Camino Del Norte - Day 14 - Santa Cruz de Bezane to Santillana del Mar - 24.4k

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Last night another wonderful family style dinner in a lovely Albergue with a lovely host - which makes all the difference. The food was good and then some insight into the trail for today. Two main points were that the "original" trail is long - up to 40k and that there is a river that needs to be crossed and the nearest bridge is for trains.

The train bridge is forbidden/ prohibited to cross; but how they explained this was amusing. "Walking on the bridge is forbidden, but you can do it if you like. " LOL This actually to me is a very open and mature philosophy. The idea being, we have warned you not to; and if you choose to do it, know you are responsible. But there is a train station on each side of the bridge so you can get on, ride for 2 minutes and then get off. This description was also amusing. "If you get on, and no man comes the ride is free. If he comes you pay him 1.65. This is the system."


The day began with a nice breakfast - light as usual, but I had coffee, so this makes me happy. It was raining as I left the Albergue and continued non-stop thru the morning.  I chose to take the train and after walking about an hour arrived at the train station at the same exact moment as the train, but was on the wrong side and could not cross, while the train was there, so I had to wait 40 minutes. Not a big deal, and I did meet some pilgrims from prior days as they got off the train.

The first part of the walk after train was countryside, but overlooking a large highway. From there it go worse as it was raining and we went thru large industrial area. At the end of the walk, it became a little more rural, which was nice.

We ended in Santillana del Mer - an old medieval village that is truly lovely, but feels more EPCOT/ Disney than Europe, as it is filled with tourist shops and restaurants.  I went into the Museum of Torture and the Spanish Inquisition - Which of course nobody expected (ba dum bum)! And was disappointed as I was really more interested in the Inquisition and history, and all that was there was descriptions and exhibits of torture devices.

I am hoping for a nice dinner and an early night in the Convent Alburgue - where there are only two beds per room, and right now I have a single. Fingers crossed it stays this way!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 13: Guemes to Santa Cruz De Bezana – 24km

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Last night the alburgue in Guemes shared with us its history. It was the birth place of 80 year old former priest, Padre Ernesto. An unconventional man of the people. In his first community assignment, he was high in the mountains in a mining community. As such, he not only was their priest, but also worked in the mines. His life was one of service, travel and service. The alburgue which operates totally in donations, funds not only this beautiful place, but also two missions – one a mission for local youth and a mission for the poor people of the southern hemisphere. There also is an outreach to the local prison, whose wall I walked by today.

Today was another overcast day with a wonderful 8km walk. First trhu countryside, and then along cliffs beside the ocean followed by a boat ride to a large city, Santander. I almost got off the boat at the wrong stop - which would have added another 10 miles to today - YIKES!

Most stayed in the city, I suppose wanting to explore, but I am not big on cities along the walk, and also wanted to get more miles under my belt today, both for my schedule and also to keep training for when I split onto the Primitive path.

The first couple kilometers in the city were nice, but to get out of a large city is always difficult, and usually boring and long. Today was no different. From shopping district, to industrial zone to train tracks, the second half was nothing to write about until something weird happened.

I was walking beside a house, and a large friendly German Shephard stuck his head thru the fence. I greeted him and he walked away, but as I was walking along the street, he approached me again and dropped a stone for me. Now this may not sound weird, but pilgrims usually carry stones with them, which they leave at Santiago or somewhere along the way. I had planned to do this, and have done it before, but did not pick any up. Since this is so symbolic and so weird, I felt I need to take his stone to Santiago. WEIRD – EH? Maybe he is a reincarnated pilgrim????

Another long day under my belt with an interesting day tomorrow, I hope.

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 12 - Laredo to Guemes - 30K

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Today was the Disneyland of walks.

An early rise, and surprisingly the hotel had breakfast open early, so got a coffee, juice and some toast before leaving, without going out of my way.

Then I had a lovely 4k walk along the "boardwalk" of Laredo with a glorious shining sun. I had a look at some nice prospective oceanfront condos - just need some investor help - ANY TAKERS???

