmage is not just a spiritual journey, or a physical journey, it is also a cultural one. I wanted to meet Switzerland and mainly Italy. So taking public transport is a huge way of life here, and in some ways more of a challenge than walking with a guide.

I must be able to comnmunicate clearly and understand the responses. Where am i going? Which train? What platform? Is there on train direct or do I have to connect? Each a lòesson in anxiety.

So in the station, I get it pretty clearly that my train leaves Bannerio 1 at 13:30. No problem....one would think. But as I sat on this train for 30 minutes, I realized I should be there by now and next thing I know, I ended up in Milan and in the subway....OH SHIESHA!

I hopped off, and thought momentarily about staying, but knew I had a reservation, so I went to a automatic train machine...MORE ANXIETY and puchased a ticket back to Pavia and the train arrived within 10 m inutes, and so back to the beginning I went.

When I got there I asked the same questions, but for the next train to St Christina and I learned there are two platform 1...1 and 1Trezzo. Mine was the 1-trezzo - which also happened to be behind contruction fencing making it look out of order.

Anyway off to St Christina, this time no hitches and I just take the train all the way. I am actually quite proud of my mastering the accident! I also stopped by the Basilica of St Michael...yup that be me!

I spend the night in another Pilgrim Hostile (FREE) but though the peeps were nice it was over a sort of teen rec center which didnt close untill 11 and teens are loud...not a nice night.

DAY 19 - 21: Vercelli > Pavia (80km; 60miles.305 total)

Day 19: Vercelli - Robbio: Super Pellegrinni
When I last left you I had lost my guide and though the way is marked pretty good, it is not perfect, so without a guide it is easier toget lost and also you have no idea when the next town is - important for water and food and sleeping.

So when I left the Abbey in Vercelli, I went to the only otyher stop I made, the office of tourism and luckily it was there....GRATZIE MIA DIO! havingto wait for the office to open at 9:00, I was getting late start, but also realizing Vercelli is a big city, I wanted to try and find internet, which I di ...these were my last postings. So after this I got a really late start 11:00. But I was fully charged, and though a bit hot was not too bad. And bought a new pair of STYLISH ITALIAN SUNGLASSES for $5.

Having realized my limited time is now going to make me step up my mileage each day, I quicken my pace: but my body is now stronger and I did 18 km in just over 4 hours....2 weeks ago this would take me 6 hours.

The way was good and only a bit hot, but when walking through fields without shade, it can be rough. Thanks to my teaching colleague Jason Cates for pushing me to bring music. Todays walk was mostly boring. So the music helped me keep my pace...and my sanity. I was also stopped by a young girl on a farm who wanted to know everything about me, especially when she learned I am from Texcas. My Italian is not this good and boy could she talk alot!

I arrive in a small village of Robbio and am given free room above City Hall. And no I was NOT ARRESTED, though this might be an idea for another free nights room and meals. It was not a pretty room, but the price was right and allowed me to go early the next day. With having the town clock outsidemy window was also a GREAT ALARM CLOCK...maybe too great!

DAY 20 June 7 Robbio - Tramello. So another day of farmlands...ahhh. Rice fields aplenty and the mosquitos seemed intriqued by thisnew american cuisine. I can just imagine the conversation:

"Hey dude, have you tried this new american food?"
"Si, amoro Texas BarB Molto bene!!!"

The tractors are interesting for these water fields with wheels that are like gears.

My pace is good and villages tend to be about 3 - 4 miles apart giving me nice breaks. As it is Saturday, the cafes are full of old men and several times, I stop and hang with the fellas, but only for short pauses.

I take a longer break and nap outside a cemetary sleeping on a shaded wall. Thecemetaries are interesting...morelike stylish town homes...maybe they dont bury people here, or maybe these are for the richer folks, not really sure.

My sister Debbie could not make this walk for sure, as little gecko lizards are everywhere, I must scare about 30 . 40 each day, and today a large black snake scurried across my path just outside Mortara, he was so fast I could not get his picture.

...

I arrive in tramello very tired and decide to have a panache before I find my room for the night. A òlittle old man, Carlo rides up on his bicycle which is painter VI FRANCIGINA and is the welcome wagon, he stamps my pilgrim book, finds me a room - also for free above a local bar. Molto gentile!

As it is Saturday night, the bar is lively with Kareokee, though I choose not to participate, dont want tointerfere with US Italian relations.

Another good fast day, but please NO MORE RICE FIELDS. I think I have donated enough blood!!!!