Normally a sunny day is something I usually am a little fearful of during walking (HEAT), but today the weather was in DISNEY-SYNC! Lovely and sunny along the beach with wonderful cool breeze; then later a wee bit overcast, cool and breezy. This really helped on this longest day yet.

Seems I'm becoming a record breaker.

After the boardwalk, there was a pilgrim ferry across a narrow strait to a town on the other side; a fun way to make up some miles and avoid walking AROUND!!! The ferry lighted 10 minutes later in another lovely town and I thought about having second breakfast, but as I'm a pilgrim and not a hobbit, I opted to keep moving.

A brief walk thru town, then up to the beach for an amazing (and a wee bit scary) climb along a mountain-goat path on a beautiful and high cliff. It was exhilarating and steep, a bit slippery, and the couple of downs on the way up, were nerve-racking. The views were lovely, and the descent on the other-side tough on body (feet, ankles, and knees) and focus.

But the landing was a lovely sandy beach, that I walked along for 2k - amazing and lovely. I stopped for a rest here and realized that there was a primo alburgue (pilgrim hotel) a little further (5miles) than I had planned to walk, but I decided to do it anyway.

The rest of the day was long, tough and a beautiful walk thru the countryside. I had strong and consistent energy, but a lot was along roads, so my feet and legs were vibrating and aching most of afternoon. It often looked like rain; and was a little nervous at one point, but I turned the corner saw MISS KITTY hanging on a house, and my friend Kerri assures me that when I see this all is well, so continued on!

A lovely bar just a mile before end, tempted me to stop for a "radler", a german concoction of beer and sprite or orange soda, that is a lovely refreshing cocktail in summer, It was a wise choice, as I had not breaked for a couple hours, and my feet were about to revolt. Having Salomon

Unfortunately, there was a steep climb at the end, but it wasn't long, and I was in no danger of bonking. The alburgue here (pilgrim hotel) is reputed to be the RITZ-CARLTON of Alburgues. I judge it is probably run by pilgrims for pilgrims; so it is set up to serve our needs; and there is no fee; only an ask to make a donation before you leave - according to what you can afford, and what your heart dictates. Did I mention this includes dinner too.

What a great ending to an awesome day!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 11 - Castro-Urdiales to Laredo - 28k

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With ten days under my belt, I have been feeling good the last few days walking and wanted to see how far I could push the mileage, especially as the Primitive path is coming up soon and has longer, harder days.

Today was again a great walking day with temperatures in the 60's and overcast. It has been rainy the last few afternoons/ nights, so the off-road tracks were pretty muddy and I stayed on the road for a couple shortcuts, but still racked up my longest day yet. I felt tired, but good at the end and no bonking!

There was a nice Eucalyptus forest, that I imagine on hot days is a way cool experience. I still find the transitions along the coast strange. Yesterday there was a huge factory on a gorgeous ocean-front cliff. Today I walked through large cities on the ocean, farmland, and untouched nature. The sad part of today was the major highway that paralleled closely, so even when the views were awesome, the sound pollution was horrible.

Later ended up in ocean-front city of Laredo, where one of the coolest things was the patterned etched into the sidewalks that gave the impression that they were not flat; so cool, unless drunk, I guess.

I also had a wee bit of bad luck as my phone died about 3 blocks from my hotel, and I was not really sure of the address or name - thank goodness for a friend that gave me a recharger/ flashlight for Christmas which was on the trip!

BUen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 10 - Pobena to CastroUrdiales - 16km

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TODAYS VIDEO

Had a great pilgrim dinner again last night surrounded by many pilgrims from all over - France, Germany, Spain, Argentina, Peru - too many places to count.

Today, I am back in the saddle so to speak. After a little pilgrim holiday to find Dragonstone; followed by a day of public transport to get back on the Camino (Bus >> Metro >> Bus), I am walking again,.