DAY 21: Tremello - Pavia: 
 How exciting, guess what i find today...MORE FFRICKIN RICE FIELDS!!!
I may never eat rice again. i am in the state of Pavia which guess what is italy's and europes largest producer of rice...I could have got that question on Jeopardy without having read it today...OH LA LA!

 Today is a longer day at 30km- about 20 miles, but I am cranking out the miles in the morning going over 4 in the morning with my first stop at a basilica for a young deaf-dumb girl who took shelter from a storm in a shelter which had a fresco (ainting) of the virgin mary. She appeared to the girl , healed her and told her to tell everyone to build a memorial there to protect the region. Cool!

Its funny who comes with me on this journey and I mean with so much quiet time, my thoughts flow freely, and an unexpected companion is my 10th grade biology teacher and cross country coach, Mr. Wright. I guess i used to run on my toes, and he would say, "Bailey, are you a dancer or a runner?"  "I'm a runner sir!" Throughout the day I hear this, Bailey, heel toe" and it reminds me to use all of my foot, lessening the strain on my achilles tendon.

Later in the morning I still make great progress, finishing 2\3 of the way by 11, then the heat kicks in. italy is having an EARLY HEAT WAVE. The afternoon drags as I am walking in mostly sun and some on streets which amplifies the heat. It takes me another 4 hours to finish the day. The last 4 miles is by a large river where the other side is beaches with people swimming and no access on my side...it is TORTURE!!!!

I eventually find a BEACH BAR and stumble in for rest, later also rest under a motorway with some cool graffiti.

I arrive in Pavia about 3 totally exhausted and find the Hostile will not open until 6;30, I can bearly stand I am so tired, so I go into the church next to it, and it is cool insode and I lay on a pew and fall asleep. I am woken about 30 minutes later by akind lady who says they will get me a room now, no waiting. Unfortunately it is a festival weekend and all the rooms are full, but they invite me to a church barbecue and find me a room next door, unfortunately not free, but such is life.

The heat wave is intense with it being very humid, I am not sure how I will make the long mileage in such heat and am a bit frustrated. I think I may try and take a day or two break and find my italian friends from my walk across Spain (Gino and Pierra run a dairy farm and were so kind, and live within 50 miles of where I am.

Wish me luck!
PS Dont tell anyone, but I miss the montains!

DAY 18: June 5: Issogne - Pont St Martin (20 km - 13 miles - 245 total)

A lovely start then I am on my way. It is a beautiful walk, with two exceptions - LONG STRAIGHT WAYS.

It is strange, one would think that a straight road is better....less miles as it is direct. But as walking is physical, there is a mental component and when one walks on straight ways it ooften feels like a tereadmill, that is that I am getting NOWHERE. So it is more frutrating and tiring. I think there might be a life lesson here beyond walking, but I know not what.

Today one is a long walk through a vineyard with a castle ahead, the other is a long street into Pont St Marting. The weather is lovely and I pass two old villages (Hone and Bard).

I also walk on roads that are 1000s of years old. Roads to and from Rome. I know this dramatically increased the spead of travel and was very important in the mountains where they put ruts in the road to help wagons not go over the sides. It is amazing t thin of th many travelers whose footsteps i walk in.

At id morning I check my overall plan and realize my guide does not have the same schedule and I am 3 days behind my overall plan. I decide to bit the bullet and make a major leap forward of 40 miles---a train from Pnt St Martin to Vercelli.

It is weird to think so much can change in such a short distance, though for me walking, it seems o much. I feel sad as I watch the mountains slide away so quickly and flat lands appear with rice fields everywhere...I do not mind missing mosquitos which are frequently present. I do feel sad to have missed >Ivrea.

I arrive in Vercelli an bustinling city of about 50,000 and wonder how a city of this size can have so much more vibrancy that Dallas with millions of people. Life is in the streets here and I think we miss something in not having such a community living. Sidealks are wide and lined with trees to create shade in this warm region.

I stay in a local convernt here and the administrator is a course woman, Angela, who I immdeiately like. We become AMICOS (friends). In the morning she will serve no one coffee until I get it...funny...MAMMA MIA!

The convent is run down, but provides a large dinner and vino. Here there is a spanish, a suisse and a polish pilgrim besides me. I find it not so easy to be friendly with the pole as she makes constant grunting noises as she eats and has abigger beard growth than I do. I try and find a calm presence, but find myself internally irritated...and know this is a chance to grow.....

In the morning I realize I have lost my gudie and believe I left it in the Tourism office....OH SHIT!!!
I hope it is there. Without it I know not what I will do.....

Time to go before it gets too hot!