Along the way, several ladies tried to tell me to turn back when I was nearing a tunnel as it was closed; but while I was trying to understand what they were saying, five teenage boys jogged by and into the tunnel, and did not return. So I chose to go around the PROHIBITED FENCE - like the boys and continue on. It was a cool adventure that kept me on edge - of the cliff literally!

Close to the end, there was lovely Bagpipe and drum music. I took a video with my phone - not sure if the sound will come thru!

I feel stronger, and though today was mixed with lovely ocean front path and a few climbs; it is not too far, so I end early at at my hotel - a Hotel and Spa. There is a swimming pool, Jacuzzi and sauna all inside; and I have a massage scheduled for 4:00.

I am not sure if I am a really smart pilgrim, or maybe a BAD ONE!

I have decided to return to Albergues tomorrow to meet more pilgrims, though I have met quite a few today.

Buen Camino..

DAY 8: Pilgrim Holiday ?? - Bakio/ San Juan de Gastelugotxe - Dragonstone - 15k

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What does a pilgrim do on his rest day?
He walks from sea level 4 miles over a large hill and 4 miles back - all to see DRAGONSTONE!


The TV Version

Real Life - San Juan de Gastelugotxe

This morning began with often one of the big challenges abroad - using public transportation. It did not seem too difficult, the bus station (??) was a short 15 minute walk, I knew the bus to get on (3518), I knew the departure time (10:30) but when I arrived at Plaza Mayua, I found a big circle and different buses landed and departed at different places. There were actually electronic signs, but when in new situation - all is hard to find. So I GOOGLEd it - and low and behold, google walked me to the right stop, I almost angered a line of people there as I did not realize they were queued up for the bus and went to the front to board bus. Driver pointed to line and I got the idea. 2 Euros and a half hour later I am in Bakio, my days destination of sorts.

I had emailed with hotel day before about arriving a little before the noon check-in and all seemed good. I called her when I was here at 11:15; but no answer. Several calls and texts later still nothing after 2 hours; so I asked bar next store if they would watch my backpack, packed a light sack and went off to find Dragon Stone. This site used is actually an island off the North of Spain with a church (not castle) on top. It was a 4 mile walk there and back; 2 miles uphill to get above Dragonstone and then down 2 miles to it.

With a light pack and a week of heavy pilgrimming, it was an easy day. And a highlight was that I was not winded on any of the climbs. OK I had only a light day pack and an overcast; cool day. But I still loved walking past heavily winded tourists, by keeping a steady pace. See I am getting my pilgrim feet!

Don't you see the resemblance -
YOU KNOW NOTHING JON SNOW!

Walking along the beach of this town - am surprised that there seems so little life here. It is a beach town, with loads of condos near the shore, but there are few shops, few restaurants and hardly any people. Its a Friday afternoon in May. And even many of the condos look like relics from Post War Eastern Europe reconstructions. Beach front is so primo in the USA, it is hard to get my head around this. But I guess thats somewhat always the case with understanding other cultures; we first have to turn off our own lense. BUT STILL WEIRD TO ME,

Back to the hotel, a quick call, some lovely tapas and beer at bar next door and I am stowed away for the night, Tomorrow is another transit day to make it back en route, and then I begin my regular march again, now a day behind. But no matter, I catch a ride on a dragon (or bus) and will be in Santiago by June 17!

Buen Camino!

Camino Del Norte - Day 7 - Larrabetzu to Bilbao - 15km

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NO VIDEO - boring walk along streets in industrial area until end, so decided not to film

Last night was great evening in B&B. House lady was great - did my laundry, excellent cook. I am eating so much.

Had great dinner with a Canadian lady hiking alone for a week from Vancouver, and a guy from London, about to embark on a week long motorcycle tour with buds thru France and back to the UK. Way too much wine and a late night, made for a slow and late start today, but this was the day for it!

Short walking day; into Bilboa and hotel early.  Awesome hotel with penthouse river view room and close by Guggenheim Museum,

Visited Guggenheim - some really wild and weird Chinese stuff going on. (no pics allowed.)

Off tomorrow for Game of Thrones sight-seeing walk to Dragonstone.

Buen Camino!